both rear lock?
that be you did them both wrong?
there are adjustements that need to made
and checks,not just slam in pads
the FSM book covers how to do it right ever consider reading that first then act?
pistons in calip, no seized,
caliper slider pins seized.
emg. brake, mechansim stuck
emg, brake, not adjusted after all done, per FSM!
brake pedal rod not adjusted, right for clearance to master cylinder (risks 4 wheel lockup)
icing of parts, got ICE? we cant guess ice, and not stated.
wrong pads, or put in wrong, or with shims wrong.
more,sure,, why not get the brake man to fix this.> now since car is danger to all, you and others on road.
Fuse box on my W-9 was under the hood on the firewall, yours may be in a similar location. However, after a hard winter's driving, I usually had one or more corroded wires in the rear exposed wiring harness, corroded connector or light assembly to repair due to the salt and calcium chloride they put on the roads eating up the wire covering and shorting out the wiring.
YES IT COULD BE, BEST TO JACK VEHICLE UP AND SPIN WHEELS TO SEE IF THEY ARE BINDING. IF SO CHECK CALIPERS WHERE PADS FIT SEE IF SEIZED ON SLIDERS. ALSO CHECK FLUID LEVEL IF TO HIGH THE FLUID CAN NOT RETURN WHEN NOT PRESSED + SEE IF ITS BLACK FLUID NOT CLEAR, SIGNS OF CYLINDER FAILIURE
Most likely, the caliper is stuck on its support pins and fails to slide on these anymore. (The amount of sliding moton, when the brakes are appplied, is very small.) When the caliper is frozen" on the pins, one brake pad wears much more than the other, and puts undue side thrust the rust on the rotor. This is a common problem in the "rust belt" where road salt is present (and yes, it can happen over just one winter season). If everything else about the caliper assembly is ok, the fix is to install new pins, bushings, pin seals, and brake pads. Also, lub the pin parts with appropriate grease at assembly.
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