20 Most Recent 1997 Buick Century Custom Questions & Answers

DTC P1441 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Flow During Non-Purge - This does not mean the purge solenoid is bad an to replace it . DTC P1655 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Control Circuit Output Driver Modules (ODMs) are used by the PCM to turn on many of the current-driven devices that are needed to control various engine and Transaxle functions. Each ODM is capable of controlling up to 7 separate outputs by applying ground to the device which the PCM is commanding on, Unlike the Quad Driver Modules (QDMs) used in prior model years, ODMs have the capability of diagnosing each output circuit individually. DTC P1655 set indicates an improper voltage level has been detected on ODM B output 5, which controls the EVAP purge solenoid. Turn off the ignition switch. Disconnect the PCM. Turn on the ignition switch. Using a J 39200 Digital Multimeter, measure voltage between the EVAP purge solenoid output driver circuit at the PCM harness connector and ground. Is the voltage near the specified value? B+ YES or NO ? Test Description The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the Diagnostic Table. Normally, ignition feed voltage should be present on the output driver circuit with the PCM disconnected and the ignition turned on. Checks for a shorted component or a short to battery positive Voltage on the output driver circuit. Either condition would result in a measured current of over 1.5 amps. Also checks for a component that is going open while being operated, resulting in a measured current of 0.0 amps. Checks for a faulty EVAP purge solenoid. This vehicle is equipped with a PCM which utilizes an Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM). When the PCM is being replaced, the new PCM must be programmed. Refer to Powertrain Control Module Replacement/Programming . DTC P1654 -- EVAP Purge Solenoid Control Circuit Step Action Value(s) Yes No 1 Was the Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check performed? -- Go to Step 2 Go to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check 2 Turn off the ignition switch. Disconnect the PCM. Turn on the ignition switch. Using a J 39200 Digital Multimeter, measure voltage between the EVAP purge solenoid output driver circuit at the PCM harness connector and ground. Is the voltage near the specified value? B+ Go to Step 3 Go to Step 6 3 Set J 39200 digital multimeter to measure 10 amp range. Measure current between the EVAP purge solenoid output driver circuit and ground. Monitor the current reading on the digital multimeter for at least 2 minutes. Does the current reading remain between the specified values? 0.05-1.5 amps Go to Step 11 Go to Step 4 4 Turn off the ignition switch. Disconnect the EVAP purge solenoid (leave the PCM disconnected). Turn on the ignition switch. Using J 39200 digital multimeter, measure voltage between the EVAP purge solenoid output driver circuit and ground. Is voltage at the specified value? 0.0 V Go to Step 10 Go to Step 5 5 Locate and repair short to voltage in the EVAP purge solenoid output driver circuit. Refer to Repair Procedures in Electrical Diagnosis. Is the action complete? -- Go to Step 16 -- 6 Check the ignition feed fuse for the EVAP purge solenoid. Is the fuse blown? -- Go to Step 7 Go to Step 8 7 Locate and repair short to ground in ignition feed circuit for the EVAP purge solenoid. Refer to Repair Procedures in Electrical Diagnosis. Replace the fuse. Is the action complete? -- Go to Step 16 -- 8 Disconnect the EVAP purge solenoid. Turn on the ignition switch. Measure voltage between the ignition feed circuit for the EVAP purge solenoid and ground. Is the voltage near the specified value? B+ Go to Step 9 Go to Step 13 9 Check the EVAP purge solenoid output driver circuit for an open or a short to ground. If a problem is found, repair the EVAP purge solenoid output driver circuit. Refer to Repair Procedures in Electrical Diagnosis. Was a problem found? -- Go to Step 16 Go to Step 10 10 Check for the following conditions: • The EVAP purge solenoid output driver circuit for a poor connection at the PCM. • The EVAP purge solenoid output driver circuit for a poor connection at EVAP purge solenoid. • The EVAP purge solenoid ignition feed circuit for a poor connection at the EVAP purge solenoid. If a problem is found, replace faulty terminal(s) as necessary. Refer to Repair Procedures in Electrical Diagnosis. Was a problem found? -- Go to Step 16 Go to Step 14 11 Turn off the ignition switch. Reconnect the PCM. Disconnect the EVAP purge solenoid. Turn on the ignition switch. Connect a test light between the EVAP purge solenoid output driver circuit and the ignition feed circuit at the EVAP purge solenoid harness connector. Using the scan tool outputs test function, cycle the EVAP purge solenoid output on and off. Does the test light flash on and off? -- Refer to DTC P1655 Diagnostic Aids Go to Step 12 12 Check the EVAP purge solenoid output driver circuit for a poor connection at the PCM. If a problem is found, replace faulty terminal. Refer to Repair Procedures in Electrical Diagnosis. Was a problem found? -- Go to Step 16 Go to Step 15 13 Locate and repair open in ignition feed circuit to the EVAP purge solenoid. Refer to Repair Procedures in Electrical Diagnosis. Is the action complete? -- Go to Step 16 -- 14 Replace the EVAP purge solenoid. Refer to Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid . Is the action complete? -- Go to Step 16 -- 15 Replace the PCM. Important: : Replacement PCM must be programmed. Go to Powertrain Control Module Replacement/Programming . Is the action complete? -- Go to Step 16 -- 16 Review and record scan tool Fail Records data. Clear the DTC(s). Operate the vehicle within Fail Records conditions as noted. Using a scan tool, monitor Specific DTC info for DTC P1655 until the DTC P1655 test runs. Does scan tool indicate DTC P1655 failed this ignition? -- Go to Step 2 System OK

