My motor mounts and trans mounts rubbers are soft, are they difficult or expensive to replace?

With car in drive/reverse and foot hard on brake if the engine moves when gas pedal is depressed and quickly released in both D&R, then that mount/mounts is defective...

Engine mount should be replaced if:

1) The hard rubber surface is covered with heat check cracks.

2) The rubber is separated from the metal plate of the engine mount.

3) The rubber is split through the center of the engine mount



The transmission case will crack or break if either engine mounts or transmission rear mount is broken...Here is a GM Service bulletin addressing the issue:

#02-07-30-024B



The transmission mount (see drawing) test:

>Raise and support the vehicle

>Raise the transmission/transaxle in order to remove the weight from the transmission/transaxle mount and create slight tension in the rubber.

Replace trans. mount if anyone of the three conditions listed above exist...saailer







I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

1-10 scale....4-5

The best place to go for that-- is a trans repair shop

You do all motor & trans mounts at one time & be done for good

I'd try using an aftermarket urethane mount (check Summit Racing).... Urethane mounts will put up with much more of a beating than do stock mounts. I'd also take a look at the trans mount. If the trans mount is bad, it will cause excessive movement that will kill the engine mounts rather quickly.
If using stock mounts, make sure there isn't any oil leaking on them. Oil will soften the rubber and cause it to fail as well.

is there a rubber bushing between the trans and mount. make sure this is secured properly.

You have to replace the whole mount. They aren't that expensive. I suppose you could replace just the rubber, but they don't sell them that way.

Typically this a result of bad motor mounts, I had the same issue with my 92 honda accord, changing the side mounts and the strut up front resolved the issue. The Trans mount, behind the motor is the most difficult mount to change and requires you to unbolt the other mounts and roll the motor far enough forward to gain access to that mount, but once all 4 mounts are replaced your issue should be resolved

it sounds like you may have a bad transmission mount or motor mount. put a jack under the transmission and jack the trans up. Look at the trans mount and the motor mounts and see if the rubber is cracked or ripped.

Before you remove the transmission and not knowing the condition of your oilpan, I might be able to save you some trouble.
If you have a few leaks in the metal of the oilpan, JB Weld can be used without replacing a pan. If you have a stripped drain hole, there are oversized plugs and rubber expansion plugs for that problem.

Sometimes you need to turn the crankshaft to clear the rods. And you can clear the frame and the oilpump with the oilpan by loosening the motor mounts and trans mounts and lifting the motor and reblocking the motor mounts.

But if you want to still pull the trans out, you will pull the driveshaft, the trans linkage and dipstick pipe. Then unbolt the starter, torque converter, and finally every bolt on the trans case to motor block. Earlier you loosened the trans mount bolts, now the frame crossbar should be unbolted and everything should drop.

some movement is normal as you accelerate hard,But if it is alot you need to check motor mounts and transmission mounts for movement.
lift the hood and have a friend put the E brake on,put in first and let the clutch out slowly while giving it gas to check the left motor mount out,notice how high the motor lifts,then do the same thing in reverse,that will check the right side mount if they look the same you will have to have the transmission mount check on a hoist.