20 Most Recent 2008 Toyota Camry Questions & Answers

3 way post. them , you and now you asking the forum to get involved in 3 way messI would fire himfind a real shop that can do the tests and tell you the primary cause of failure.as you can see he clearly is the wrong shop to ask on many levels.avoid them. (id even run)

Question edited for a little more clarity. Question moved to model category. This site doesn't do well on abbreviations. By 'acc' (I changed to 'ACC', do you mean the Accessory position on the ignition switch? Is the key worn out, is a recut key? Can you start the vehicle? You can try spraying Switch Cleaner into the lock. https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+Toyota+Camry.+I+cant+get+it+into+ACC+mode ..

Low transmission fluid or failed shift solenoids. https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+toyota+camry+okay+in+reverse+drive+not+working ..

The problem concerning the no air flow out the defrost duct on my mom's 94 Toyota Camry is that the rod link from the electric actuator to the vent / defrost flap became disconnected way up under the center left side under the dash. I had to remove the lower air duct from under the steering column for access to use a 1 inch hole saw to make an access hole on the upper side of the case tube opening to see where the rod came off the lever. I went to the local Toyota dealer to try to buy a retainer clip but the part guy told me that it was only sold as a complete housing piece which was very expensive and involved removing a big portion of the dash pad assembly to replace the housing.
At this point , I plan on reconnecting the rod to the lever by simply installing a special washer style retainer on to the end of the rod to keep it connected. You might find a retainer like this one in a carberator repair kit.

quite easy in fact just grab the plastic behind the control box and pull straight up the plastic will detach easily lift it up a little bit and you can now slide your fingers behind the lid cover.

Step 1 Slide the two front seats forward. This may not be necessary, but it will give you more room to work.Step 2 Pull the seatbelts out of the slits at the back of the cushion. You are not removing the seat belts, just moving them out of the way.Step 3 Remove the mounting bolt from the rear seat cushion with a socket wrench. You will have to lift up the front edge of the cushion to get at this bolt. Then, pull the cushion up and out of the Camry.Step 4 Locate the seat back locks and undo them by pulling them up.Step 5 Move the seat backs down and remove the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. These bolts will be located at the center hinges. Pull the seat back up and out of the Camry.

http://olybrake.com/pdf/fel_pro_torque_specs_guide.pdf Try this manual. It should have what you are looking for.

you need to locate the speedo wire, it can go like this. read wheel to the abs. to the sunroof motor to the auto box then ecu, and anything else before it gets to the speedo in the dash any one of these were is not connecting properly can give this code. also check the cog on the read wheel make sure its not mucked up. also if the abs is not lite up to say there is a fault its not that part that is the problem.

Check sway bar linkage.

Bad ignition switch

The charging system in your vehicle is computer controlled ,checking for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's should alway's be the first step in the diagnostic process ,testing for B+ voltage at the wiring connections at the alternator would be the next step if no DTC'S are stored . The single heavy gage wire on the back should have Battery voltage , the wire's at the connector ,three out of the four should have B+ voltage an the # 3 wire is the control circuit from the ECM - engine control module . Four fuse's supply B+ voltage to these connections . 10 amp gauge #1 , 7.5 amp gauge #2 , 7.5 amp ALT-S an 120 amp ALT fuse. If any one of these is blown the alternator won't charge . If you know nothing of automotive electrical system testing ,your best bet would be to take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop.

I would ask them and see what they say. Should not cost anything to ask.

I would loosen every engine and trans mount and slide a piece of rubber between the mount and the body and retighten,this may change the vibration to level you can live with.

If not the wrong key, maybe the locks are seized from not being used. Over time with humidity, and lubricants drying up inside of the mechanics of the locks they could seize. When inserting the key the pins are not properly moving in to place to allow the tumbler assembly to turn. Try using some silicon lubrication. Spray in to the lock. Work the key in and out of the lock a few dozen times before attempting to turn. Then spray in some graphite lock lubricant. Insert the key in and out a number of times. Then tap on the key end with something hard like a pliers or something not to heavy or forceful. Then try turning the key. Jiggle it a bit and moving it in and out. Eventually the pins should normally release and position themselves. If all of the above does not work, then you will need to get a lock smith to assist. Most likely he will be able to get in to the vehicle so he can remove the locks to service them.

valve on the throttle body

could be. what are the symptoms

check fuses most likely its the fuse