Replace dimmer.

You could unplug the sensor to see it that is the problem.

Check compression. I have a feeling you have a broken cam shaft which is pretty common for these vehicles. also you never mentioned if you actually checked for spark at the spark plugs. If the plugs are wet with fuel than the Crank sensors are working since the computer needs that signal to determine injector pulse and spark. If there is no spark out of the coil pack or the wires at the plugs than there is a good chance the ignition module under the coils is bad. good luck and keep me up to date with any findings or new info and ill do my best to guide you in the right direction. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Here are some possibilities you can test yourself. But if none of them resolve your issue, you may need to consult a professional mechanic. Jeff Armer seems to have supplied even more detail. Just how comfortable you are will such procedures may determine just when you choose to go to a professional mechanic. No Crank or Start: This could be due to a weak battery, corrosion on battery terminals, poor starter electrical connection, bad ground connection, or a faulty starter motor. You might want to check the wires to the starter. If the car starts and runs when you jump the starter from underneath, it could indicate an issue with the starter circuit. Key Won't Release: First, ensure your vehicle is in Park and that the steering wheel is not locked. If the key still doesn't turn, try using a spare key, as the original might be worn-out or bent. If the problem persists, you might need to consult a mechanic or replace the ignition switch. Another method to try is to turn the key to the start position, let it fall back to the run position and leave it sit for ten minutes. Cycle the key off and wait five seconds and it should start. The battery has to be fully charged for this to work. Won't Come Out of Park or Won't Read That It's in Park: This could be related to the vehicle's security system. Running a diagnostic check for codes with a scan tool of both the Powertrain control module/ecu and the Body control module could help identify if any codes are stored. The vehicle should crank over in park or neutral.

