Master power window switch for 2000 Jetta 1.6 Comfortline

go see a brake shop let them fix it

Make sure the Master Lockout button isn't ON.
There will be a different power source for Windows and Locks
You will still need to start by checking the fuse
Your Owner's Manual should have a decent description of location of that fuse.
Also keep in mind that a 2000 is 15 years old and lots can happen.
See if: 1. Door open or closed - and which door - makes a difference (that may indicate a damaged wire in door harness - Jam area)
2. Wiggle or hold down the "Window Lock" button to see if that is an issue (Master switch problem)
If all the windows don't work then start with the above - it is most likely associated with power or ground to the switch. You will probably have to physically remove the switch to check circuits at the switch connector.
Let me know what you find
Thanks

look for a broken wire inside the boot between the door and body

Check for broken wires inside the rubber boot from the body to the driver door . Happens all; the time ,wires breaking . Also you should have check for B+ voltage at the master switch before replacing .
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THERE CAN BE SEVERAL DIFFERENT ISSUES THAT WILL CAUSE THIS PROBLEM. 1. DID THEY ALL STOP WORKING AT THE SAME TIME? 2.IF THEY DID, I WOULD CHECK FOR A BROKEN WIRES IN THE WIRE HARNESS BETWEEN THE DRIVERS DOOR AND FENDER AREA. YOU CAN SEE THIS HARNESS WHEN YOU OPEN THE DOOR. KEEP ONE FINGER ON THE WINDOW BUTTON GOING DOWN AND THE OTHER HAND ON THE WIRE HARNESS AND WIGGLE IT UP, DOWN, IN AND OUT. IF THE WINDOW MOVES THE HARNESS NEEDS TO BE REPAIRED. IF THAT DOESN'T WORK TRY- 3. DEFECTIVE MASTER WINDOW SWITCH. IF THAT DOESN'T WORK TRY- 4. ASK THE DEALER IF THIS CAR HAS A GEM OR BODY CONTROL MODULE THAT HAS TO BE RELEARNED.

If you remove the mass air flow sensor then the car is getting to much air and the reason that it is dying is that the ECU is set for the engine to run with a specific air to fuel ratio, and if you have removed the breather element. or air filter then that can cause the slow or sluggish acceleration.

Are you sure the side window lockout switch located on the drivers master switch isn't on? This will kill power to the other three switches.

If your sure its not on than the I would pull the left rear window switch. There will be two dark blue wires one of them should have power all the time. If neither have power than I would pull the drivers master switch and see if there is power at the dark green wires (one will only have power with the left rear window switch in the up position.

If those are good than check the dark blue wires. one will only have power with the drivers front window switch in the up position. the other should have power all the time. If there is power there than you have a broken wire somewhere. The first place I would look is in the rubber boot in between the drivers door and the body of the vehicle.

If there is no power that the switch is bad.

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safety switch on brake pedal. common cause is a wire breaking off. there are 1 to 2 wires going to this switch. It is located on the brake pedal bracket above the foot pad.

on top of brake pedal there should be a switch. wire going on it, diconect plug turn and remove switch fit new one and reconnect plug

Sounds like brake master cylinder not relieving the pressure or if fitted the bias valve.How do you get it to unbind?Because its not consistant its hard to lock it down to a specific cause.If it isnt faulty when testing its impossible to diagnose.The problem seems to be getting worse so the fault will eventualy be able to be locked to a cause.If you have Abs the previous brake disc pad replacement may have been done incorrectly and messed with the abs or a wheel sensor could be faulty and the abs is once again being affected.