I have a 96 ford probe GT , automatic with the 2.5L 24valve with the DOHC....I drove it one morning, about a mile down the road and back, it ran perfectly fine. Parked it, went out a few hours later and it didn't want to start. It finally started after a few cranks, but acted like it was only running on the front 3 cylinders, ran like total ****. Held the gas to the floor, it would only tach up to 3 grand. Was blowing a bit of white smoke from the exhaust. It started up like this and ran a few times, never died, but now it will not start at all, It will turn over and will rumble like it's going to start, but will not fire up completely. ***just a side note, it had been making a small chattering noise for about 2 weeks before this happened.**** We have checked the fuel pressure, it's carrying 40-41psi.. Checked the Compression on all cylinders, it's running between 90 and 120. Cut the exhaust in front of the catalytic converter today to see if maybe it was clogged and preventing it from starting.... Replpaced the plugs already. Checked the starter. Checked the oil for shavings and water, the oil is fine and is clean, not milky. Checked the anti-freeze, there is no oil in it..... It is getting spark on all cylinders..... I am completely at my whits end with this car. Someone please help, been at this for 2 months now and this is my only car
The compression values you mentioned are a bit off. There shouldn't be more than a 10-20% variation. But, that should not prevent it from starting.
First thing you need to do though is have someone put a scanner on it and make sure the computer and sensors are all OK. Timing chain/belt could cause a problem but make sure the computer system is good first.
Hello! I would suggest a back pressure issue is at the root of the fault...The white smoke out of the exhaust is a clue, coupled with all the other data...So lets eliminate the most obvious component; A plugged Positive crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve...Or its tubes...See diagrams below...#1...Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation valve (PCV valve)
along with the crankcase ventilation tube from the valve cover...#2...blow through the ventilation tubes to insure there isn't a blockage...And #3...Replace the PCV valve (you can shake it to see if that little ball that lives inside freely moves)...However replacing the valve is the better option...This eliminates the #1 potential cause of the fault...Lets see what we have after this procedure...Guru..Saailer
FRAM Part # FV341 Cost $2
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867
Hello! Have you replaced the PCV valve? It needs to be eliminated as a fault...saailer
Forget the about wasting your money on anything but a factory repair manual. The Haynes and others are riddled with mistakes and use allot of generalities and generic repair info. You can find a used factory manual at www.faxon.com
I will agree the timing belt is a real possibilty here, they last about 60,000 under severe service, if the car is a federal version (49 state) then it should be changed every 60,000 according to the service manual,105,000 for Calif versions of this 2.5L V6
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Hate suggesting this; it may be your timing belt. If you have any reference literature on it, you should be able to check marks on the cam(s) to see if they are where they belong.
If you need a service manual, I recommend Haynes; they have gone up in price, but $27 US is still not bad. They can be had through any auto parts store or the online site:
'96 Probe manual
-or your local library may have a donated copy
This is an interference engine (see link below) and this can be a very expensive failure if you continue trying to start the engine before verifying the belt condition. If the belt has lost a tooth or two, you may be close to trashing valves and maybe more:
Gates belts info, '96 Probe GT
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Due to the complex nature of the problem please use our new Marketplace service Marketplace is a pay for expert help type of service just started by FixYa, but it is the best thing for you at this point. The cost varies allot by expert, so shop around. Do your research on the experts background and skills. I am for instance a Ford trained Master Technician on this model and make.
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