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Anonymous Posted on Nov 18, 2011

LOcking hub and axle

A bearing went bad and desroyed everything in the rotor hub assembly plus the manual locking hub. It had a locking clip on the axle which I assume is to keep the axle from going back into the spindle

  • Anonymous Nov 18, 2011

    what is your exact question?

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Nov 11, 2008

SOURCE: Stuck Right Front Wheel Bearing Assembly

With a "puller" or if that doesn't work the old hammer and chisel all around the parting line till it frees up.

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Anonymous

  • 1392 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 07, 2009

SOURCE: 2005 ford escape assembly diagram for the front axle

If they are sealed bearings, you will need a press to get them out. If they are bolt in, just remove the brake pads/rotors, then the axle nut, then the bolts holding the wheel bearing in. Install in reverse order.

Anonymous

  • 6784 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 13, 2009

SOURCE: I have a 2003 Ford f250 heavy duty 5.4l.On the

Wheel bearings are designed for longevity. Their life expectancy, based on metal fatigue, can usually be calculated if general operating conditions are known. Bearing failures not caused by normal material fatigue are called permanent failures. The causes can range from improper lubrication or incorrect mounting, to poor condition of the shaft housing or bearing surfaces.

Inspect the bearings for these improper wear conditions, and for:

A. pitting.
B. rust.
C. corrosion.
D. Excessive clearance(play)

If you find any of the above stated damage. The bearings should be replaced not adjusted. To service the wheel bearings, you'll need to repack the bearings and replace the grease seal.



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digritz

david mcclellan

  • 530 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 12, 2009

SOURCE: 1990 f150 4x4 front axle removal

I'm not positive what type axle you have but the order of parts should be the anti lock free running hub assembly, a lock washer then the wheel bearing lock nut. The lock nut could look like a thick washer with 5 or 6 holes in it.
But depending on your front axle you may have a rotor and hub assembly that's a single unit or they could be separate. If they are separate then you may need a sledge hammer to get the rotors off. Ford's front rotors can be a real pain in the a$$ to get loose. Regardless which type you have if the order of what you have taken off so far matches what I said then washer is probably the locking nut. The only way to get it off is a special spanner wrench or a punch and hammer. If you are still uncertain about it let me know and give the axle make and type and I'll be glad to help.
Good luck
If

wadembly

Wade Mobley

  • 513 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 16, 2010

SOURCE: How do I remove the manual locking hubs from my 1990 Ford F250 ?

there is also a nut inside that holds hub to axle

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How do u remove hubs on a 1992 Isuzu big horn

TO DO WHAT? not even the smallest hint on job or failure.>?
USA?
hubs, the rears have hubs to with disc brake option.rotor hubs.
I guess front hubs?.
guess 2, wheel bearing hubs, and not 4wd axle locking hub units.
doing what?
brakes, wheel bearings, axle damage. 4wd axle bearings what?
the pages are 2wd pages, and 4 wd pages, which is yours?
is this your first time DIY ever. ? or first time 4wd?
guess 3, 4wd, how am I guessing....


names
Acura SLX
Chevrolet Trooper
Isuzu Bighorn
Holden Jackaroo
Holden Monterey
Honda Horizon
HSV Jackaroo
Opel Monterey
Subaru Bighorn
Vauxhall Monterey
wow......
our usa book lists it as trooper only.
so ...

just B or B then A off? if you had b off, you'd see what?, a big nut.
that is locked to spindle shaft.
ill guess? wheel bearings are bad? (just in hub not spindle bearings bad... no matter this is first.)
so you do what. ? here are the steps.

that part"B" must be off first, see the bolts holding it, ?
B = auto locking hubs. or hub axle lockers.
26005769-b5pjo3cin0lhc1b54v4xlnuy-4-0.jpg you can see the caliber must come off, so, do so and tie them up.
  1. "Place the Transfer shift in the 2H position.
  2. Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely on jackstands. (rear tires chocked, and hand brake set hard)
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  4. Loosen the hub to rotor retainer bolts.
  5. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and carefully remove the caliper (along with the brake pads) from the rotor. Do not disconnect the brake line. Secure the caliper out of the way with the flexible line still connected.
  6. Remove the hub nut using hub wrench J-29020-A or equivalent. ( special tool)
  7. Remove the hub cap assembly retainer bolts. Remove the spindle nut, washers, and other components. Remove the hub/rotor, being careful not to drop the outer wheel bearings. As the hub/rotor is pulled forward, the outer wheel bearings will often fall forward.
  8. Once the hub/rotor is removed, remove the retainer bolts securing the rotor and hub together. Inspect the hub and replace if needed."
  9. end removal. install is next... (alldata.com covers this)
1helpful
1answer

I've changed rotors before but never on a 4 wheel drive. Could you tell me how to on a 1989 ford ranger?

