Brake light displays

Make sure your handbrake cable is adjusted properly. Adjust the rear brake shoes down to where the wheels turn freely with the linings only just touching the drums. Be sure to pump the pedal a few times after adjusting, then try again.
The front wheels (pads and calipers) will just about never bind, so concentrate on the rear wheels. If you do suspect the front wheels, release the bleeder valve for just a second and then try again.

Sometimes if your rear sensors are in the brake backing plates, you will get debris from the Emergency brake pads and this will affect the sensor count. As the wheel revolution is perceived to be different from one rear wheel to the other, the Traction Control system automatically activates and applies the brakes to make the wheel revolution match on both back wheels.

The Emergency brake linings can fall off of the shoes and create this problem. The brake pads in the front can also separate from the front discs and make the ABS warning illuminate.

Best have a Brake shop remove the rear brakes as they can be a pain to get off when the Emergency brake linings grind up.

You say you filled it with fluid after the repairs. You must also "bleed" the brake lines to purge any air that is trapped in them. Brake fluid provides the hydraulic compression that causes the brake pads to clamp to the brake rotor/drum. Air in the lines will prevent this as when the brake pedal is pressed, the fluid will simply pressurize the air in the lines and not activate the caliper/wheel cylinder. The reason you have front brakes is that modern vehicles have dual-reservoir master cylinders to prevent total brake loss in the event of a leak. This is why you still have front brakes as there is no air in those lines. You will need to bleed the rear brake lines at BOTH rear wheels to purge air rom the system. The procedure is fairly simple, though some cars with ABS have to have things done differently. I would recommend you check an online forum for you vehicle (simply Google "bleed rear brakes 20xx VW Golf) and see what comes up. It is easier to do with two people, but one can sometimes pull it off.

is brake pedal hard to push down without engine running ,if so proceed to step two and thats to start engine and then push on brake and if pedal softer to push then the servo is working ,now if excessive pedal travel with engine running then remove the rear drums ,make sure the outside lip is cleaned out and then adjust the brake shoes manually till they rub when you turn the drum ,this will cure it but remember that it has to bed in of course new pads brake disks ,new shoes and drums it has to bed in so give it a chance .

sounds like the flexable line close to the wheel is bad.
it has plastic inside it and when they get old the plastic breaks apart and plugs the line.

Brake Pads Removal & Installation Front

To Remove:

1. Drain brake fluid to ½ full level in reservoir.
2. Remove the front wheels.
   
   
3. Remove the front brake caliper assembly.
4. Remove the 2 anti-squeal shims from each of the 2 brake pads.
5. Remove the wear indicator from each of the 2 brake pads.

To Install:
NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced together with the pads.

1. Using a large C clamp or equivalent press piston into the caliper.
2. Apply disc brake grease to the inside of each anti-squeal shim.
3. Install the anti-squeal shims on each pad.
4. Install the pad wear indicator clip to the pads.
5. Install the pads with the pad wear indicator plate facing upward.
6. Install the brake caliper with the 2 mounting bolts. Torque the bolts 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
7. Install the front wheels.
8. Fill the master cylinder with new clean brake fluid.
9. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.

Rear TMC made rear brake components

TMMK made rear brake components

To Remove:

1. Drain the brake fluid to ½ full level in reservoir.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Remove the caliper slide pins.
4. Remove the caliper slide pin bushings (TMMK made) (Kentucky).
5. Remove the rear brake calipers.
6. Remove the 2 brake pads with the anti-squeal shims.
7. Remove the anti-squeal shims and pad wear indicators from brake pads.

To Install:

1. Using a large C clamp or equivalent press the piston into the caliper.
2. Coat both sides of the outer anti-squeal shim with pad grease.
3. Install anti-squeal shims to each pad.
4. Install wear indicators on the 2 brake pads.
5. Install the caliper slide pin bushings (TMMK made) (Kentucky).
6. Install the rear brake caliper with the slide pins. Torque the slide pins as follows:
   • TMC made (Japan): Torque the caliper slide pin 25 ft-lb (34.3 Nm)
   • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the caliper slide pin 34 ft-lb (47 Nm)
7. Fill the master cylinder with new clean brake fluid.
8. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
9. Install the rear wheels.

Brake Rotor Removal & Installation Front To Remove:

1. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the front brake caliper assembly.
3. Remove the front brake pads.
4. Remove the 2 bolts and caliper mounting bracket.
5. Place match marks on the disc and axle hub.
6. Remove the front wheel disc.

To Install:

1. Align the match marks and install the front disc.
2. Install the brake caliper mounting bracket. Torque the bolts 79 ft-lb (107 Nm).
3. Install the brake caliper. Torque the bolts 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
4. Install new gaskets and connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo fitting bolt. Torque the fitting bolt 22 ft-lb (29.4 Nm).
5. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
6. Bleed the brake system.
7. Install the front wheel.

Rear To Remove:

1. Remove the rear wheels.
2. Remove the brake caliper assembly.
3. Remove the brake pads.
4. Remove the 2 bolts and the caliper mounting bracket.
5. Place match marks on the disc and axle hub.
6. Remove the rear disc.

To Install:

1. Align the match marks and install the rear disc.
2. Install the rear brake caliper mounting bracket. Torque the bracket bolts as follows:
   • TMC made (Japan): Torque the bracket bolt 46 ft-lb (61.8 Nm)
   • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the bracket bolt 34 ft-lb (47 Nm)
3. Install the rear brake caliper with the slide pins. Torque the slide pins as follows:
   • TMC made (Japan): Torque the caliper slide pin 25 ft-lb (34.3 Nm)
   • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the caliper slide pin 32 ft-lb (43 Nm)
4. Install new gaskets and connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo fitting bolt. Torque the fitting bolt 22 ft-lb (29.4 Nm).
5. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
6. Bleed the brake system.
7. Install the rear wheel

Normally when the brake pedal goes almos to the floor it is an indication of low brake fluid. Low brake fluid is an indication that front and/or rear brakes are wearing. As the brake pads wear down more brake fluid will be required in the wheel cylinders or calipers. Hint, the front brakes usually wear much faster than the rear due to the fact that the fronts due a much greater braking function that the rear. Check the front pads. Don't let them get down to the metal scraping metal stage before you change them out. This causes unnessary damage to the rotors. Look at your master cylinder on the firewall under the hood in front of the steering wheel. If the fluid level is belowhte "max" mark add fluid. Low fliud should also show as a red "brake" light on your dash, but not always.

Its probably how your bleeding your brakes, but first make sure the bleeding nipples are facing upward. You should bleed diagonaly, front pass wheel then rear driver wheel. Then front driver wheel and rear pass wheel. The abs light has its own computer your have to get it scanned to clear the codes and turn off the light

Bad sensor in one wheel, they are part of the wheel bearing. Could also be a bad abs computer module, either way, not cheap.