Just fitted used volvo parts,i.e fog lights and dash switch, but the fog lights do not work any help would be great thank you Volvo S40 1997 the foglights dont work and the fuse has burnt out ive been told it maybe the central control module is there a cheaper way of fixing the fault without replacing this equipment
SOURCE: volvo s40, loosing power
if you have over 125k miles on it chances are your about time for a new catalytic convertor... can cause a rotten burnt smell... lack of power.. and even a stall... or no start
SOURCE: Missing Fuses, Volvo S40
Where is the fuse located for the 12 volt accessory plug in the front passenger compartment?
SOURCE: Where is the fuel filter in a Volvo S40 2005
Yes that is correct. The only filter is inside the fuel tank, and as I recall its a non exchangeable filter. It just gets replaced with the fuel pump when it goes bad
SOURCE: 2001 volvo s440 1.9t
Volvo Radiator, Thermostat and Sensors
Your cooling
system's temperature controls include all coolant temperature sensors,
Volvo thermostat, Volvo radiator or expansion tank cap, cooling fan(s)
and fan clutch (if equipped). These cooling system parts function
primarily independent of the engine but control the engine either
through cooling or by sending control signals to your Volvo's
electronic systems.
The Volvo thermostat is a spring-loaded
valve that opens and closes based on the temperature of the coolant
flowing through it. A high temperature reading followed by a drop to
normal temperature (or a continuously low temperature) is a common
first sign of a sticking Volvo thermostat. However, many other
conditions may cause these symptoms, so you need to know how to
eliminate each possibility.
The Volvo radiator or expansion
tank cap is also a spring-loaded valve reacting to system pressure. It
serves to maintain proper system coolant level at predetermined
pressures. It must always be replaced with an exact replacement cap
with the same pressure setting. Never use other caps except for
short-term emergencies!
A belt-driven fan blade for pulling
air through the Volvo radiator is usually on the Volvo water pump
pulley and should have a fan clutch to control it. The fan clutch
allows the fan to turn with the belt at low engine speed and
"free-wheel" at higher speeds. A bad fan clutch either doesn't allow
the fan to spin at low speed (overheating in traffic) or doesn't allow
it to free-wheel at high speed (potential overheating on highway or
reduced gas mileage).
An electric fan can be either by
itself (usually front-wheel drive) or auxiliary (used with a mechanical
fan). Both types are controlled via a temperature sensor - in the Volvo
radiator or upper Volvo radiator hose or on the Volvo thermostat or
Volvo water pump housing. This sensor is usually an on/off type switch
with a fixed temperature setting. (Some vehicles may have 2-3 settings
for multi-speed fans.) This sensor is commonly called an "auxilliary
fan switch".
Other common temperature sensors are: 1) gauge
sender (variable output); 2) warning light sender (on/off type); 3)
lambda and/or fuel injection sensor(s) (variable to control fuel
injection settings); 4) thermo-time switch (cold start valve control).
Your Volvo may have other sensors as well.
Temperature
control is critical to both performance and emission control.
Unfortunately, this system is the most difficult to troubleshoot
without proper equipment and diagrams. It's even more difficult with
computers that adjust timing, idle speed, vacuum and fuel delivery
automatically to make up for potentially faulty temperature sensor
signals.
Maintenance of your cooling system sensors is
virtually impossible since there's nothing really to "maintain".
Keeping them clean both internally (coolant replacement) and externally
(engine cleaning) is the best way to ensure trouble-free driving.
Checking and replacing all parts at the factory-recommended time or
mileage limits helps as well
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