Brake Rotor (Disc) - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts.
  2. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support on jackstands.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire.
  4. Remove the brake caliper assembly as described earlier in this section, but do not disconnect the brake hose.
  5. Suspend the caliper assembly by a piece of wire. Do not allow it to hang by the brake hose.
  6. Follow the procedure given under wheel bearing removal in Suspension and Steering for models with manual and automatic locking hubs (lines down).
New rotor assemblies come protected with an anti-rust coating which should be removed with denatured alcohol or degreaser. New hubs must be packed with EP wheel bearing grease.
  1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.


Front Wheel Bearings - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figure 1 )


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Fig. 1: Inspect the bearings for abnormal wear and/or damage



With Manual Locking Hubs
(see Figures 2 through 17)

  1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove the retainer washers from the lug nut studs and remove the manual locking hub assembly from the spindle.
  4. Remove the snapring and spacer from the end of the spindle shaft.
  5. Remove the outer wheel bearing locknut from the spindle using 4 prong spindle nut spanner wrench, T86T-1197-A or equivalent. Make sure the tabs on the tool engage the slots in the locknut.
  6. Remove the locknut washer from the spindle.
  7. Remove the inner wheel bearing locknut from the spindle using 4 prong spindle nut spanner wrench, T86T-1197-A or equivalent. Make sure the tabs on the tool engage the slots in the locknut.
  8. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. Remove the hub and rotor from the spindle.
  9. Using seal removal tool 1175-AC or equivalent remove and discard the grease seal. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub.
  10. Clean the inner and outer bearing assemblies in solvent. Inspect the bearings and the cones for wear and damage. Replace defective parts, as required.
  11. If the cups are worn or damaged, remove them with front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C and tool T77F-1102-A or equivalent.
  12. Wipe the old grease from the spindle. Check the spindle for excessive wear or damage. Replace defective parts, as required.
zjlimited_534.gif

Fig. 2: Before beginning the wheel bearing removal, and after the outer hub is removed, wipe off any excess grease

zjlimited_535.gif

Fig. 3: After the grease is wiped off, remove the axle shaft snapring ...

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Fig. 4: ... then pull the splined spacer from the axle shaft end

zjlimited_537.gif

Fig. 5: Use a 4 pronged socket to loosen the outer wheel bearing locknut ...

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Fig. 6: ... then remove the outer locknut

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Fig. 7: Remove the lockwasher from behind the outer locknut ...

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Fig. 8: ... then loosen and remove the inner locknut-note the lockwasher engagement pin (arrow)

zjlimited_541.gif

Fig. 9: While pushing inwards on the rotor/hub assembly, remove the outer wheel bearing ...

zjlimited_542.gif

Fig. 10: ... then pull the rotor/hub assembly from the spindle, taking care not to scratch the bearing cups in the hub

zjlimited_543.gif

Fig. 11: Pry out the grease seal on the back of the rotor/hub assembly ...

zjlimited_544.gif

Fig. 12: ... then remove the inner wheel bearing. Thoroughly clean and inspect all of the parts for wear or damage





continue...

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1answer

Need exploded view of 1995 dodge 2500 left front u-joint removal process. How does main bearing race come off?

FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs
  1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
  2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle 88477g63.gif

  3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
  4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware 88471109.gif

  5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
  6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
  7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
  8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
  9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
  10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
  11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
  12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
  13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50-80 ft. lbs. (68-108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
  14. Assemble the hub parts.
  15. Install the caliper.
  16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive
  1. Remove the wheel cover.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle 88477g64.gif

  3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
  4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship 88477g65.gif

  5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
  6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
  7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
  8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
  9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
  10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
  11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
  12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
  13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
  14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
  15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat 88477g69.gif

  16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
  17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
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0helpful
1answer

How do you remove the Hub and Rotor on a 97' F250 with Auto 4 wheel drive? I can not get the rotor to come off. I know that the hub must come with it. However, I am not sure what I have not removed in...

