98 Ford F150 w/4.6l Wont start. Hear fuel pump click. Have pressure on fuel rail. Pulled #1 plug from head and plugged back into wire. Grounded plug and cranked. No spark. Changed wires 4 and 7 four days ago. Drove around and started fine. Had issue next morning. Started after a couple minutes. Drove over 1200 miles with no issues. Restarted many times. Got home and parked over night. Wouldn't start next day. Help!! Thanks!

Are you getting fuel pressure from the pump to the fuel rail? You need to do a fuel pressure test to determine if there is actually a fuel supply to the fuel rail. Is the vehicle getting spark? Have you removed a plug wire and grounded it out while cranking the engine over to test for spark? How did you come to the conclusion the fuel pump was bad? Was the fuel filter changed as well?

If the fuel pump/s continue to run with key on, suspect a relay issue. The relay is grounded by the vehicles computer. If the computer supplies a constant ground, the relay will continue to stay closed and power the fuel pumps constantly. If the the ground wire that comes from the computer to the relay is shorted/grounded, the relay will stay energized as well. As for the no start, are the injectors getting a power and ground supply? The ground side of the injector is controlled by the computer as well. Is the vehicle getting spark at the coil/plug? Have you scanned the computer for any trouble codes?

Try to determine if it is fuel or ignition related.
Turn key to on, do you hear the fuel pump turn on for a couple of seconds? It should come on briefly to pressurize the lines and fuel rail on the engine. Do you have fuel at the engine under pressure? Easiest and preferred way is to check fuel pressure with a pressure gauge at the test port on the fuel rail. With key on, pressure on mpfi systems should be 40-50 psi.
If there is gas in the fuel rail, test ignition by checking for spark on the end of a plug wire, with the engine cranking over. If you have a blue snapping spark, then ignition is probably good-may want to check more than one plug wire. Hold the metal terminal end of plug wire 1/4 inch from a ground on the engine, the engine block or a bolt or metal bracket. Verify a blue snapping spark, repeatedly, as the engine cranks. An orange spark, intermittent spark, or no spark points to an ignition problem. One thing you haven't changed is the ignition control module. This module, when signaled by the pcm, is what cuts the primary current to the coils for spark to be generated.

If you have both gas and spark, check the fuel injector circuit. Post back if you need help with that. There should be an injector fuse that needs checked. Also a fuse for the fuel pump, if no pump action, besides the fuel pump relay.

Check ignition and gas.

Listen for the fuel pump to come on for a couple of seconds with key ON. If you hear it, pump is working, check for gas at the fuel rail on top of engine. Should have gas under pressure.
If pump doesn't come on, check the fuel pump fuse, check fuel pump relay. Last, use a test light or voltmeter and check if the fuel pump wire has power to the gas tank connector when the engine is cranked over. If power there, fuel pump will need taken out and replaced. If no power at the pump, pump circuit needs checked.

Check ignition by checking for spark at a plug wire end. Pull off plug wire from spark plug, push the boot back so metal end terminal is exposed. Hold the end terminal 1/4 inch from a grounding source like a metal bracket or bolt on engine. Have a helper crank the engine over and watch for a spark-you need to see a blue snapping spark to know the ignition is good. Maybe wear gloves or use a heavy rag holding the wire-you can get shocked if not held close to a ground. Another way is to pull off the wire from plug, remove plug from engine, then re-attach plug to plug wire, and lay the plug on top of engine where the plug threads are touching metal-now the plug is grounded. You will not have to hold the wire. Have the helper crank the engine, while you watch for spark at the spark plug end. If you have a blue snapping spark, ignition is good. It is a good idea to check for spark on more than one plug wire-maybe another coil is not firing.
If your ignition is good, and you hear the pump come on, possibly a weak pump not putting out enough pressure- then check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Fuel injection requires high pressure, so the injectors will spray fuel out.
If still no go, scan computer for trouble codes. Check if your security or theft deterrent has immobilized the car.
Good luck.

No sounds like after it gets hot one of the 5 is going out Cam or crank sensor or fuel pump or fuel rail pressure regulator or fuel pump solenoid take it to autozone for free code reading get back to me.

Does the fuel pump run when the key is first turned? Should hear a buzzing/whining from under the bed of the truck. If not, check fuse and relay then check the fuel pump itself. If okay move to next.

Check all other fuel, ignition, pcm/ecm/ecu fuses. If no problems, then on to next.

Crank the truck over for a bit, then pull the spark plugs immediately, check for gas smell/wet sparkplugs.
- If wet, check for spark by cranking truck over with one plug out of engine attached to plug wire, with end of plug grounded against engine (careful not to get a shock when holding the plug).
- If dry, verify injectors are clicking when cranking (hold long screwdriver against injector body, and place ear against screwdriver while someone cranks over the engine). If clicking, check fuel pressure at rail. If not clicking, check ECU connections.

Are you sure you have correct timing? its definetly a fule problem, if timing is good then turn your key to the on position and try to listin for the fule pump to prime. While the key is in on position go to fuel rail, there is a valve on fule rail called sharader valve. Get a small screw driver and press valve in to check if car has fule pressure. if pressure is present then it is incorrect timing or possible bad cam sensor.

A typical engine needs mostly just gas and spark to run (besides air of course)
Sounds like the engine is not getting one or the other.

Fuel goes from fuel pump, to filter, to fuel pressure regulator, to fuel rail, to injectors.
You can test for fuel pressure with key on, at the fuel rail. There will be a test port on the rail that you can put a rag on top and push in the valve to see if there is pressure. (or use pressure tester)
If there is no pressure, check that fuel pump relay is working. (you can use an ohmmeter on relay to see if there is resistance). You can also test power to relay and to the pump with a voltmeter to see if pump is getting power. Or turn key to ON position and listen to see if you hear the pump turn on.

If you have no spark to any cylcinders, the crank shaft position sensor may be faulty which is very common in GM vehicles.

You can use an ohmmeter to test the sensor itself.
You can also get a spark plug tester to see if there is spark to each cylinder.
You can also remove one spark plug, plug back into plug wire, lay on top of engine so spark plug diode is 1/4" away from metal surface. Have someone else turn engine over while you look for spark. Do this to each cylinder.

first do you have spark. check coil,cap,rotor and points

check fuel pressure regulator