Camshaft Synchronizer/Sensor About 58,000 miles on car...check engine light has never turned on...Had chirp/squeak coming from top rear of engine. Determined it was the camshaft synchronizer/sensor. Pulled sensor from top of the sychronizer, upon inspection everything was clean and as it should be. Put about 1/2 teaspoon of 10W30 motor oil on top inside synchronizer assembly. Chirp is still GONE after about 300 miles now. Do I consider this an official repair or should I change out the camshaft synchronizer and sensor anyway? It was easy enough to just drop some oil in, took about 20 minutes. Thanks in advance, Todd

have you check for trouble codes...blinking check engine light is for a misfire

If it is a belt noise, sprinkling baby powder on the belt will make the noise go away. Apply liberaly with engine off onto the belt and start the vehicle. The belt may have gotten coolant on it and this will cause the chirp. Also a defective belt tensioner will cause the belt to chirp

Help . Camshaft Sensor - Omfg ( Pics ) - Ford Explorer and Ranger ...

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Replacing Camshaft Synchronizer & Sensor - Ford Mustang Forum

www.allfordmustangs.com > ... > V6 TecCamshaft Position Synchronizer Replacement - YouTube? 1:16https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXOJXnYIZQkNov 18, 2009 - Uploaded by 2003FordTaurus2003 Ford Taurus 3.0L Vulcan 181K miles with chirping sound ... does the shaft move out of its place when ...Camshaft Sensor/Synchronizer Replacement - Page 5 - Ford Tru

This is a code for missfire monitor disabled due to a problem with the cam shaft position sensor or wiring; the first thing to do is verify that the cam shaft syncronizer has not been removed/repositioned from the correct setting if it has been moved it is out of time now and will have to be timed with a special tool. If it has not been moved at all I would suggest removing the cam sensor that mounts on the top and inspect the sensor and the syncronizer for damage... if not damage is noticed check the wiring at the plug for loose pins and broken wires, and, if they are fine replace the sensor.

Tests/Procedures:
1. The code P1309 usually sets because the CMP synchronizer is not installed properly, and is "out of time".

2. If the special tool for installing the synchronizer is not available, the synchronizer must be installed with the crankshaft at 26 degrees AFTER TDC on the #1 cylinder COMPRESSION stroke. To find 26 After Top Dead Center (ATDC), set the engine at TDC of #1 compression stroke, then watch the teeth on the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor tone ring on the front of the crankshaft. Turn the engine by hand until an additional two and a half teeth on the tone ring have passed the CKP sensor. This will be 25 degrees ATDC (you can estimate 1 more degree from there). Then install the synchronizer so that when it is bottomed out, the skinny vane that rotates through the sensor is centered in the sensor opening.

3. Once the synchronizer and CMP sensor are installed, the misfire profile will need to be relearned. To do this, verify that the fuel level is between 1/4 and 3/4 tank, then drive the vehicle, and do 3 or 4 decelerations from 65 MPH down to 40 MPH without touching the brake pedal.


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Jose.

YES. Very common problem. The cam sensor driver unit goes bad. (Usually called a "Cam Syncronizer") Squeeks like crazy, causes hard starts, poor fuel mileage, usually destroys the cam sensor itself, and will cause catalytic converter damage if not fixed promptly. (You will find broken, rusted pieces inside the assembly if you take the sensor off of the top)
Complete kits (Made by Dorman) are available at most parts retailers. It will look similar to this:

It should be noted that although this part is relatively easy to replace, it can also be very easy to install it incorrectly. Proper alignment (Syncronization) should be checked using a scan tool after installation.

Hello there,

There is some risk to doing it yourself, but only if you do it incorrectly. The cam synchronizer is integral to engine timing, and if the new assembly is not installed with the exact same orientation as the original some serious damage could occur. Luckily, it's not that easy to mess up if you pay attention. The teeth on the bottom of the synchronizer are big enough that the vane rotates approx 10 degrees for each tooth. After removing the sensor from the top of the assembly and before touching the clamping nut that secures the synchro; if you mark the relative position of the synchronizer body on the block, and mark the position of the vane on the synchro body you can install the new synchro in the exact same position. If you make accurate marks and pay attention, it will be obvious if you are off. I replaced mine with this method and have driven approx 150 miles since without a CEL to be seen, nor a squeak to be heard.

However, in replacing the sensor, locate the cam synchronizer there should be a small coolant hose above the harness disconnect the hose pull the spark plug wires from the coil move them out of your way lift up on the wiring harness shroud there are two 5.5 mm bolts holding the sensor to the synchronizer remove the bolts remove the sensor mark the location of the synchronizer on the block and there is a *** inside the synchronizer mark its location to the synchronizer body now remove the 10mm bolt holding the synchronizer to the engine pullup twist counter clockwise it should come right out then get your new synchronizer make the same alignment marks on the new one as you marked on the old one and slide your synchronizer in the hole make sure all your marks line up then do the removal steps in reverse.

In any case you encounter much difficulty in doing these yourself, then contact an auto-technician as soon as possible.

Hope these help.

This code could mean:

• the camshaft position sensor could be defective,
  
• the camshaft synchronizer (the part that took the place of the distributor on DIS engines) has failed,
  
• if you have recently had the camshaft synchronizer replaced it could be out of time.
  

See if noise is in what used to be your distributor location. It is called a camshaft synchronizer. The camshaft sensor spins around in this assembly. If it has play in it the sensor will rub on the assembly & cause a squealing noise. It will generaly set check engine light for bad camshaft position sensor. If you buy the synchronizer new it will come with the tool needed to properly install the sensor at its correct position.

The camshaft position sensor and syncro are located on the back of the engine and will sqeek. The syncronizer sits in the engine and is run by the camshaft. the camshaft position sensor sits on top of the syncro and is held down by 2 7/32" screws. If you remove the camshaft position sensor from the top of the syncro and put about 3-5 drops of motor oil in the syncro you may fix your squeek. The syncronizer shaft that goes into the engine will dry out and loose its lubrication causing a squeek/chirp.
I have done this to a few vehicles and had great success.
Hope this helps

Try getting the fuel injectors cleaned. clean the mass air flow sensor .
------------------- also
is typically caused by insufficient lubrication to the camshaft synchronizer, which is the short drive assembly installed where earlier engines had a distributor. Once they begin to squeak, the bushing is shot, and the synchronizer must be rebuilt or replaced. They are available new, new aftermarket, and remanufactured. In extreme cases, looseness of the worn shaft will allow the rotating cam to destroy the cam sensor, which at a minimum will activate the "check engine" light and degrade engine performance, but more likely will result in failure of the engine to run. ---------------- also ---
What color is the smoke? Black - running rich. Bluish - buring oil. White - burning coolant.