Top 20 2001 Toyota 4Runner Questions & Answers

have it reset by a scanner quicker safer and costs nothi9ng at auto parts shops

You need to know if it IS misfiring. Does it shake at idle? Typically I recommend experienced techs deal with misfires. the code should say P030x, with the X being the number of the cylinder it believes is misfiring (No, computers arent always right about which cylinder. USUALLY, but not always.) Lets assume it says CYLINDER 3. (Only your scanner will tell you for sure, 3 is an example we are using for now). You could try disconnecting cylinder 3 ignition coil plug at idle. On a good cylinder that is NOT misfiring, you will hear and feel the engine run rougher and slow down when you unplug its coil or injector. Thats because it WAS contributing until you unplugged it. Your v6 engine idles at say 600rpm warm when its running good. If you unplug any 1 cylinder, youve lost 1/6 of the engine output (actually more due to dead weight drag from that cylinder, but not important for now). SO, if you find the cylinder it says is misfiring, and it loses rpm when unplugged, its probably doing SOMETHING or trying to. If you unplug it and zero change heard or felt, that cylinder is likely dead. Heres where it gets hard. Could be literally dozens of things that take some familiarity and experience to ID. bad spark, bad fuel mix, bad spark plug, oil fouling, low compression, leaky valves, blown headgasket, leaking intake, EGR leaking at idle, wrong weight of motor oil (some cars) and the list goes on. An experienced drivability tech can usually narrow it down or find it in 1 hour or less. If you are learning as you go, you could take many hours, and still miss things that trained eyes and ears wont. Start by figuring out which cylinder. If it idles smooth (No shake at idle, and if you clear code and start it and let it idle the light never comes back till you drive over 75 as you stated), then I strongly recommend a professional check it. If it idles rough and you know which cylinder, you can try taking out that coil and spark plug if you know how, moving them to another cylinder that isnt misfiring, then clear the code and drive it and see if the same code resets or a new code for the other cylinder sets. If the code is the same, you have deeper issues not worth explaining here. If the code moves to the new cylinder, then 1 or both of the 2 parts you changed are likely at fault. You can replace them an very likely fix the issue. Again, I strongly recommend professional help. But that may get you started.

Hello, it's most likely a bad front wheel bearing or an out of balance driveshaft, worn u-joints, if the vibration shakes the whole truck have the driveshaft looked at for bad u-joints

it is a common problem across the automatic vehicle range and can be diagnosed from the fault codes take it to an accredited auto transmission specialist shop for a proper diagnosis and repair /quote it is a relatively easy fix in a specialist shop

For what?

don't stop! lol sounds like battery could be the problem or is there enough fulid in the transmission?

All except the brakes sound like fuses failing, or wires breaking. A quick check of the fuse box should remedy those. What do you mean by "the brakes"? does the pedal go to the floor without stopping the truck? do the brake lights not come on? is the brake indicator on the dash on? need a little more to go on

stock? or non stock? stock cars have like 2 to 6 radio options, all covered in the FSM "factory service manual" (helm.com) or at alldata.com, DIY for $15 access. if non stock visit your cars radio maker web site. get manual. free. same answer for all cars. or go to any car store, buy the radio harness connector kit. in kit is drawing that , bingo names each wire. and color. all cars made same answer. posted like 100 times now,... so... search.

It is the top of your motor where your throttle tube connects to the engine..it covers all six cylinders to get air to them...basicly there are three main parts of an engine..the block that holds the Pistons,the intake manifold on top and the exaust manifold on tne sides to allow Pistons to exaust..I hope this helps..if your looking to change replace gaskets..faily major job..good luck..

Turn to defrost,the bottom bottom with a funny picture.

Flashing too fast means that at least one exterior bulb isn't working. IF its an intermittent problem, once bulb could not be making connection at times. next time its flashing fast, stop the car and look to see which bulb isn't working. Replace that bulb, clean the socket at the same time

Check your brake fluid level, you might be low or out. If you're out, you're probably going to have to bleed the braking system due to air in the lines. Neither of the options are safe so I wouldn't recommend driving. If you need to take it somewhere I would tow it. Brakes aren't the only thing that helps stop cars :)

your squeel sounds like a belt or a pully. first inspect yous belts for wear and cracks if they look ok try buying a can of belt dressing at your local auto parts store and applying to one belt at a time when idleing until belt stops squeeling.. IF your squeel remains try lubercating pullys with a spray luburacant. The brake problem sounds like roters are warped or rusted badly .the solution would be to have roters turned if turnable or replaced with new pads. if this was helpful please leave good feed back

Have you checked the wiring? Everybody does this, Throw on parts and throw away good parts, I did it way back when. You can spend the money for another ECM and then spend more to have it programmed. This could fix it, not say it wouldn't. But you already dumped a lot of money in to it. Invest in a volt/ohm meter, learn to use it. You can get good wiring schematics at , alldatadiy.com. And it gives you plenty of info to use the meter and understand the schematics.

They should be on the exact same tracks. I am guessing that there is some object...small that is....that has lodged itself in your track and is preventing the driver's seat from going forward. I also would get some good lubricant in there too to lube it up. You can take the seat out. There are four bolts that hold it to the the floor. Take them out and disconnect the electric connection that connects the seat belt to the dash. Once out, you can see more clearly what the problem is.

Had same problem a couple years ago. It was my oxygen sensor. But to make sure, take your car to Autozone and ask them to diagnose the check engine light. Could be something a simple as gas cap, or Mass Air Flow Sensor which is located on air filter housing line which is located right before air filter. Buy a spray cleaner for sensor CRC Mass Air Flow Cleaner 3-4 bucks, and see if that works. Your car will pick up some horse power. If that doesn't help then get a new gas cap. (You prob need a new one anyways). If that doesn't solve problem then it prob is the oxygen sensor. That will run you like 120-150. Replace it yourself don't take it to mechanic it is a real easy fix just make sure u don't touch new sensor. Well that's about all I can think of so good luck my friend!

Your flasher may have went bad. It usualy is round and silver. Or your fuse /relay is bad.check under hood on top of fender for a black box with fuses and relays in it . Look for turn signal or flasher fuse/relay on underside of box lid. Or look in the owners manual. Should also be fuses inside on drivrrs side undrr dash or passenger side behind glove box.

Before you start messing with idle screw check for vacuum leaks and fresh air intake hoses, remember MAF sensor is close to air filter so inspect those hoses with a light to found any rips.

The question is fix what? What part of the braking system? Maybe best to stop by a repair shop, for a talk,don't have to do business there, just get the questions answered