SOURCE: Rough idle
Jeep has been having a problem with this. i take it u have a 4.7L or a 3.7L. when the when to fix this problem they should of replaced all the valves (intake and exhaust). theres a tsb on this and the dealer can look it up. even if you paid for the service they will fix it for free cuz it wasn't fixed the first time. take it back to the them and tell the to read the tsb and fix it right.
SOURCE: 2003 F-250 powerstroke
Could be one of many things:
-Clogged fuel filter
-Leaking fuel line
-Bad fuel pump
-High or low oil level
-Overdue oil change (Will explain both these possible causes later)
-Bad high pressure oil pump, ICP sensor (injection control pressure sensor), ICR (injection control pressure regulator), or bad HEUI injectors, or oil lines
-Leak in the high pressure oil system (unlikely because you would have noticed this... This does not go undetected as the underside of your vehicle would be literally covered in oil and dripping in a very short period of time after the leak develops)
(Powerstroke engines use a HEUI fuel injection system, "Hydraulically actuated/electronically controlled unit injection", which relies on a high pressure hydraulic pump that uses engine crankcase oil and pumps it at high pressure (500 psi or so). This oil is sent to your fuel injectors to provide means for actuating them and pressurizing the fuel into the cylinders. High or low engine oil level, or old, diluted, additive depleted oil will cause this system to aerate the oil and result in poor fuel injection capabilities)
There might be other causes but this is the Powerstroke`s weak point... The HEUI system was first designed by Caterpillar, which makes a lot of excellent/bulletproof HEUI based engines, both in passenger vehicle and heavy trucks and equipment. The Powerstroke is an engine designed and made by International Truck and Engine, which cannot seem to make a HEUI engine, in any market, whether passenger, heavy truck, or equipment that does not suffer from fuel injection issues.
SOURCE: 95 cadillac eldorado engine stalls rough idle check engine light is on
I have a 1994 Cadillac Eldorado and every time i start it the car has rough Idle and the Idle fluctuate's. I also can feel it in the gas pedal when the car is doing this I tried replacing the throttle body sensor but it still does it I also was told it was the Idle error sensor. So instead of spending the unecessary money again I thought I would go online and see if anyone could help me with this problem.
SOURCE: replaced Idle Air Valve and EGR Valve. Car still runs rough.
There is an *awful lot* of stuff that can cause a car to have hesitation on acceleration.
Have a *good* mechanic read the codes from your vehicle and do the diagnosis.
You might also suspect a crappy or clogged EGR valve.
Like the other post said, you could try buying some MAF cleaner and carefully spray the element inside of the MAF sensor with it according to directions ... that's pretty easy to do. But this only works for the "hot wire" type of MAF sensor. The cold-wire or any other type this will not be possible for.
On the chance that the MAF is contributing to the problem ... here's something you might try.
MAF sensors are very very VERY sensative. Any, and I mean ANY crack or air infiltration in the duct or housing that goes from your MAF sensor to the plenum will cause your car to have problems.
(that is, the section of the air ducting that is *behind* the MAF sensor... in other words, the section of black plastic or rubber ducting that is between the MAF sensor housing and your engine.)
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Clean the whole outside of the housing, ducting etc with hot water and something to cut the grease a bit like dishsoap , maybe a couple squirts of carb cleaner and rinse - dry it off with a towel (make it pretty)... this means the whole outside of the rubber or plastic tube or duct between the MAF sensor and the plenum (air intake) on the engine. Then, check that every band-clamp (hose clamp) or any other fastener on that ducting is properly tight ... tighten any that are not. Now get a big roll of duct tape or electrical tape and wrap tape around any and all areas of that run of ducting that has any possibility of being loose or cracked including at any joints ... wrap it as if you were trying to stop a leak from a hose ... round-and-round.
Importantly, if any of the ducting is the hard rubber type that has a sort of "accordion" appearance, duct tape that section where those ridges are really well ... this is a notorious place for hairline cracks.
Finally, hook the battery back up and restart the car ... make sure to drive it for a good 20 or so minutes so that the engine can make any accomodations to it's electronic controls.
If this does not help and you decide to go back to spray your MAF sensor off, you will obviously have to unseal/untape at the joints necessary to access the MAF sensor. (But FIRST make sure you have the hot-wire style MAF that this will work on, eh?)
You may in fact end up taking your tape job back off if it turns out not to be the problem ... but hey it's a shot.
SOURCE: HARD START SMOKING ROUGH IDLE NOW IT WON'T
some of the glow plug have had it, rough idle ,andsmoking after a hard start is typical symptom of some of the glow plugs not working.what happens then,is because you keep trying to start it,the remaining glowplugs get over heated with continuous heating up so they toss it in then it gets to the point where it wont start squirt some starter fluid ,or aerostart into th air cleaner and you will probablyfind it will start strait away if so anew set of glow plugs is in order ----"youdoit"
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