Plymouth Acclaim - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 7

Have cooling system flushed properly which should improve circulation through heater core at idle, or low rpms. I usually flush heater core with C.L.R. (calcium, lime, rust remover) from hardware store before re-filling cooling system by removing hoses to core at firewall, and hook up to a small drill driven pump (also available at hardware store for approx$10). I use that to circulate it through core, and reverse hoses and pump it through in both directions, then let it sit in core overnight if at all possible, just for better cleaning. Drain it next day after circulating a little more, and re-fill cooling system. Be sure to leave rad cap off and heater turned on when re-filling coolant, and allow rad fan to come on and off 2 or 3 times before topping up and putting rd cap back on to be sure all air out of system. Should see improved heat at idle.

Look from under rad support if you can for a plastic (looks like ears) plug to twist and pull/wiggle. Usaully on passenger side area or end of rad. If all else fails, I find it easier to slowly remove lower hose.

If that is a 2.5L you probably don't have one. What exactly are the symptoms you are experiencing?

Use a self drilling bolt of close to same size and put beside location where broken bolt is, or drill hole beside or close to old one and install new bolt/nut/washer.

The unit is located under the dashboard most likely under the driver side sometimes it is under the passenger side sometimes it's under the hood it depends on what vehicle that you have with modelmaking year please respond with more detailed information about the vehicle and we will respond promptly thank you

And check if any coolant got in the transmission. Have it professionally flushed if it did, or your transmission won't last long.

Use a bottle of yellow HEET dry gas to remove any moisture problem in the fuel. Clean / replace air filter. Top off ATF to MAX level.

Typical seat has seat belt sensor connect under set. Few bolts to bolt it down.

ADD ATF and re-test. If the transmission filter is over 2 years old then replace transmission filter and ATF

Use a bottle of yellow HEET dry gas to remove any moisture problem in the fuel. Clean / replace air filter. Top off ATF to MAX level.

On the outer rim of the engine bell housing. It has the largest positive RED cable attached to it.

You will need a friend to help you. Move gear selector between P-R-N-D-3-2-1 Identify the source. Top off the ATF fluid and re-test. If the transmission filter and ATF is over 2 years old then you should replace them. Please reply with the finding.

Use a bottle of yellow HEET dry gas to remove any moisture problem in the fuel. Clean / replace air filter. Top off ATF to MAX level.

Use a bottle of yellow HEET dry gas to remove any moisture problem in the fuel. Clean / replace air filter. Top off ATF to MAX level.

Pull it back out, (Radio) and recheck your steps. Something is not hooked up right. When you pull it back out, See if it goes back working normal. Retrack the wires. You cut are hook up something wrong????

If you have ran the car since, you could ruin the entire engine, you would need to remove every part of the fuel system and clean it out and take the top end of the engine apart and get it cleaned too. it should will cost a lot of money I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/brock_d67526d2a834c47e

run fault codes to determine the sensors that are causing the problem