Section 05-03C: Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive 1997 F-250/350/Super Duty Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 05/17/2000 Locking Hubs, Manual

e9801b.gif


Item Part Number Description 1 3A329 Halfshaft 2 3C132 Rolling Diaphragm Seal (Axle) 3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal 4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle 5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle 6 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal 7 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 8 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor 9 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 10 - Pin (Part of 1195) 11 1195 Inner Lock Nut 12 1198 Lockwasher 13 1197 Outer Lock Nut 14 - Steel Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 15 - Plastic Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 16 - Splined Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 17 3B457 Snap Ring 18 1K105 Hub Body 19 - Lock Ring (Part of 1K106) 20 1K104 Cap 21 1K104 Capscrew A - While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Inner Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). B - Tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 4-6 Nm
(35-53 Lb-In) Removal
  1. Separate cap assembly from hub body by removing the three Torx® head capscrews.


    de0460a.gif



    de0285a.gif

  1. Remove the lock ring seated in the groove of the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102).


    f4658c.gif

  1. Remove the hub body assembly from the front disc brake hub and rotor. If the body is difficult to remove, install two capscrews and pull the body assembly out of the front disc brake hub and rotor.


    f4659d.gif

Installation
  1. NOTE: Do not pack the hublock body assembly or cap with grease. Excessive grease can cause excessive dialing effort and hub failure.

    Follow removal procedure in reverse order.
  1. Tighten three Torx® head capscrews to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb-in).
2helpful
1answer

How technical is it to replace a front wheel bearing on a 2005 Pontiac SV6 and can I do it without any specialized tools

you will need a big socket (20 or 21 mm) and 1/2 inch drive to remove axle nut and torque wrench to reinstall. The book DOES call for a special tool to get the hub off the axle, but I have never used one before.


Removal & Installation


  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel.
  3. Remove the wheel drive shaft nut.
  4. Remove the brake caliper and wire aside.
  5. Remove the brake rotor.
  6. Disconnect the electrical connector from the wheel speed sensor.
  7. Remove the wheel speed sensor connector from the bracket by depressing the locking tabs.
  8. Remove the 3 hub and bearing assembly bolts.
  9. Install Wheel Hub Removal tool J-42129 to the hub and bearing assembly in order to remove the hub and bearing assembly from the wheel drive shaft.
  10. Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.

To install:
  1. Install the hub and bearing assembly to the steering knuckle.
  2. Install the 3 hub and bearing assembly bolts and tighten to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
  3. Install the wheel speed sensor connector into the bracket until the locking tabs click into place.
  4. Connect the electrical connector to the wheel speed sensor.
  5. Install the axle nut to the wheel drive shaft and hand tighten.
  6. Install the brake rotor.
  7. Use a screw driver or similar tool to stop the rotation of the brake rotor.
  8. Tighten the wheel drive shaft nut to 159 ft. lbs. (215 Nm).
  9. Install the brake caliper.
  10. Install the tire and wheel.
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2answers

Hi,I am a Diesal mec.for Peterbilt in Utah,I have 1998 dodge ram 1500 I found that I have the right front axle u-joint going bad I have the parts.I have heard some bad things of how hard it is to get the...

FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs
  1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
  2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle 88477g63.gif

  3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
  4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware 88471109.gif

  5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
  6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
  7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
  8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
  9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
  10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
  11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
  12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
  13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50–80 ft. lbs. (68–108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
  14. Assemble the hub parts.
  15. Install the caliper.
  16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive
  1. Remove the wheel cover.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle 88477g64.gif

  3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
  4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship 88477g65.gif

  5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
  6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
  7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
  8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
  9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
  10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
  11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
  12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
  13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
  14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
  15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat 88477g69.gif

  16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
  17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
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1helpful
1answer