This will help; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZnC1OakYn0

Take your Rainier out for a drive and see if the cruise control still works. If it does, the VSS is likely fine. If not, the VSS could be the culprit (Vehicle Speed Sensor). Cruise control also depends on throttle position. Ensure that the throttle body and related components are functioning properly. Examine the wiring going to and from the VSS. Look for any damaged or frayed wires. The most common reasons for cruise control malfunction are failed control modules, faulty sensors, or switch issues. While you've already replaced the brake switch module, it's essential to verify that it's functioning correctly. Additionally, check other control modules related to the cruise control system. While you've already replaced the brake switch module, there might be a separate cruise control module. Inspect this module for any signs of malfunction. Powertrain Control Module (PCM): The PCM monitors the signal circuits of the cruise control switches to determine when to capture and maintain the selected vehicle speed. It uses the throttle actuator control (TAC) module motor to control the vehicle speed. That would be something to check. Visually check cable connections and for corrosion. A multimeter can check the battery which can affect the PCM. Sometimes, disconnecting the battery to clear any fault codes can resolve cruise control issues. Possibly that might work even though you see no fault codes.

Have you checked your amplifier?

Might have a bad actuator, which open the access port for warm coolant to enter the heater core.

Question edited to add Translation. We only speak English on this North American website. https://translate.google.ca/ Page 105. Make sure they are turned on at the dimmer. https://www.dezosmanuals.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/1994-Buick-Regal.pdf ..

This seems to to be an issue with some Buicks. I don't think Buick have a specific fuse for the back up lights and the 2005 to 2007 Rendezvous models had a relay for those lights. OK. Start with the simple and silly stuff first. Check the bulbs and the sockets they fit into. It could be a blown bulb or there is dirt and corrosion on the contacts blocking the electrical current to the bulb. Using a multimeter set to DC volts test the bulb socket for power to the bulb. With the Park brake ON, the Ignition ON and the Engine OFF selecting reverse should turn the back up lights on to test for power. If no power to the light fitting next move to the switch on the Transmission the shifter operates when you select reverse. I'm not sure where it is on the Rendezvous Transmission, You might get lucky and it'll be screwed into the housing next to the actual shifter.

have a shop check it out scan it did battery (main) just fail ? and then recovered.. if yes, that is auto learn doing its job. if not , then scan it.

P1811 is for maximum shift adaptation and long shift detected. The possible causes are long - clogged transmission filter cut seal on transmission filter low or burnt fluid 1-2 accumulator faulty 2-3 accumulator faulty 3-4 accumulator faulty valve body spacer plate damaged pressure regulating solenoid damaged pressure regulating valve damaged fluid pump faulty restriction in hydraulics of transmission 1,2 or 3 clutch damaged forward band burned or broken torque converter clutch broken The first step is to check line pressures with scan tool and transmission pressure gage, then with scan tool test the pressure solenoid. If pressures are low and pressure solenoid test good, then transmission is pulled and torn down to inspect and repair as needed, which is usually a complete rebuild in this case.

The float arm inside the tank is sticking. You would need to remove it, make sure it is free and perhaps bend it left or right a bit, but not up or down as that will change the level reading. https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Buick+Regal+LS.+Gas+gauge+is+stuck ..

A 2004 Buick LeSabre uses refrigerant called R134a. The amount of refrigerant needed should be noted under the hood, but may not be. Whenever the refrigerant is recharged, a specific amount of PAG 46 oil will also need to be used, to lubricate the compressor.

Okay, for starters you're going to need a Phillips screwdriver, now you have to put each wire on the right terminal.First identify the proper orientation of the cap, it only goes one way, look for the tag on the cap that must fit into the notch in the housing align the old and the new caps remove the wires one by one from the old cap to the new cap then use the screwdriver to turn each of the four retaining lugs you must push down the screwdriver and turn them CCW about a quarter to a half turn the app should come off the rotor is there underneath remove the two screws and install the new rotor it only goes one way. Put the cap on making sure it fits into the notch. The lugs should go back in easily if the cap is on right way, if not you would have to feel for it. Good luck..... ????

Not all models are fitted with a GPS or a SAT-NAV. If there is one fitted there will a button on or next to the centre screen on your dashboard.

Stop throwing parts and money at it, take to repair shop

What are the oxygen sensors or fuel ratio sensors readiing when acting up ? The temperature sensors , coolant and intake air readings as it is acting up would be helpful information too .