How can you move the blend door to heat manually
"Blend door stuck and clicks on your 2003 Ford Explorer?\" FIRST BUY OEM BLEND DOOR MOTOR $57.00 + UP TOOLS NEEDED : PANEL TOOL OR FLAT BLADE SCREWDRIVER ,1/4 SOCETS 7 & 8MM ....1/4 HANDLE...1/4 SMALL EXTENTION...1/4 RATCHET NO NEED TO REMOVE WHOLE DASHBOARD!!! REMOVE TWO7MM SCREWS FROM THE BOTTOM OF STEERING PANEL & PRY AND REMOVE PANEL. NEXT REMOVE TWO 7MM SCREWS ON BLACK PLASTIC STRIP THAT YOU SEE AFTER REMOVING STEERING PANEL....PRY THIS STRIP OF PLASTIC OUT JUST A LITTLE AND CUT IN THE MIDDLE . NEXT REMOVE TWO 7MM SCREWS FROM AROUND TOP OF INSTRUMENT PANEL (BY GAUGES ) PRY PANEL STARTING FROM AROUND VENT ON LEFT BY DRIVERS DOOR ""THIS PANEL WILL STAY IN PLACE LOOSE... NO NEED TO REMOVE!"" NEXT YOU WILL SEE 0NE 7MM SCREW BY GEAR SELECTOR AREA.. BEHIND THE LOOSE PANEL REMOVE THIS SCREW.. ALSO IN SAME AREA BUT LOWER THERE IS ONE 7MM SCREW THAT NEEDS TO BE REMOVED THAT HOLDS LOWER DASH PAD ITS FOUND BEHIND LOWER CORNER OF DASH PAD.( LOWER DASH PAD GAS PEDAL AREA ) "DON'T"!!! REMOVE THE FOUR 10MM BOLTS!!!! IN SAME AREA NEXT REMOVE RADIO /AC CONTROL TRIM WITH THIN SCREW DRIVER OR PANEL TOOL IT HELD IN BY SIX CLIPS...NO NEED TO DISCONNET ANYTHING IT WILL STAY THERE HANGING!! NEXT REMOVE TWO CENTER CONSOLE LOWER LARGE PLASTIC CLIPS BY FLOOR MATS. NEXT UNDER SQUARE BLACK RUBBER AT CENTER CONSOLE REMOVE ONE SILVER SCREW. MOVE SEATS FOWARD AND REMOVE TWO 8MM SCREWS FROM SIDES OF CENTER CONSOLE FROM BACK SEAT. PRY CUP PANEL SECTION THAT WAS HELD DOWN BY SILVER SCREW ...PRY UP TOP HALF OF CONSOLE STARTING FROM SECTION WHERE ARMREST DOOR IS.. DISCONNECT LIGHTER PLUG AND REMOVE PANEL . NOW YOU WILL SEE SIX SCREWS STARTING FROM BELOW RADIO TRIM WORKING BACK TO ARMREST DOOR .REMOVE ALL SIX..THESE HOLD THE BOTTOM PORTION OF THE CONSOLE ALSO DISCONNET ONE BLACK PLUG AND PULL ALL THE WIRES CLIPPED DOWN...PULL BOTTOM PORTION OF CONSOLE TO BACK SEAT. PULL LOWER DASH PAD GIVE A NICE TUG.. IT SHOULD MOVE OUT A LITTLE ..DID YOU REMEMBER ONE SCREW BEHIND CORNER DASH..!.STARTING FROM AREA BY GAS PEDAL LOOK UP IN THIS AREA YOU WILL HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO GET A LONG EXTENTION WITH AN 8MM SOCKET TO REMOVE 3 SCREWS HOLDING MOTOR TO BLACK PLASTIC SECTION.. REMOVE SCREWS DISCONNECT SMALL BLACK PLUG AND PULL MOTOR FROM SOCKET GOING TOWARD DRIVERS DOOR DIRECTION. ALIGN NEW MOTOR SHAFT WITH SOCKET TIP.......IF NEED BE..... YOU COULD PLUG MOTOR HARNESS INTO NEW MOTOR THEN TURN IGNITION ON AND MOVE HEATER/AC CONTROLS TO GET THE SHAFT LINED UP..DONT MOVE ANY OTHER WAY!!!!!! NOW PUT SHAFT INTO SOCKET MAKE SURE YOU CONNECTED THE PLUG IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY!! INSTALL 8MM SCREWS AND TRY IT OUT YOU SHOULD HAVE HEAT NOW NOW INSTALL EVERTHING BACK IN REVERSE ORDER
Buy a new Blend Door Actuator from a dealer. It will run you around $70. If you buy one from Advance Auto the rod on the Actuator might not amtch up with the blend door. Follow the directions above to install. If you have already installed one from Advance and the Blend door does not stay open, just leave the center console unbolted and the bolts on the passenger side take them out. Pop the center console out and open the passenger side panel. Reach under the dash on the passenger side. There should be a lever like object there. That is the lever connected to the blend door. Pull towards the interior of the vehicle. You should now have heat. If you have cold air coming into the vehicle around the glove box then you probably need a new plenum box
Had same problem, mine was the Heater Blower Resistor going out. The sound stopped once the resistor went out completely. Which this part allows us to control the force of air Low-Med-High etc. When the part goes out completely you are left with a high setting only. When I replaced mine the wires had started to burn up. The Resistor had burnt. The parts aren't too pricey mine was $13.00 and I replaced it myself in about 15 minutes (it was hard to unclip wires from resistor)
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I have an 2002 but my clicking sound when turning heat on and thumping sound when turning it back to cold, doesn't affect the temperature at all . just the annoying sound. I have the front dash cover and radio out at this stage. any help ?????
I have the same problem but it is in a 2004 ford explorer
i have the same problem in my wife's 03 explorer. if there is a ticking noise when trying to control your heat/ac then it is the blend door motor. if there is a loud "thud" noise when switching to or from heat to cold then it is the blend door itself. luckily for me i have both problems. Oh, and we just had the rear differential repaired, another common problem with the explorer. This will be my last Ford. Thanks for playing but 3 common problems all with repair bills in 500-1500 range, no thanks. I hope you don't get a bail out either, i'lve already given your dealers enough of my money.
I have a similar problem on my 06 Explorer, however, mine just doesn't heat up. The dealership thinks that it's the blend door actuator but since there is a national back order on this, they claim that changing my thermostat will suffice. I have 900 miles left on my warranty!! I hope this helps, I live in IOWA and it's impossible to drive with NO heat at all in the winter!!
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