SOURCE: interior door handle replacement 1992 honda accord
Do u mean the door latch, which u pull to open the door, or the plastic molded handle u grab to shut the door? If it's the latch, there are two small round plugs in the plastic area of the door lock and locking switch. Use a small flat end screwdriver to pry them out , exposing two philips head screws. If this isn't what u needed, let me know, I'll get more info for u. countrycurt0
SOURCE: 1992 honda accord spark plugs and wire
chilton or haynes manual will give you all this and every thing else you need for your vehicle
SOURCE: honda accord 1992 tune up
Don't do it. You are smart enough to know that this tune up is full of fluff. Find another mechanic, this is either a dealer or a thief, maybe both.
Do you know what MPG the car got when new (are you original owner)? If you do, and If it's getting the same mileage it did when new, you don't need much of a tune up.
you probably need :
1.air filter
2.oil change and filter
3. plugs if > 100K since last changed
4. MAYBE, just MAYBE a fuel filter, but if you don't have a performance problem, probably don't need it.
5. If you don't have a significantly different mileage from new, and the car idles and runs rock steady, you don't need wires now ... tomorrow might be a different story ... but you'll have symptoms first.
Lets look at what is BS in the list:
I call BS -> "ADJUST" in "Renew & Adjust Spark Plugs", it sounds great but in several dozen plugs I have checked, they were all 100% to spec out of the box, they are not made by monkeys.
I call MAYBE BS "Inspect Or Replace Distributor Cap, Rotor" I think your 92 is electronic ignition, 93 was because I had a 93 honda. So I call Probably. Now I call definite BS on "Inspect or Replace", since they aren't replacing many of them, but at that price you paying for a new one. If they don't use a microscope with heavy backlighting to inspect the cap and roter THAT YOU DON'T EVEN HAVE, they are wasting their time and your money by inspecting it.
I call BS "Service Or Renew Air, Fuel Filter And PCV Valve", if they can't say Replace Air, Fuel filter and Inspect PCV, I sure wouldn't pay them $390 ... are they on crack;~)! They are NOT going to "Service" the air and fuel filter, if they understand english, they should say what they mean, if they can't do this, do you want them servicing your car?
I call BS "Adjust Ignition Timing And Check Advance" What on earth do they think could possibly have changed the ignition timing, and how in the world do they think they are going to adjust it, by rotating the distributor cap you don't have? ... it's got an electronic ignition (98% sure it does).
I call BS " Make Necessary Fuel Adjustments", what fuel adjustments, Have them explain a SINGLE fuel adjustment in your car they are possibly qualified to make unless they have a $100K clean room. The car is fuel injected,are they going to disassemble the injection pump in their clan room and mic and replace the fuel rotor (read:NO).
I call BS "Service Battery", ok, MAYBE they will rinse off the top and add distilled water or at least check it - takes you 5 minutes if you are unqualified.
Keep in mind no one is right 100% of the time, but if your engine is Injected and Electronic ignition (easily verified), most of this is useless from a generic list of cars from prior to the 80's or 90's, and I'm not wrong that often.
I call MAJOR BS " Does Not Include: Adjust Belts", OK, never mind this is a trival thing to do if it's needed (rarely), but they are charging you $400 for what they will spend an hour at most to do.
I call MAJOR BS ->No Oil change listed in the service ... THIS ALWAYS NEEDS TO BE DONE ... EVERY SCHEDULED SERVICE
SOURCE: 2004 Honda Accord Euro. Central
I am a mechanic and had the same problem with a 2005 Acord that I purchased couple of months ago. Contact through the trade provided little help. The problem arose during a week that we in Adelaide, South Australia had a record o 40+ degrees centigrade heat. I noticed the drop knob slightly moving when the immobiliser was activated, but the drivers door failed to lock. Key locking would lock all doors however.
The cost of a door actuator from a Honda dealer was $185.00 (Aus), about $250 (US). The spare parts guy told me they had them in stock and sold a number of them. As a result I decided to find out whether the actuator was in fact faulty. I susequently removed the door lock and actuator assembly from the door. (A fiddly type job). The actuator assembly is in a plastic sealed assembly. By using a lot of patience and a box cutter I was able to cut around the assembly and then carefully lever the plastic housing apart. This revealled the small electric motor (similar to a slot car motor) that drove a worm and wheel assembly and a system of cams that actuated the door lock system. I found on dismantling the electric motor that the armature was coated with grease from the wormwheel /cam assembly that is mounted above the motor when installed in the vehicle. I cleaned the armature and brushes using superfine wet and dry carborundum paper, undercut and cleaned out the two armature segments of all remaining grease with a solvent. The motor was then tested with 12 volts and found to be ok. I then reinstalled the motor and glued the housing back together. It now works fine. I believe the housing was either initially overfilled with lubricant or that the high ambient temperature caused the grease to melt and flow into the elecric motor contaminating the motor. (There is no seal between the gearbox and the electric motor). The job took a few hours from start to finish but I saved the cost of purchasing the part and didn't let it beat me.
Cheers and beers
Alistair Buckley
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