Power pulse when i start the engine from cold i step on the gas, and the engine power pulses, almost as if its not getting fuel? I get no codes and already have changed fuel pumps and spark plugs. Also no drop in the fuel pressure line. If the engine is already warm from running, it does not have the problem.

Did you visually check for spark at the spark plugs, engine cranking? Does the dist rotor turn when you crank it? Did you use a gage and check correct fuel pressure? Any applicable trouble codes? To check codes, yourself, at the least, you need an obd2 code reader.

If you have the spider fuel system, that system is noted for problems. No, the fuel system shouldn't cause a no spark. If no rpm signal, that will usually stop the injector pulse along with other issues.

have you checked your fuel pump and fuel relay

Check the distributor cap and rotor.... If they look originial or if there's any moisture inside the cap, replace both of them.
Make sure that if you do replace them that theres no moisture in the distributor before putting new parts in.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_00b31cc8f593773a

Could be loosing power or pulse to the injectors. I would check for power and pulse ground at the injectors and see if you are loosing one or both.

Are the Injectors pulsing?

it might be your fuel pump. I gotta tell you though you shouldn't start changing parts at random. it will become a money pit

You need 3 things.
Compression
Good hot blue spark to all plugs.
Good gasoline and proper fuel pressure. 63-64 lbs.
If you have all 3 then move on to injector pulse to all injectors.
I think each injector is on a separate driver on that one.
Check for pulse to all of them.

You may be weak on fuel pressure . even a couple of lbs low on a cold start will cause a no start.
Double check cold start cranking fuel pressure. If under 63-62 lbs you have problems.
one test is to give it a squirt of carb cleaner not starting fluid. If it starts then you have a fuel pressure problem.
Run the full fuel pressure test and post back pressures.
Here is the guide lines on testing.
Hard to start cold.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak.

The 75-85 is only a check on the capable full pressure of fuel pump.
If you can not find the rubber return line check full pressure by plugging return line or just or the true full pressure can be taken direct at the end fuel filter.
What are the pressure readings that you have done.
What are your cold start pressure readings?
Post back what you have.

The other thing to that is common is the (ICM) under the distributor cap. There is a breather screen on the bottom of the distributor that get's clogged with dirt causing condensation promoting corrosion, this was gm TSB for replacing the cap and rotor to make sure it's clean.

Good luck and hope this helps. Merry Xmas.

i would check for any LOOSE OR MISSING GROUND WIRES that were originally bolted to either the bellhousing/starter bolts or if the wiring harness that runs over the tranny and connects to tranny switches has been cut/damaged. you would be suprised how many problems can occur because of bad/ missing grounds!!

On Saturn car it turned out to be a coolant temp. sensor so look there. simple 12 dollar sensor that screws it all up. So i would say look into a coolant temp. sensor

You should have your battery checked, it may be getting old and doesn;t have as much cold cranking power, I don;t think code 32 has anything to do with the slow cranking when cold.


Trouble Code 32 indicates that the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve diaphragm is not where the ECM expects it to be. The ECM controls the diaphragm with a Pulse-Width Modulated (PWM) waveform. The EGR has a vacuum bleed solenoid that adjusts the vacuum applied to the EGR valve based on this pulse width. If there is sufficient vacuum at the EGR valve, a switch closes to send a signal back to the ECM. The absence of this signal is the bases for code 32.
The conditions for setting this code are:

• no vacuum to EGR (switch open), and
• Code 33 or 34 (MAF error) is not present, and
• engine running and LV8 is less than 100, and
• coolant temperature is > 118 deg F (48 deg C), and
• the EGR solenoid duty cycle is < 65%, and
• the above conditions are met for more than 25 seconds

Typical causes for this code include:
1) Faulty EGR valve-to-ECM connection
2) Plugged EGR passages and/or sticking EGR valve
3) Defective EGR valve
4) Defective ECM