1995 Toyota Avalon - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You are going to have to take it to a mechanic... You cant know for sure what an engine check light is trying to tell you until you plug it into a diagnostic tool.

There should be a relay for one or both seats. You may need to check with the dealer on what the relay looks like and where it is located.It might be in your owners manual.

My guess would be the solenoid that locks the shifter in park.

Well, the main point is that it connects to the other two pipes without any leaks.Also, if the replacement pipe is wider, it could touch other surfaces and damage them from the high heat.

replace the old pump and if it runs the new pump is defective.Why did you change it initially?

P0135 indicates that the heated oxygen sensor 1 on bank 1 is not functioning properly.P0773This is the torque converter lockup solenoid. Is the converter locking up? The solenoid can be accessed by removing the trans oil pan. Coil resistance is 10.16.9 ohm, check to see if the solenoid operates when 12DC is applied.Can also be the wiring to the solenoid from ECU.

The only manufacturer that uses these is FORD. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

i need a color grapgh map of the wireing for a pioneer raido to a toyota avalon.

Remove the spark plug of no one cylinder (nearest to the timing belt and alternator pulleys). Use a long screwdriver that fits into the hole so it just touches the top of the cylinder. Turn the crankshaft by hand untill you can feel that the cylinder has reached the highest position. Look at the crankshaft pulley for a mark that should be very near or exactly oposite a simmilar mark on the enjine block. Line up these marks for top dead center (TDC). Should degree markings found to be stamped on the enjine block, the crank pulley mark must be alined with the 0 degree mark.

chances are it is, these bulbs tend ot be a bit stubborn when trying to remove them. i like to spray a small amount of penetrant on them so that they come of a bit easier. WD-40 is the best. spray some in the crevasses of the connector and the bulb meet and let it sit for a few min. then try wiggling* it a bit while you pull it out. just be more stubborn then the bulb it it will come loose.

* when you unscrew the bulb it works similar to a screw or bolt so remember "righty tighty, lefty loosie"

u can try mineral spirits

Bank refers to the side of the engine. Bank1 is always the same side as the number one cylinder. Bank 2 is always the other side of the motor on a v-6 or v-8

Sensor refers to before or after the catalytic converter. Sensor 1 is always before the cat. sensor 2 is always after the cat.

Bank1 sensor 1 on your vehicle - since the number one cylinder is on the backside of the motor closest to the firewall the B1S1 - O2 would be in the exhaust manifold on the back side of the engine before the catalytic converter. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

It all depends on how lucky you are today. Connecting the battery backwards can destroy some high-dollar stuff. If you are really lucky, you will only have a blown fuse (or fuses). Check both of your main fuse blocks on the left side of the engine compartment,
One of the boxes is called the "Fusible Link" box and the other is called the "Engine Compartment Junction Block" (J/B) (See picture below).
Your main circuits are protected by the 40 Amp and 80 Amp fusible links in the Fusible Link box and the 120 Amp Alternator Fuse in the Junction Block. You will most likely find one or more of these fuses/fusible links blown.

Your problem is likely a bare wire under the ash that is hitting metal when it moves. You'll have to open up the dash and trace out you wire harness, Start at the radio connection and work back looking for a bare spot in the insulation or maybe even jjust a crack in it. Tape it up and try to reposition it so it doesn't hit metal or chafe again. Hope this helps.

the electromagnetic solenoid that releases the shift lever may be faulty or electrical power suply.

i would sadly have to say that it is probably worn out but before you put a new one or a used one in i would at least put a trans gauge on it and check the fluid pressure at the trans or at least pull the pan and see how much metal is in the pan and on the magnets in the pan.........if there is a lot of metal i would replace and flush the system........i hope this was helpful and if i can help in any other way let me know.......let me and fixya know if this was helpful and a thumbs up would be appreciated.........thanks and have a blessed day........

if the low side is pulling into a vacuum it is more than likely an expansion valve. if you decide to fix the expansion valve i would go ahead and put a new receiver drier on and make sure you pull a good vacuum on the system and put the right amount of good clean freon in and i also add .5 to 1.0 ounces of a/c oil into the system.......good luck and i hope this info will help you............let me know how the repair works out and let fixya and me know how i did.............thanks........

follow the bottom radiator hose towards the engine and you will see a the t stat housing that has 3 10mm nuts on it. you will need to pull the top and lower air filter box to make the job a lot easier and it is a pain.

Hello,

To change the running light on the passenger side is quite simple and should take no more than 10 minutes.

1) Open the hood
2) There will be a Phillips head screw on top of the headlight close to the fender, its the only screw holding the marker light in.
3) After the screw is out simply pull the marker light straight forward (the clip in there is a right pain half the time but it'll come out)
4) Change the bulb
5) Reverse the steps to re-install the marker light

I'm certain the Avalon has a trunk popper on the driver's side floor, next to the seat, inside the vehicle. Just pull the trunk lever, pop the trunk, get the key and shut it off.