{: ) Check carefully your a/c compressor for possible seizures. It could also be related to the overheating. When the engine temperature rises to a critical level, it will also affect the operation of the a/c. The engine control module is programmed to protect the engine by disabling some functions that can worsen the situation. I suggest you focus first on the engine overheating issue and deal with the a/c concern later.
When checking for overheating, look for possible coolant leaks. The cooling fans will automatically operate when a/c is commanded on. But again as I suggest leave the a/c and begin first with engine operation. Check the engine belt and all the pulleys that it drives for stuck up r seizures. It can also be a bad water pump, or a thermostat. The cooling fans (a/c off) are designed to automatically operate at low speed or high speed when it reaches certain temperatures (turn on points like example 105 to 110 degC).
If the engine proved faultless, you may now proceed with the a/c system checks. It is possible that the a/c system is causing the engine to overheat, like a seized compressure,or a clogged a/c condenser.
The fact is that the overheating and a/c-not-kicking issue can be caused either way, but the results are the same. We need to determine if the engine overheat is affecting the a/c operation, or if the a/c is causing the engine to overheat. It will require careful inspection by you or with your trusted technician.
Good luck.
The A/C running or not has nothing to do with the cooling fans working or not, as a rule. Have a good A/C tech look at your system. As for cooling fan operation, the following will help explain how they work, or should work. COOLING FANS NOT RUNNING It is normal for the A/C air to warm up a little when stopped. Less airflow thru the condensor. It is normal for the engine temperature gage to rise up to about the 80% mark on its scale before the cooling fan kicks on. The gage will also show about the same reading on the first start of the day, until the thermostat opens. If the fan(s) are not working properly the A/C air and engine temperature will rise. If you have a belt driven clutch fan, the clutch may be worn out. All cooling fans kinda sound like miniature jet engines when its hot out, more so when the A/C is on. Replacing the clutch is all you can do for a belt driven fan. Electric fans are more complicated....
Check all main power electrical connections first.... Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery, and not from the other fan or anywhere else. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!
The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two or three of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. Two are hot battery power, and the third is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only two terminal's have power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both sensors.
Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find.
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