Front coolant cap brocken

There should be bleed screws on the hoses if it doesnt self bleed, usually small black plastic circular disks with a flat screw head in the center. Run the car to temperature and release them slowly and only keep them a couple of threads open and you will see steam, keep it open until coolant starts to come out then close, do this to them all. If it doesnt have bleed screws I usually start the car with the radiator or expansion cap off and squeeze the hoses by hand, you will hear it gurgling as the air is replaced by coolant, keep working the hoses until they feel full of coolant. Replace the cap and run the engine at high rpm for about 30 secs. Hope it helps.

OVERHEATING

Physically look in the radiator under the cap(if one exsist's) when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. (never overfill the overflow)After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap. Also, if you have even a tiny coolant leak anywhere in the system, air will get drawn in, instead of coolant from the overflow.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it. Or installed BACKWARDS.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.
Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.

Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

Physically look in the radiator under the cap(if one exsist's) when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. (never overfill the overflow)After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap. Also, if you have even a tiny coolant leak anywhere in the system, air will get drawn in, instead of coolant from the overflow.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.
Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it

Physically look in the radiator under the cap(if one exsist's) when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. (never overfill the overflow)After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap. Also, if you have even a tiny coolant leak anywhere in the system, air will get drawn in, instead of coolant from the overflow.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.
Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it

Normally, you shouldn't have to bleed the cooling system but, there are two bleed valves. (these are the most logical locations)One is just above the water pump, and the other is on the thermostat housing. They are really small, and due to the age of your car, they will be brittle and almost impossible to open without breaking them.
You don't want to break them. If you are hearing air circulating thru the cooling system, try this and let me know how you make out.....

Physically look in the radiator under the cap(if one exsist's) when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. (never overfill the overflow) After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap. Also, if you have even a tiny coolant leak anywhere in the system, air will get drawn in, instead of coolant from the overflow.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.
Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it

That could be the low coolant level so try this...

Physically look in the radiator under the cap(if one exsist's) when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.
Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it

Normally, you shouldn't have to bleed the cooling system but, there are two bleed valves. One is just above the water pump, and the other is on the thermostat housing. They are really small, and due to the age of your car, they will be brittle and almost impossible to open without breaking them.
You don't want to break them. If you are hearing air circulating thru the cooling system, try this and let me know how you make out.....

Physically look in the radiator under the cap when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.
Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it

Physically look in the radiator under the cap when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.
Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.

Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

Physically look in the radiator under the cap when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, have it boiled out, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.
Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.

Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

Fill the resovoir full of coolant then put the cap on. Start the car and let the tempture get about 160 -190 depending on your thermostat. Then proceed to turn the motor off. While the motor is off locate the bleeder valve that is loacted on a metal pipe that runs to the side of the head, Slowly turn the bleeder valve between 3/4 to a full rotation then begin to let the system bleed until there is a steady stream of coolant exiting the valve. Start the vehicle again and repeat till resovoir is full and there is absolutley no air in the system. Failure to do so will result in vapor lock and ultimatley coolant system failure