Plymouth Cars & Trucks - Page 3 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

only if loose. why not torque it spec, then know yourself the answer>>? Where did you see timing off, doing what with what or how?spark timig or a new cam chain or getting CKP sensor errors?

If there is no heater control valve visable on heater hoses ,then it does not require one. heater core could be stopped up. flush the inlet and outlet with a water hose,and bleed coolant system.

Timing could be 180 degrees out Check there is spark at no one on compression stroke

a/c check if need freon -fuse relay and switch

Chrysler Town and Country P0700 Transmission Control System - Malfunction ' Drivetrain Resource (700r4transmissionhq.com) P1775 CHRYSLER Solenoid Switch Valve Latched In TCC Position (autocodes.com) P1775 - Chrysler Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Definition, Causes and Diagnosis (dtcdecode.com) 2000 Dodge Caravan Codes P1775 & P0700 Does this NEED to be repaired asap? My mechanic said not to mess with it... P1775 (justanswer.com) 2-1 rough downshift, fault code P1775... - Page 2 - DodgeForum.com P0700 is a generic transmission code a code reader which reads transmission codes will narrow the code down. P1775 may be from a transmission code reader. found some info on it above.

you dont have one

best thing you can do is go see a transmission shop and have them look for the problem .

not really have no repair manual for them SORRY

I see a few things in the image, but nothing that looks like a 'nipple'. Water hose are terminated with a hose clip. The cheap ones a purely an overlapping spring with two bands. You squeeze them together and open it up an slip it over the pipe. They are terrible, but they are cheap. The other sort have two wire bands with a nut and bolt, they are a bit better. The best sort is a screw hose clip, called 'jubilee clips', or 'terry clips' in the UK. The fully clips the pipe and you can tighten them as much as you need. https://www.jubileeclips.co.uk/product/mild-steel/122/1a-ms-30mm/ What I do see in that image is a metal end plug. That looks to be connected to an aluminium casting. If that is leaking, you need some plumbers PTFE tape. Remove the plug, clean the threads, put 4 turns of the tape around the plug threads and screw it back in. It may have a fibre washer and you can get those as well. https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.seawaypoolsntubs.com%2Fshop%2Fproduct%2Fttape ..

Here is one; https://www.classiccarwiring.com/1950-plymouth-cars-color-wiring-diagram/

Age ;). But seriously, is car leaking or burning oil? Do you see any oil under car? Clean engine and try to locate when it comes from. There are many possibilities. From valve cover gasket to pinhole in oil pan or leaky seal on oil filter or drain plug.

Cindy your switch could be bad as could be your blower motor. I would run a hot wire directly to the blower motor first. If it runs the switch us probably bad. If it doesn't run the blower motor is probably bad.
Those are the two easiest to check and the most common to go bad since the fuse is good. Hope this helps you. If you want you can let me know what you find.

What is battery voltage with engine running? How long does it take to drain enough to prevent starting?

A 1990 Plymouth will likely not have parasitic power requirements. With ignition in off position the battery current should be zero (0.00 amps).

So using a current probe or shunt, with ignition switch in the off position, systematically remove fuses to identify the circuit draining the battery. Likely you'll find some after market add on (radio etc.) that is not installed properly.

Comment here with results and someone will assist further.

Check Idle Air Control solenoid.

You should have fuses for them and probably relay for blower . Check fuses, relay and check for power to your equipment. Check the bulb, power to and ground at the bulb. Check fuse to radio and power to radio. Check blower relay and fuse if it has one and power at blower. Did all this go out at the same time. If they did was some work going on which could have created wiring or short in wiring issues. The link below is for a 98 but some of it may be the same. If you have question about which fuse check them all but if you pull them out do one at a time. Try running the blower motor in all setting, sometimes the resistor will go out and the blower may only work in the highest setting. https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t16702_ds678813

You are getting a fault message from the PCM that the wrong ignition key was used. This is part of the vehicle's onboard security system. This is part of the immobilizer system.

Check this Repair Manual
It will help you to fix your car
https://www.reliable-store.com/products/1999-plymouth-voyager-workshop-service-repair-manual?_pos=3&_sid=f08dd4c59&_ss=r

Copy the link and paste in the browser

There are many reasons why an engine should spit back through the carb. I once encountered a Ford that had a worn exhaust lobe on the camshaft so the valve was barely opening - the engine ran very well until the throttle was opened. It is still a huge mystery how the owner had managed to drive it to my workshop. The most common reason is a lean air/fuel mixture caused by one or more carb jets being blocked. A thorough carb clean is a sizeable task that shouldn't be undertaken lightly and it is best practice to tackle it last after ensuring everything else is as the manufacturer intended it to be - from spark plugs and spark power/quality, timing, valve operation, fuel delivery quantity and pressure, etc., etc.

Mineral and vegetable oil brake fluids became obsolete many years ago apart from a very few exceptions and these were replaced by a universal glycol based type which is virtually the only type available from the majority of retailers. Early glycol fluids had a relatively low boiling point and have been replaced by types with higher boiling points so currently there is generally two types available - in Europe these are DOT 4 and Dot 5. DOT 4 is suitable for all clutch and brake systems (apart from a few exceptions) of low and medium performance vehicles and DOT 5 for the braking systems of high performance vehicles. Most people most of the time find DOT 4 a better all-round fluid and because the information surrounding DOT 5 (and 5.1) tends to be vague and suggests at least some are silicone based which can be harmful to some hydraulic seals. The main problem with glycol based fluids is many braking hydraulic systems are vented to atmosphere and the fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs atmospheric moisture which lowers the boiling point. This is why a brake fluid change is part of the modern service and maintenance schedule.

here is no switch.However, it does have an ASD relay (ASD = Auto Shut Down) that controls both spark and fuel. This relay on your car is in the fuse/relay block under the hood and should be clearly marked as "Shut Down" or "ASD" on the fuse/relay chart on the cover. These are easy to check since there are often several different relays that are the same in that block. Take one from a known good source such as A/C (just make sure the numbers printed on the top of the relay are the same) and swap them to see if it will start.