Plymouth Cars & Trucks - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals
1997 Plymouth Voyager left blinker, radio ,blower 4 air conditioner not working
You should have fuses for them and probably relay for blower . Check fuses, relay and check for power to your equipment. Check the bulb, power to and ground at the bulb. Check fuse to radio and power to radio. Check blower relay and fuse if it has one and power at blower. Did all this go out at the same time. If they did was some work going on which could have created wiring or short in wiring issues. The link below is for a 98 but some of it may be the same. If you have question about which fuse check them all but if you pull them out do one at a time. Try running the blower motor in all setting, sometimes the resistor will go out and the blower may only work in the highest setting.
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I have 1 1996 Plymouth voyager what type of brake fluid do I use?
Mineral and vegetable oil brake fluids became obsolete many years ago apart from a very few exceptions and these were replaced by a universal glycol based type which is virtually the only type available from the majority of retailers.
Early glycol fluids had a relatively low boiling point and have been replaced by types with higher boiling points so currently there is generally two types available - in Europe these are DOT 4 and Dot 5.
DOT 4 is suitable for all clutch and brake systems (apart from a few exceptions) of low and medium performance vehicles and DOT 5 for the braking systems of high performance vehicles. Most people most of the time find DOT 4 a better all-round fluid and because the information surrounding DOT 5 (and 5.1) tends to be vague and suggests at least some are silicone based which can be harmful to some hydraulic seals.
The main problem with glycol based fluids is many braking hydraulic systems are vented to atmosphere and the fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs atmospheric moisture which lowers the boiling point. This is why a brake fluid change is part of the modern service and maintenance schedule.
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Does a 99 Plymouth breeze havean inertia switch to shut fuel off
here is no switch.However, it does have an ASD relay (ASD = Auto Shut Down) that controls both spark and fuel. This relay on your car is in the fuse/relay block under the hood and should be clearly marked as "Shut Down" or "ASD" on the fuse/relay chart on the cover. These are easy to check since there are often several different relays that are the same in that block. Take one from a known good source such as A/C (just make sure the numbers printed on the top of the relay are the same) and swap them to see if it will start.
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I have a 1999 Plymouth breeze and just replaced the rear brake lines and can't get them to bleed
1. Use a turkey baser to remove all the fluid from the reservoir. It's likely empty already if you did rear lines. Also, pack rags under the reservoir to catch spills.
2. Use a brake line wrench to crack the bleeder valve. (not OPEN, just see if it moves) Attach a 2' pc of surgical tubing to the bleeder. Run it into a jar. Pour 1" of fluid into the jar. I like to duct tape the jar to a board to prevent spills. Tape the tubing to the jar too.
3. Have a buddy sit in the driver seat. Have them tap-tap and hold steady pressure on the brake pedal. (you don't have to KILL it) When they say "K!", you open the bleeder. Note the passage of air bubbles and fluid into the tube. After about 4 seconds, close the bleeder and repeat. The first wheel will take a WHILE. Each after will be a bit quicker. Watch the accumulation and quality of fluid in the jar for a clue as to how you are progressing.
4. Top off the reservoir and repeat for the next wheel. Bleed, RR, LR, RF, LF (generally. some cars vary).
The pumper buddy must know NOT to drive the pedal past the normal distance or else he'll damage the master cylinder and it will have to be replaced. Also, he must know NOT to lift his foot before you close the bleeder, else he'll draw air back into the system. Just keep steady pressure. He'll feel the pedal drop as you open the bleeder each time. Takes PATIENCE.
They sell vacuum bleeders, but they suck. They're cheap tho.
They sell pressure bleeders and they are GOOD if you can find one to fit your car. They're expensive tho, like $60. MOTIVE makes one (I have it). These work by pressurizing the reservoir. That way you can bleed without a buddy. There's two methods with these. You can pour the fresh fluid into the pump and do the whole car without stopping. I find it messy. I like to top off the res and pressurize each wheel. MUCH cleaner.
Both systems work fine tho.
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