1990 honda crx water pump

their is no 1985 crv if its a CRX HO1220 Water Pump for 84-87 Honda Civic & CRX 1.3L 1.5L SOHC EV1 EW1
1.3L 1.5L EV1 EW1 EJ1 D15A2 Engine. Water Pump for HONDA. 1986 L4-1493cc 1.5L CARB Vin EW1. 1986 L4-1487cc 1.5L 3 BBL Vin EW1. 1985 L4-1487cc 1.5L 3 BBL Vin EW1. 1984 L4-1487cc 1.5L 3 BBL Vin EW1.

most water pumps I believe have a weep hole that drips out coolant basically letting the person owning the car know that it is time to change the water pump. but then again have you checked to see if the water pump hoses are secure and aren't cracked?

I think you need a tune up spark plugs and plug wires distributor cap and distributor rotor

I would suggest an ignition module. If it is a rough idle at startup I would check the throttle position sensor. You can check that by starting the car and unplugging the TPS. If the car runs differently then chances are it is working fine.

this is not the problem of fluid, this is a major problem of transmission. The transmission must be detached from the engine, which you cant do by yourself. the transmission can be repaired but i dont know mechanics in your do it. otherwise you have to replace the transmission.

There is no easy way, the water pump is driven off the camshaft belt, you must pull the timing cover to remove the belt, line up all the timing marks before you remove the belt, don't reuse the belt.

There isn't really an easy way, as the water pump is driven by the timing belt, requiring removal of the timing covers, timing belt etc to replace. This is definitely a job for a mechanic, or at least a skilled handyman with a lot of experience with timing belt replacement. The timing belt and tensioner will need to be replaced at the same time, but at least then you know that it will not need to done again for 100,000 kms (60,000 miles).

Unfortunately, u must remove the timing belt. This is why it is recommended to change the water pump when the timing belt is changed.
Here's the procedure : Disconnect neg. battery cable, remove splash shield at wheel well, (after removing wheel to help gain access, turn the engine to align timing marks and set #1 cylinder at top dead center on the COMPRESSION stroke. Once this is done, u can NOT disturb engine or u will have a fun time trying to figure out how the heck to set the timing. Drain anitfreeze, remove timing belt, remove water pump bolts (be aware that bolts may be different lengths, don't mix them up, remove water pump and O ring.
Put it back together: install new O ring and water pump, be careful Oring doesn't slip or move out of position, tighten to 9 ft lbs, install timing belt, refill antifreeze, reconnect battery cable, start car, check for leaks, bleed cooling system, replace splash shield.

what kind of box is it?

You might want to check for any possible vacuum leaks from the back of the intake manifold. A severe enough vacuum leak will cause the engine to spit and sputter. You may also want to check the egr valve stuck in the open position as well. Also caused by possible vacuum issues. Vacuum within the intake will increase with accelaration and if you have a cracked line it could cause the symptoms you are describing.

Good Luck