Air conditioning

Your seals probably dry rotted and failed. After that long parked and not running, you will probably experience quite a few problems. Cars need to be ran around a couple times a month to keep stuff working and not dry rot or collect corrosion from being exposed to the elements and temperature/humidity changes.

It sounds like you may have a slight heater core leak and when you turn on your air, it's simply "stirring up" the smell. I've never seen this issue ina Focus but i have in a '97 Bonneville. The heater core is located behind the dash and requires complete dash removal to locate. It's a rough job to tackle alone. A lot of shops can run a "leak test" where they run a pink dye through your A/C system and see if it leaks anywhere. You may simply have a dry-rotted hose or bad seal. But my bet is the heater core, as thats the only place antifreeze enters the interior of a vehicle. Try smelling up under the dash on the passenger side and see if the smell exists there. If so, it's a heater core leak. Hope this helped!

I suspect you have some loose connections or shorts in the wiring harness. I've had similar strange things happen with an Olds Bravada. Various transmission shifting problems, faults, etc. that all seemed to come from the engine's computer system getting incorrect voltages and readings due to wiring faults/shorts.

One quart per month is a bit more than I'd expect but you didn't mention how many miles you drive during that month.If you live where the ambient temps are very warm, it may help to use a good synthetic. Synthetic oils do not burn off or break down chemically as fast as conventional oils do. I'd use a 20w40 grade.
Depending on the miles you've driven you shouldn't have excessive ring wear but the valve stem seals may have dried out and cracked. If the usage remains constant and there is no smoking etc, you could either leave it alone or have new seals installed.
Average driving is approximately 1,000 miles per month so when figuring consumption, use that as a baseline. One quart per 1,000 miles in very hot conditions is a bit high....I'd expect to see 1/2 qt or slightly less. One odd thing though is that generally, especially in an engine that holds six quarts to begin with, at five quarts, the engine should not feel any different!!!
Also.....you use miles to determine oil change intervals. Oil is best changed at between 3K and 4K miles. Only way you use the 3month method is if you don't use it much. (you can run most good synthetics longer than that)

{: ) Some exterior lamps, such as cornering, turn signal, backup, headlamps or tail lamps may exhibit very small droplets of water, a fine mist or white fog (condensation) on the inside of the lamp lens. This may be more noticeable on lamps with "multi-lens" designs and may be normal during certain weather conditions. Condensation occurs when the air inside the lamp assembly, through atmospheric changes, reaches the "dew point". When this takes place, the moisture in the air within the lamp assembly condenses, creating a fine mist or white fog on the inside surface of the lamp lens.
Most exterior lamps on General Motors vehicles use a vented design and feature a replaceable bulb assembly. They are designed to remove any accumulated moisture vapor by expelling it through a vent system. The vent system operates at all times, however, it is most effective when the lamps are ON or when the vehicle is in motion. Depending on the size, shape and location of the lamp on the vehicle, and the atmospheric conditions occurring, the amount of time required to clear the lamp may vary from 2 to 6 hours.
Completely sealed headlamp assemblies (sealed beams) are still used on a limited number of models being manufactured today. These lamps require the replacement of the complete lamp assembly if a bulb filament burns out.

If moisture or droplets appear after being exposed to rain or washing, you can try putting some weather seals on the edges where you think the seal is poor. Check also the headlamp caps. In any case, if the moisture doesn't clear no matter what drying approaches, better replace the assembly.
The bulbs won't cause the moisture, but it is possible that an accumulated moisture on the bulb itself can disable it, although rare.