20 Most Recent 2000 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Without knowing exactly what the air bag code is, coupled with the known fact that the horn is inoperative, my opinion for a viable solution is to replace the spiral cable or, as commonly called, the "clockspring". This device is the main wiring connection between the steering wheel and the wiring harness. If the circuit(s) open,due to a failure of the spiral cable, the air bag light will be on, the horn will not work,and , if you have a steering wheel Cruise control, it too may be inoperative. Best solution: replace the clockspring. Best advice: Get the airbag DTC's checked, and if you have an open in the driver side air bag circuit, the clockspring is def the culprit. Given that you had chassis work, your DTC just may be the front crash sensor, and the horn may just be unplugged, or bad, This is the best I can do for you, given the info that you have provided,
Hope this helps, and thanks for choosing FixYa.

assuming it is v/6 if my memory serves me correctly you have to remove the r/f wheel and remove it through the wheelwell. You will have to remove the transmission dipstick and tube held by a 12mm bolt on side of head (if A.T.M.) there are one or two bolts holding the brakeline to the frame, remove the bolts so you can move the lines out of the way, they are pretty flexible to move, just don't crush or kink. not gonna lie, the job is a bit of a pain, but is doable. good luck.

Pour a bottle of the Chevron Techron gas treatment in the tank and then fill up with a Good grade of Preimium Gasoline (I prefer BP Preimium or Chevron Preimium)..It worked for me.If you run regular try changing every other tank full, Preimium then Regular and Chevron Gas Treatment about every 3000 miles.Let me know how it came out.

If you didn't change the tires recently then it is the speedo cable. Depending on how good you are this repair is considered to be fairly easy but I recommend purchasing a Chilton repair manual. About 10 bucks. If you do the labor you'll probably save a couple hundred bucks. Good Luck
www.chilton.com

Consult you owners manual or a repair manual to be certain of which fuse. Or you can always just pull the fuses one at a time until you find the one that is blown (upon visual inpection the metal inside the fuse will no longer be intact). You can also take a test light to check for operation. I prefer one of the first two methods. Hope this helps.

I am not positive how the electronics are routed on a later model truck but I had this same problem on my 89' with a 22re. It turned out that the oil pressure sending unit was in the fuel pump circuit so as to not allow the engine to start with no oil pressure. I changed my sending unit and the truck fired right off. Hope this helps.

If memory serves there is a coil pack that runs down the center of the valve cover probably has a few small 8mm screws that secure it. undo the coils and lift. There are four plugs use a 16mm plug wrench to remove. Be mindful of dropping hardware in the plug wells.

I don't subcribe to this idea personally but disconnecting the battery on that truck (negative cable) will clear the codes. There is no method for this vehicle (like the old GM's) to get the code meanings or #'s without at least a hand scanner. You can pick one up fairly inexpensively

you need to test your coil pack for #2 cyl with a spark tester if spark is good try a different plug wire possible ohms resistant out of range melted wire insulator missing in boot

check your fuel vapor canistor for restricted vent line there could be a possible orfice valve inline towards tank wich would not let the tank breathe causing vapor lock

have the map sensor checked to see if it is within range you say you have codes maf make sure all clamped duct work is tight and not loose clamps .iac motor clean bore if the pintle gets stuck will cause rough idle hesitation even no start conditions scan tools only test the idle air control valve motor not the bore that extends to block varnish gets built up on the pintle and in the bore wich binds the in and out operation

HOW

Download Link: http://www.repair-guidebook.com/2001-2004-toyota-tacoma-factory-service-repair-manual-pdf-download2001-2002-2003-2004

Hi, if all of the bulbs are good then there might be a circuit issue within the car itself in regards to the lights. Please make sure that you're battery isn't past it's primary (ie using a 1 year battery for 2 years). If not, please take your vehicle to the nearest autozone or advanced auto parts in order to help diagnose the problem. They should provide a basic diagnosis at no charge. Thank you.

Mixture too rich. Make sure none of the injectors are leaking (any o-rings). Disconnect the battery to try and clear the ecu- sometimes it stores data on how the engine is running to adjust the fuel/air mixture. It may need to "reset" and start from scratch.

If it is available online it will be in this link. If not, you will need a subscription to AllData. https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Toyota+Tacoma+2RZ-FE,+junction+block+3+pinout ..

Good day. i have a tacoma 1996 4cil. i dont get power on the red wire of de crankshaft sensor. The motor dey after starting, and wont start.

Question translated from spoken English to written English. Question moved to Toyota Tacoma. There are some videos and various ideas in this link. https://www.google.com/search?q=96+toyota+tacoma+starts+then+dies ..

Make sure the fuel filter and line are clean and clear of obstructions. Fuel starvation can cause this.

The rear headrests are not a pull out design. They are bolted in place. You will need to remove the backrest panel to access the 4 bolts fastening each one to the rear bulkhead. I think the panels are only held in place with 'push in' clips like door card panels. *Carefully* lever the sides of the panel towards you until you feel them pop loose. there is a good chance you will break some of this clips but they are cheap to buy. The panel unclips then slides UP and off. If you are removing both headrests it might be easier to remove the entire panel to unbolt both headrests. This isn't a difficult job, it's just a pain in the tailbone to do and like most jobs on a vehicles it'll probably cost you the skin of at least one knuckle.