Front brake rotor on 1992 Ford Ranger 4wd with auto lock in

With Automatic Locking Hubs
  1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
  2. Remove the wheel lugnuts and the wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove the retainer washers from the lugnut studs. Remove the automatic locking hub assembly from the spindle.
  4. Remove the snap ring from the end of the spindle shaft.
  5. Remove the axle shaft spacer
  6. Being careful not to damage the plastic moving cam or thrust spacers, pull cam assembly off the wheel bearing adjusting nut and remove the two plastic thrust spacers from the adjusting nut. CAUTION: Do not pry on the plastic cam or thrust spacers during removal. Prying may damage the cam or spacers.
  7. Using a magnet, remove the locking key. NOTE: If required, rotate the adjusting nut slightly to relieve pressure against the locking key, before the key can be removed. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the spindle threads, look into the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut and remove the separate locking key before removing the adjusting nut.
  8. Loosen the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the spindle using a 2-3/8 inch Hex Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-B or equivalent.
  9. While rotating the hub and rotor assembly, tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 47 Nm (35 ft lb) to seat the bearings. Spin the rotor and back off the nut one-quarter turn (90 degrees).
  10. Retighten the adjusting nut to 1.8 Nm (16 in lb) using a torque wrench.
  11. Align the closest lug in the wheel bearing adjusting nut with the center of the spindle keyway slot. Advance the nut to the next lug if required. Install the separate locking key in the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut. WARNING: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the spindle nut adjustment lug with the center of the spindle keyway slot to prevent damage to the separate locking key. The wheel and tire assembly may come off while the vehicle is in motion if the key is damaged.
  12. Install the two thrust spacers and push or press the cam assembly onto the locknut by lining up the key in the fixed cam with the spindle keyway. CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the fixed cam key with the spindle keyway to prevent damage to the fixed cam.
  13. Install the axle shaft spacer.
  14. Clip the snap ring onto the end of the spindle shaft.
  15. Install the automatic locking hub assembly over the spindle by lining up the three hub assembly legs with three pockets in cam assembly. Install the retainer washers.
  16. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten lugnuts to 135 Nm (100 ft lb).
  17. Make sure the final end play of the wheel on the spindle is 0.00-0.08 mm (0.000-0.003 inch). the maximum torque to rotate the hub is 2.8 Nm (25 in lb).

12helpful
1answer

Front brake rotor removal

Your rotors have an integrated hub with serviceable bearing.

Remove the six bolts around the center of the hub and pry off the grease cover.

behind it you will find a locking wheel with two philips screws holding it in position. Remove the screws and unscrew the locking wheel.

Behind is a large axle locknut that requires a special tool to remove. It has two small holes to grip with. Unscrew it and you will be able to remove the outer bearing, then slide the rotor off the spindle/axle.

From there you can unbolt the rotor disc from the hub backside, or replace the whole unit. Replacing the whole unit will require installing new bearings/races, however.

Either method will require repacking the bearings and loading the bearings with the special locknut tool.
0helpful
1answer

1996 ford bronco

Good lighting will help. Also, use a brake cleaner spray or penetrant to clean things off so you can see .I have a 1996 F150 with push button 4WD with manual locking hubs. Dana 44 axle. Yours may be similar. For front wheel, remove locking ring just inside the inner edge of the hub housing (once you remove the manual hub locking switch, 6 screws on mine, could be 3 on others). Not conspicuous, took me awhile to find. Your hub locking assembly will appear to be recessed just behind its edge goes around outer circumferance. Next, Remove the locking spring (looks like a washer) around the very end of the spline shaft. This is towards the center around the shaft. There is a silver looking retainer ring you have too pull it over, use very small standard screwdriver. Locking mechanism should pull right out after that, giving you access to the outer bearing adjustment nut. Use 4 prong wheel bearing nut socket readily available at auto parts stores. Remove adjustment nut. Next, remove spacer that fits into keyway on shaft. There is nothing holding it on, just pull it off. Beneath that there is another bearing nut, remove this also with 4 prong socket. Just pull hub off after removed. Sometimes rust will keep you from removing at this point. Just get a good penetrant lubricant, spray on and let soak, repaeat if necessary . You can also get a plastic 4lb+ dead blow hammer to assist. Bang on rotor from inside to out. Be prepared to service wheel bearings, they fit into the inside of the rotor/hub assembly and will be dislodged when you remove it. This is as far as I have gotten myself. Good Luck.
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