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you can isolate the motors and check them individually with a jump box or a older battery charger, these motors are pretty tuff, usually its the switch that gives up .
Voltage isnt the problem, the ground is. check the blower resistor, its a panel near the blower motor thats bolted nearby with 4 or 5 wires on it. Usually when it goes you lose 1 or more speeds, but high speed usually doesnt matter.
check to see if the motor is working by jumping it straight to the battery. If it does then its the temperature switch by the thermostat. If that isnt the problem, it can only be the relay. Check the wires for breaks
Check the connectors to the seat motor . They are usually a main attraction for corrosion. If corrosion not an issue use a voltmeter and check for B+ at this connection. If B+ is not here fabricate a set of jumper wires and jump them from battery to seat motor and see if motor works. Now jump them to seat switch.Whatever item the seat doesn't work by this jumping / bypassing procedure is your culprit. If after jumping the seats work, then go to the go to relay for B+, If not there go to fuse or power source ( use shop manual) keep me posted. Items of concern Connectors , motor, switch,relay, fuse. wiring in circuit.
first thing id do is to ceck the fuse. i know the switch checked out but thats the simlist solution. if its good then there are 2 motors on either side of the convertable top at the bottom. they might be hard to find but they will be behind some panels. just follow the top down and find which panels to remove. id say your motors are bad. i know it sounds weird that both could go out at the same time but i used to build convertable tops for the mitsubish spyders and ive seen them go bad after just 1 month. id unplug one of the motors and try to jump the connection to see if they are bad. if they are both in working order after that then id say you ave bad wiring somewhere from the switch.
either switch or notor have to test hopefully switch,have a play with the switch it may point to the problem,shouldnt be the motor in a 2003 car unless its jammed or had problems before causing it to burn out prematurely
Thanks for using FixYa. The possible causes due to which the blower is not working normally are fuse, blower resistor or a bad blower motor.Test the voltage at the blower with a test light. Please check the motor relay switch fuse under the dashboard. Use a multi meter to measure ohms for continuity. If these are fine, bypass the blower motor relay switch to make sure blower motor is running fine. Motor relay switch is right next to radiator fan relay switch under the hood. Pull out the blower motor relay switch to see 4 female pin holes. Test the relay switch using a 12 volts power source and a multi meter to measure continuity. If fan works after jumping the pin holes, then blower motor is fine but relay switch may be faulty. You may also need to replace the blower motor resistor. If still the problem persists, then you need to replace the blower motor.
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ya should have a fuse under the hood or its probly a relay and if the switch is bad you can by pass it temp to get it to close but dont do it long term or you will fry the wiring
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