2006 Dodge Grd Caravan 3.3L Just replaced front pads... goes into fwd and rev but will not move, parking brakes release? Confirmed front wheel does rotate fwd and reverse. there a hydraulic lock or disc lock in the brake system.

all dodge caravans from 2002 through 2011 have known problems with sticking calipers. if you google caravan brake problems you will see all the complaints. there are TBI's and recalls on them. I have a 2005 dodge caravan in my garage with all 4 calipers locked up. It is a good idea to replace the brake pads with the best ones and new rotors to

If releasing the parking brake does not get the rear wheels to release, then you either have a parking brake cable that is badly corroded and sticking, or you have internal problems in the rear brakes like broken springs, etc that are jamming the brakes. You will have to inspect your rear brakes and paking brake cables to find out which it is.

You should be able to pull on the parking brake cable and get movement easily. It depends on if your Caravan is equipped with front disc and rear drum brakes or if it is equipped with 4-wheel disc brakes. If it has 4-wheel disc, then you could also have a bad rear caliper.

Yes, the most common mount to go bad is the front one behind the radiator, you would need to look from under the front of the car to locate it, a quick test to know would be to set parking brake and have someone put it in drive hold the brake and step on the gas some as you watch the engine move, and then do the same in reverse, you will see some movement in the engine but if the engine jumps up alot thats the bad mount, by doing drive and reverse the motor moves both ways and you will see if its a front mount or rear by the way the motor moves. for example if the rear of the engine jumps up you would know its a rear mount and the same goes for if the front of the engine jumps then a front mount would be bad. Take note even with parking brake on and brake pedal pushed van can still move so dont stand in frt or anything behind it. good day.

have you replaced the front and rear brake pads (for older vehicles, rear wheels use brake shoes instead of brake pads). if yes, check your calipers. completely remove it from your tire and have it cleaned.
if the problem still persists, then its time to replace your hydrovac

When you push the caliper piston in to install the new brake pads, you have to keep pumping the brake paddle after the new pads and every thing is put back together, the paddle will come back up, do it with the engine off.

remove the road wheel and inspect your brake pads or shoes, possibly worn down to metal

your exhaust pipe is rattleing near or at the convertor

Raise and secure on stands after breaking loose the lug nuts and parking brake on for front pads.. Remove wheels and spread old pads back to push cylinders back in their bores on calibers to allow for thickness of new pads. Remove the 2 sliding claiber retaining bolts and rotate caliber out of mount and secure with wire, boungie cord, or rope to take weight of caliber brake hose. Remove old pads, install new, and reassemble in reverse order. Lugs on alloy wheel should be torgued to 95 foot lbs. Block front wheels, release parking brake,and do the back ones the same way. After completing, pump brake pedal slowly several times to seat new pads. If you move the MPV without pumping first, you will have no brakes to stop. If brake fluid level is high in master cylinder, you will need to take some out first to make room for returning fluid from caliber pistons being returned to their bores prior to any brake work. Rotors should be replaced or turned if scored or warped to have better clapping of pads to rotor surface.

Try to shoot some WD-40 into the sheath that the cables slide in. Shoot it where the sheath ends at the back of the hub. Then work the cables by applying and releasing the brake. If they don't release, try pulling and working the sheath at the hub while adding more WD-40.

Hi, here is the step by step guide you requested. its a easy read and it will help you with this replacement procedure.

Step1 Park the Caravan on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Release the hood latch and apply the parking brake. Step2 Open the hood and **** out half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using the turkey baster. Discard the fluid appropriately. Do not reuse it. Replace the cap on the master cylinder. Step3 Break the lug nuts loose on the left wheel first using the breaking bar and a socket. Do not remove the lug nuts or loosen them too much. Step4 Lift the Caravan using the floor jack and place the lift point under the transmission bushing. Place a jack stand under the inside of the rocker panel in the left front where the frame is boxed. Do not place the jack stand on the rocker panel as it will most likely collapse. You can leave the floor jack in place as an added safety support, but make sure to use a jack stand. Step5 Remove the lug nuts and wheel. Step6 Remove the caliper bolts with the ratchet and a socket. Gently pry the caliper off of the rotor using the screwdriver. The pads are clipped to the caliper. Step7 Remove the outboard pad first by prying it off the caliper housing with the screwdriver. Remove the inboard pad by pulling it out of the caliper piston bore. Support the caliper to the coil spring using the bungee cord. Step8 Compress the piston in using the C-clamp. Squeeze slowly and steadily to avoid damaging the caliper piston. Step9 Install the new pads starting with the inboard pad. Since the inboard and outboard pads are identifiably different, there's only one way they will fit properly. There is a slight difference in the molding of the backing plates of the pads. Refer to the old pads you removed to make sure you're applying the pads for the left side. Step10 Apply a liberal coat of silicone brake lubricant on the caliper anchor where the backing plate of the pads sit against. Step11 Reinstall the caliper over the rotor. Step12 Apply a light coat of silicone brake lubricant to the smooth area of the caliper bolts. Insert it into the caliper to lock it to the caliper anchor. Tighten the bolts properly. Step13 Replace the wheel and lug nuts, tightening the lug nuts as tight as you can using the ratchet and a socket. Lower the Caravan and retighten the lug nuts in an alternate fashion using the torque wrench set at 100 foot pounds and a socket. Step14 Repeat the procedure for the right side. Step15 Pump the foot brake pedal when you're finished with the right side until the hydraulic pressure is restored to the caliper pistons and the brake pedal feels normal. Release the parking brake. Step16 Check and adjust the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Only add new DOT-approved brake fluid for your Caravan. Step17 Remove the wheel chock and test drive.


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