2007 forenza will not crank attery is new and fine, checked the clutch switch by bypassing it with jumper, and tapped relays thinking maybe main relay is acting up, it is not making any sound at starter at all, never had a problem with starting, I really think it is a key fob or relay but no start relay anywhere.. tapped on solenoid to no avail.. any ideas suzuki mechanics?

Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good, all ends, not just at the battery. If your saying starter motor won't crank the engine, use jumper on switch side of relay, pull relay, right side in diagram, terminals 30 and 87, starter motor should crank the engine, depending on the issue. If you try that, make sure transmission is in park or neutral and parking brake is set. Vehicle can't move. when you jump switch side of relay, your bypassing the control side of relay. Should crank regardless of gps. Don't know much about gps?

If your saying the starter motor won't crank the engine. Battery connections all good? Pull the starter relay, use jumper wire between terminals 30 and 87, terminal 30, hot all the time. The starter motor should crank. If you try that, make sure the tranny is in park or neutral and the parking brake is set. If it cranks with the jumper, the problem is on control side of relay. The control side has to have voltage and ground. As you can see, the neutral or clutch switch is involved, depending on the tranny. There are also fuses involved.

Relay will not engage if pressure switch thinks freon is low. This switch does sometimes fail. If you are sure freon is ok, use jumper wire to bypass low pressure switch and see what happens.

checking is always first why guess????????
no symptoms stated, so can really help you
but lets say , it dont crank.

1. does it crank, no
2. does jumper cables to running donor car crank , yes, battery dead./discharged only, or alternator let it go dead.
3. jumper fails. so hot wire the starter soleniod, that works ok>?
4. yes the starter is good, you owe me 100 clams.
5. no, then the KEY line is dead.
6. so you wiggle the clutch pedal and it starts now, the clutch switch was /bad . you bypass this switch it cranks perfect.
7. got a voltmeter this is 100x more easy,. for sure.

On my '97 Camaro, the first thing I hear when turning the ignition key is the fuel pump run and the fuel rail pressure up. .
First thought is, manual cars must have clutch depressed and auto cars in Park or Neutral to enable cranking. If these inhibit switches are faulty then that could be your problem. Had an old 5-speed manula Pontiac Fiero with a faulty inhibit switch. I just bypassed the switch with a piece of jumper wire. Just had to remember to ensure car was in neutral when starting!!
Do you have a shop manual with wiring diagrams? The Haynes manual schematic covering both Camaro and Firebird diagram shows a theft deterrent relay between the starter key switch and the main starter solenoid mounted on the starter motor. This relay actuating coil has a volts feed on one side of the coil from the inhibit switches fitted to ensure the car is in Park or Neutral for Automatics or the clutch must be depressed for manual cars. The other side ot this relay coil is grounded via the Theft Deterrent Module.
There is also a further fuse. Number 16, a 3 amp fuse labelled "Crank fuse" that is labelled as going to the Diagnostic Energy Reserve Module. Not sure what that is but with the fuse labelled "crank fuse" it sounds important!! it may be linked to the theft deterrent module but my manual is not clear on that.
If all the fuses are OK then I think the problem lies in the anti theft system.
To bypass the anti-theft and enable cranking you could simply break the yellow/black wire from the theft deterrent relay and ground the relay coil. (cut the wire and connect to ground / chassis, the bit going to the relay not going toward the anti-theft module) Turning the starter key should then apply volts that are coming from the transmission inhibit or clutch inhibt switches to the coil of the theft inhibit relay. This relay then pulls in and applies vots to the main starter solenoid and so enable cranking. The starter solenoid should be heard as a solid thunk as it pulls in. Small relays as a tick.
If this works then wire in a hidden switch in this ground wire to act as a unique anti theft device.
However if the vehicle control electronics are also fried then you will still have problems.
Hope all this is of some help and best of luck.
Cheers, Brian. (Over in Manchester, England, Europe)

About the only thing you didn't mention was the starter itself. You could have it tested. But before that, try to see if you have power on the small wire to starter solenoid on the starter, when key is held in cranking position. Pull the small wire off and check for power with a multimeter or a testlight while someone holds the key in crank. This is the signal wire from ignition switch that closes the elec. contacts inside solenoid so the starter gets full power from the battery to spin. (This wire also is in the circuit with the clutch switch and the starter relay.) If you have power on this wire in crank, it is very likely the starter is bad. If there is no power, check that circuit out. It is losing power somewhere from switch to starter solenoid. Good luck.

I'm assuming you have a no-crank condition. check interlock relay and safety interlock. Safety interlock is on shifter if you have automatic. It's on the clutch pedal arm if you have manual. Interlock relay should be in engine compartment relay box. You can bypass both of these and the ignition switch by jumping the solenoid. See troubleshooting procedures here: http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5821173-doesnt_car_start_gasoline_engines
and let me know if you have questions.

If your starter has 2 or more small wires on it you may have switched the terminals. If you have a separate starter relay you can bypass the relay with a jumper cable and send 12 volts to the starters only main cable. It should crank, have it in Park (Auto) or Neutral (stick shift). If the starter does not crank bypassed then the only thing missing is a good ground. Use a pair of jumper cables and try grounding the starter case and connect the cable to a good ground. With the gauges dancing usually a bad ground is the reason, so the jumper cables will help with that problem too, at least for test reasons.

If you had the old starter tested, then you know it was the first problem. But if the old starter was not tested your problem could be a bad starter relay, an ignition switch,or finally a bad ground. Check the grounding of the remote starter relay, check for a plug-in connector off the end of the steering column for corrosion.

If it engages when you bypass, it is not the magnetic clutch.
It could be a relay or the low pressure cycling switch. I would jumper the cycling pressure switch connector. If it runs, I would check to be sure you have enough pressure first with compressor running. If ok, change the cycling switch