Top 20 2006 Chevrolet Chevrolet Uplander Questions & Answers

Could be a leaking injector or fuel pressure regulator.

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Here is a link to the owner's manual so you can look it up. Fuse information starts on page 406 of the pdf file. https://my.gm.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2006/chevrolet/uplander/2006_chevrolet_uplander_owners.pdf

Code B0428 is for the rear temp actuator. Code B3532 is for the rear mode actuator for the HVAC unit

Did you replace the fuel filter? Why do you think the old pump went bad? But you could also have a stuck purge valve. If you hear a hiss when you open the gas cap, then replace the purge valve.To decide if the fuel system is still the problem, it would seem to me you need to put a fuel pressure gauge on the injector rail. I think it should be around 32 psi. When you rev the engine, it should go up a few psi. If it is high or low, it could be the fuel pressure regulator, which is also the return valve.However, it could also be something unrelated, like a vacuum leak from the intake manifold or a vacuum hose that fell off.

pop any trim and remove bolts, remove the seatbelts that r bolted in the center. Unplug ur wiring and lift out.

resevoir for what? power steering? brake? windshield washer fluid? rdiator over flow ?

How about fuel filer?

I would still check the battery to make sure it has the correct amount of amperage it would need for the starter, if that checks out good, Sounds like you have a ground problem at the starter, power issue at the starter or the starter is bad

Mechanic may have been careless placing pump back into the gas tank.

Remove hose from thermostat and then there are 2/3 bolts holding it to the housing unit. It is a very simple thing to do but if you dont know how , may I suggest you let a qualified person do the work. Hope that helps

It may be a resistor assembly problem. Hi speed doesn't use a resistor, the lower speeds do. Also, Check applicable fuses.

If you go to Autozone or Sears, they will do that for you, free,at Autozone, and free at Sears, if you buy the battery there. Hope this helps.

Check the belt tension on the alternator belt, belt may need replacing. Also the battery may be week, so have that 'load' tested. Most batteries don't last more than 5 years

Could be a stuck flap inside the heater box not exactly sure where the box is normally its behind the dash I'm sure someone on here could explain it a little better

Fan is located under your glove box. Remove it and test it with a 12 volt source. If it doesn't work it is your fan. If it works it is a fuse or your control knob.

shaking problems can be from faulty injectors, low fuel pressure , crossed ht leads, vacuum leak from vent controls or transmission actuator, weak valves ( not seating properly)

i have seen many related starting issues for this model, with few verified solutions. i would try to walk thru these 3 steps 1, is to reset/re"learn" your key, after a dead battery issue http://pcmperformance.com/programming_files/GM_VATS_RELEARN_PROCEDURE.pdf 2. verify that you are NOT using a copied key to allow the car to "warm up" unattended, and then carrying the real key indoors and out of range. the real, micro-chipped key must be detected, to prevent the anti theft lock-out. most all similar starting issues i have seen were, coincidentally, on very cold mornings. 3. IF the above 2 do not help, again disconnect the battery, locate the fuse/relay block under the hood, unbolt, and make sure that all the wires underneath that connect to the fuse/relay sockets are not loose. if so, push them all the way in/secure them, reattach the block, reconnect the battery, and, if necessary, relearn the key again do not move on to #3 unless the first 2 procedures are less than successful.

could be a loose ground wire

Unfortunately this question is part English and part Spanish aclienders? auto magic transformation? ..