An engine will have an injector for each cylinder it has. So a four cylinder has four, a six cylinder has six and so on.
If it has been stood unused for that long the first issue could be the fuel. Fuel over time can go bad and leave a varnish like coating on the fuel system parts. Drain any fuel in the system and tank and SAFELY dispose of it then refill with fresh fuel.
What EXACTLY does it do when you crank it? Just winding and no attempt to fire is often a spark issue. Cranking and trying to start is probably a fuel supply issue.
A simple starting point is a basic service on the vehicle. Fresh spark plugs and a new air and fuel filter with the fresh fuel should make a difference. Only remove ONE plug lead at a time to avoid mixing them up and keeping the firing order correct.
Before removing the first spark plug crank the engine for 2 to 3 seconds. Then with the ignition key out remove the first spark plug and smell it. if the injector is working you should smell fuel. Refit spark plugs gently by hand and don't over tighten them to avoid stripping the threads out.
When cranking do it as lots of 2 to 3 second bursts as this doesn't flatten the battery as fast. It might take a few attempts cranking to pull the fresh fuel through to the injectors.
Use the comment button below if you need any more help.
As the two systems are not connected in any way, I would call it an odd coincidence. The power steering is a hydraulic mechanical system that routs fluid pressure created by the power steering pump and signals are input from the steering shaft to the rack n pinion. And the wipers are electric mechanical that takes the power from the electric wiper motor controlled from the wiper switch to the wiper transmission which moves the wiper arms.
Question edited for clarity full year make model, 'set/sit' misuse.
Question moved to sub category.
For a fault like that, it can only be diagnosed by an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool to record live data when it quits. You are the only person to have this issue on that make and model.
Sounds like the earth has parted from the engine and it may have taken a few fuses with it.
An Auroelectrician should be able to fix it easily, subject to parts availability of course.
The oil light would come on because the engine stopped and there was no oil pressure.
Crankshaft Sensors come in various qualities. The ones make in China and Mexico have a history of failing and even being faulty at new. Always buy OEM quality, on a Plymouth, probably Delco.
Ideally you need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool. They come in qualities too. You can get one for $125 but the pro tech pays $5,000. The difference is astounding. As you have *multiple* misfires, I reckon your CPS is the issue or the connector to it..
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/find/plymouth-breeze-crankshaft-position-sensorhttps://www.google.com/search?q=1997+plymouth+breeze%2C+OEM+crankshaft+position+sensor
..
GV = Grand Voyager, sure, 3.3L sure V6 , the baby brother to my Jeep V6, 3.8L
Heads up the car has computer brain cluster. CCD bus networked
The speedo only works if the cluster tells it the live data from PCM
or fuses top cluster not blown (JB Fuse 2 not blown) or tranny VSS sensor is dead. (veh,speed, sensor) sorry no VSS ever killed any engine,!speed is MPH. live.
the car is old, and most cars that old have lots of hard failures
and were ignored, until the day of TOO MANY HAPPEN.
like the the adage, "the straw that broke the camels back" relived.
first off , my answers are USA only, except above.
1996 is the EPA year of new OBD2 PCM the runs the engine.
that means any scan tool here ,EVER MADE, works here.
16pin under dash OBD2 DLC jack
check all fuse first. cab and engine bay, all means ALL.
there are 50- causes of cranks but no starts. or stalls
I will not go and list 50 bad parts, I will assuME you want to do tests. and will even buy tools (meters and gauges) to do so.????
most folks posting here only want guesses from the blind. sadly./
and to scan the PCM first (next after fuses checked) ok?
there are 3 game plans besides sell it dead.
1: do the tests
2: get shop to do it.
3: OR GUESS AND GO BROKE,
ONLY YOU KNOW YOUR GAME PLAN , AND NOT TOLD YET
In a real shop that loves his customers.
they will do the tests, and even do extra tests.
what if the tech run a full compression test and told you it fails.
or is near failing and will fain soon after he fixed that caused this engine dead now>>??? see how that works? He is your friend
(as in gee the repairs are over the value of the car now, dead)
$3700 running used and far less not. $1500?(econ 101 decisions)
Lets DO IT:
now the tests using tools. (100 years the same )
1: the compression test must pass over 150psi
the readings are done WOT, spark out and fully charged battery
wide open throttle , the readings are based 2 factors.
WOT wide open throttle or close. MUST HAVE AIR TO COMPRESS , the engine is and AIR PUMP.
varies,(engine good) by the CR of the engine, (compression ratio)
and the ALTITUDE, (if under 500 feet) we know what it reads for sure. a LEAK down test tool , is great too ,got shop Air?
I have all 3. and do both tools but on all DOHC engine I do only leak down. and off topic here.
so if that old engine (no miles told) is good??????
what comes next. if scan tool told you spark is dead it is.
we test spark on all 6 not just 1.
are the spark plus 27 years old "OOPS
and last if fueling test. did the scans show a shorted injector?
fuel pressure is tested and most cars this old the FPR is no god
fuel pressure regulator(oops in the tank at pump , sadly)
MOST PERSONS CRYING COMPRESSION TESTS ARE NO GOOD
NEVER EVER DID IT THE CORRECT WAY OR
DID NOT COMPENSATE FOR ALTITUDE IN DENVER. CO.
ASK HOW, DO KNOW HOW.
NO THE LEAK TEST AND THE COMPRESSION TEST WILL
NOT FIND A BAD CAM LOBE. 1/2 GONE. SORRY WILL NOT!
IF FINDS BAD RINGS AND VALVES BENT/STUCK/OR BURNED, OR STUCK AND WARPED HEADS. valve spring broken happens
THE CYLINDER TO CYLINDER EQUALITY TEST IS SUPER GOOD. AS THE SHOP MANUAL STATED!
checking fuel pressure to spec, is last .
now watch scotty do the tests. (hoping engine is good,he IS)
watch him, the tests are simple and if lucky ,bingo.
https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg
my 3.8L does180 psi on all 6,near the same 90k on the clock
150 is good point ,,never 90.
