Driver side door was bent forward too much and now the door only closes when slammed. Once shut it there is a two inch gap at bottom of the door. How do i fix this or should I go to a body shop. If i do have to go to body shop, how much does it cost to fix on average?

I've had a strange issue with my drivers door the last week. I go out and unlock my door with wireless clicker. Then I reach in put the key in the ignition start the truck, make sure the defrost is on. Then I step away and slam the door, 'bump',,, I look back, the door did not click shut, again I slam the door 'bump'..it does not click shut. Bump Bump Bump...I try to shut it...then I reach in and push the lock/unlock button , lock/unlock...lock/unlock...on the door..click..click...it does beep or the horn toots..remember trucks key is in ignition , truck running, and I'm clicking the button on the inside of the door. Finally the door will shut and hold closed , once it was not locked,,,once it was shut and locked. I had to get my other set of keys to unlock the door.

Your description indicates the door hinges require adjustment. Usually the striker would be removed and the door hinges adjusted for easy closing and equal gaps. It is likely in your efforts to make the door flush with the front wing, mudguard or fender, the hinges are too far in. Most likely your replacement door is not identical to the original - not unusual for various reasons... Once the door hinges have been adjusted to provide a satisfactory position and closing the striker would be refitted and adjusted so it goes into the catch or latch dead centre - neither lifts nor pulls down the door as it closes. That is where the door needs to be and if it stands proud a little it is just bad luck - often the front fender can be repositioned and then the bonnet or hood readjusted. A competent panel beater would be able to tweak things for you to make them acceptable. It might have been better to fit a new latch to the original door.

You will be needing to find a helpful body shop and ask them to either adjust your hinges and latches, or, replace parts that are broken.
God bless your efforts.

When you try to open the door pull up on the door knob at the same time you push it. Body slam it if necessary. Once it's open replace the screws for the hinges with wood or deck screws 2 1/2 inch long and you'll never have that problem again.

There must be a way to get the inside panel off. Then you could see and work the handle levers. From the handles to the latching mechanism, small rods work them. They attach on both ends. You will be able to see how the handles trip the latch, then grab the right rod and pull or push it in the right direction to open the door latch. You can do it, hard to describe w/o seeing one, but all work similar. Little rods, that's all you need to know. Uh, well, getting the door panel off is the biggest hurdle. Several screws, some may be hidden, be patient, plastic pin type fasteners along the bottom and up the sides of panel have to be popped out-usually one about every 4-6 inches. Once you get it loosened up, you will easily find the rest of the attaching points. Lift the panel up from the window channel and away. Peel the plastic ("waterproof barrier") film off carefully. You will want it to get a good reseal when you are done. Now you can see the inner parts, and how the handles operate the latch.
Once opened, spray with a penetrant, check the door sill all around, check for visible reasons it stopped opening. Sometimes the rods get stretched or bent, and the handles won't work. Good luck, big "do not slam" sign on that door, okay?

Door pins are a common failure on that series of Blazer/S10's. Also, another point of contention that the door faces is a sticky latch. Basically, the door latch re-latches itself and when you shut the door into the catch, it slams into it and bounces off. An easy fix is a 3 part cocktail of brake parts cleaner. Open and shut the latch with a screw driver acting as the catch and your interior door handle a few times. P'Blaster, open and shut the door a few times with the screwdriver acting as the catch. Finally, a good shot of white lithium grease. Open and shut the door with a screwdriver as the catch several times. Once you feel it is un-stuck, actually close and open the door several times. If you notice the door rising every time it catches, you MUST replace the door pins (cheap fix). If the door still has issues, replace the door latch (and since you're in there, do some PM and replace the actuator as well).

try jaking the door up a couple of inches passed the body line then release the jack and it should line up close enough to close the door.by going past the body line it will bend the hinges back close to where they should be. hope this helps, as it has for me.

The short answer is yes, something could have bent when that gate was closed with the latch already closed. Look at the latch and make sure it wasn't jammed before you do a full replacement. If the latch is closed use a screw driver to open the latch while using the key to open the gate. Once you get the latch open try closing and locking the gate.

Is the seal correctly fitted? Does the door rattle when it is closed properly? Does it look like it is not properly shut when it is closed and if you push it from the outside is there a bit of give? If so your slam plate needs to be loosened and pushed in a bit to hold the door tighter, not too much or the door won't close at all. Another thing you can look for it a badly fitting window frame. If there is too much space between the car body and the window frame wind will whistle arond the gap. To see if that is the culprit, seal it with duct tape and take it for a ride. If that is the problem, open the door.wind the window fully down, stand between the car and the open door and carefully pull the top of the window frame towards you. If you can movw it in by 1/2 inch it will make an effective seal when the door is closed. Go carefully though.

check the door hing for up + down movement if so replace the door hinges