Throttle hard to press then sticks when cold

Look for where the throttle cable connects at the throttle body. If you can move the throttle plate here and get the engine to respond, then the cable is either broken or disconnected at one end or the other. Any other situation doesn't seem likely.

yea check sensors and throttle body make sure nothen hitten and linkage free and clear hope helps

Hi

1) If the gas pedal is hard to compress you could have a broken spring inside the throttle housing. The throttle housing is located in the sealed compartment of the cruise control housing.(The housing with the rubber bladder.) You will have to remove the rubber covering to inspect the inner workings of the throttle mechanism. If every thing looks intact push on the accelerator. If it is still hard to push in, you could have a rusty cable.

2) A simple can of WD-40 should be applied lightly to the inner workings of the housing parts.
Try the throttle again and if it is still hard to push, check the connections of the cables to the throttle apparatus. Use the long plastic tube on the spray nozzle of your WD-40 can to shoot lubricant in to the small openings of the cable sleeve.

3) It may take a few minutes of manipulating the throttle to loosen up the corroded cable connections. Once the cable slides and the throttle seems to move freely take a dab of Vaseline and coat the ends of the cable connections. Vaseline will keep the moving parts lubricated and protect the connections from becoming more corroded.

4) By lubricating all moving linkages, you can prevent further throttle sticking. Make sure you replace all coverings back to the way they were when you started. Sit in the drivers seat and push the throttle pedal a few times to ensure that the throttle is no longer sticking.

5) Take your car out for a short spin in a unpopulated area such as a empty parking lot. Start and stop the vehicle numerous times to check it out. If the gas sticks at a slow operating speed, you can simply put the car in to neutral, apply the brakes and switch the ignition off. It is always better to be safe ..

However for an easy solution check cable to throttle body, it may be kinked. This is a common problem. Remove the throttle body and clean the throttle plate with a throttle body cleaner. Clean the front and back of the plate. Just spray and wipe off with a rag. Do not scrub with a wire brush. Doing this can damage the throttle plate. You can buy throttle body cleaner at most parts stores. Make sure you clean up your IAC valve while its off, that thing gets gunked up bad after a while.

Please check the link to remove throttle body in your car:-

http://www.ehow.com/how_4576010_clean-throttle-body-car.html

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

Thank you for contacting fixya.com

It may be as simple as cleaning the throttle plate with some carb spray. With the engine off and preferable with the engine cold remove the air snorkel from the throttle body. Open the throttle body and see if the throttle plate has a lot of carbon build up. If it does spray it with carb spray until clean. It sometimes helps to wipe it down with some rags and then repeat until the throttle plate and throttle body are clean.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

your throttle is sticking spray some wd40 th loosen it

'As in neutral' ? so the eingine accelerates but the car does not move? Or do you mean nothing happens? I had a problem where pushing on the accelerator and the car did not move and the engine stayed in idle. At first I thought it was the throttle cabel but the dealer could not find the problem, and of course, when I took it to the dealer the problem would not occur but as soon as I drove it off the lot it refused to accelerate across an intersection, no matter how hard I pushed on the accelerator. I solved the problem by pulling the air horn from the carb intake (fuel injection, this would be the air horn covering the throttle butterfly) with the rubber pulled from the air horn I saw a small blue screw with a sticker waring not to turn more than a quater turn at t time. I turned it one quarter turn (guessing, left or right, 50/50 chance) and the problem was solved. Apparently this is an adjustment that touches the leading edge of the butterfly keeping it from closing completely against the air intake horn and STICKING. Carbon build up will cause the buterfly flapper to stick tight and the electronic controled throttle will not break it loose no matter how hard you stomp on the accelerator. This car was not a SantaFe but you problem sounds similar. Hope this helps someone.

The throttle-body (or throttle plate inside the throttle-body) is probably gunked-up with carbon deposits and needs a good cleaning.

Take the air snorkel off of the throttle body and look inside while holding the throttle plate open. If you have thick black deposits on the back side of the throttle plate, you can clean it by spraying some throttle body cleaner (Available at any parts store) onto a rag and using an old tooth brush to push the rag, clean all the black gunk out of the area.

I recommend an old tooth brush because using something hard like a screwdriver can scratch the inside of the aluminum throttle body and actually make the throttle stick worse. I don't recommend spraying the throttle body cleaner directly into the throttle body because it can end up in the air plenum where it may loosen some deposits that can cause severe engine damage.

Have you tried cleaning the throttle body. Use throttle body friendly cleaner as it has a special coating that you do not want to damage it. Clean the sutt out real good where the butterfly valve is, inside and outside.

Take off the throttle body (very easy to do) and use carb cleaner to clean off the gunk. You have to clean both sides of the butterfly.

This throttle body has a TPS ( throttle position sensor) and a Accelerator pedal sensor on it. The TPS is on the drivers side and the APS is on the pass side of the throttle body. When this happened your check engine lite came on then went off when it warmed up and acted normally. The code is still in History codes. Check it with a scan tool. I foget the code number but if it come up with the APS code in History, replace that sensor....not the TPS. It is a sealed sensor that gets moisture in it when the seal deteriates and it freezes in very cold weather.