20 Most Recent 1995 Toyota Camry - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Bell housing is the area where your transmission bolts to the engine. There any bolts all around it. You need to count them all and give them the exact amount.

Coolant temp sensor needs to be tested as well as the fan motor itself. Requires a dvom.

Change the battry

Here's a link to your vacuum diagram. Save 20 On Online Ship To Home Orders Of 100 Or More

I have a 95 Camry, in Australia though, and it has no such button, so there is a possibility you will not find any button. But good luck.

pull the steering wheel and check the wear ring under the wheel that the brass contact plunger runs on it is possible that for the straight ahead position the ring is worn away

sounds like some one has put wrong fluid in master cylinder.replace all seals and bleed the system to get rid of wrong fluid.Also rebuild front calipers and rear wheel cylinders or calipers and replace front brake hoses and it will be good.Just done this on the same car.if you dont do all of it you will continue to have trouble.
Good luck

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What kind of vehicle? It means have your ac inspected. On Toyotas, It is a fail-safe mechanism. The compressor speed and the engine speed are not in unison. So the magnetic clutch dissengages so the compressor doesn't lock down. This can be caused by the serpentine belt slipping, or the magnetic ac clutch relay in the fuse box, or the ac revolution sensor on the side of the compressor. It could also indicate that the compressor itself is going bad. More than likely it the revolution sensor going bad or it is low on compressor oil and freon

Broken timing belt and a blown engine that what it sounds like. I believe that car has a interference engine which means if timing belt brakes everything in engine smash together

You don't say what type transmission, but the resource you need is here http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/

Make sure that the switches are closing when you activate. If they are closing check to see if power is reaching the respective motors. If not, you will have to trace the schematic for everything in the line that could be responsible for blocking the power.

the 1st thing is to see if the heater core has flow, check this by touching the in and out hose of the core at the engine firewall, if both are hot then the heater core is ok, at that point u will have to check the blend door to see if it moves, this door diverts the air over the hot heater core or the cold AC evaporator core, it is often controlled by a small special electric motor, it is called the blend door actuator motor, if it fails it will useually fail in the cold air position, to change this motor u must remove the dash.

You would probably mean the oil pressure (or 'sender') unit. On the 1MZ alloy block V6 it is located on the front of the engine under the timing belt cover at about the level of the oil filter, below the alternator mounting. See here p140 (you don't need to do the large amount of disassembly shown in the diagram). http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/eg2.pdf On the older 3VZ iron block engine it is on the outside of the block right next to the oil filter, near where the dipstick tube goes down. .

Try to disconnect the security system and reset your vehicle computer with an OBD Scanner?

Check the battery connections, especially the ground cable at both ends, and from engine to chassis. A hot engine may be developing a high resistance there. Also look to see the air filter element is clean, if this was not already covered in tune up. This can make hot fuel mix too rich to keep running. After that the fuel pressure in the injector supply rail should be measured to see if hot pressure is up to spec. The tuneup should have read out any trouble codes (don't assume the trouble light always flashes), but if not, get them to see if there is a clue. .

Check if the white smoke is steam or smokey could have blown head gasket.

It is on the distributor shaft. .