20 Most Recent 1994 Toyota Corolla - Page 6 Questions & Answers

check blowere motor resistor on or next to motor on passanger side

Follow the bottom hose from radiator.

It's driven by the timing belt behind plastic covers. If you replace it be sure to do the timing belt as well! If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/justin_3ae27a9d61d6acd4

No idea. Maybe it is telling you to STOP replacing the fuse. Just kidding as I would have to look into it but not working at the shop today as it is Sunday.

- Ensure that the temperature gauge stays at the middle at operating temperature. - Check the heater control valve operation, control cable and thermostat. - Check the heater pipes routing. - Check the heater radiator for clogged.

running, not reading; what engine option? Cyl count and displacement? Is the CEL glowing key on, then turns off running> (check engine lamp)? the engine RPM is too low. ok that is bad. this is caused by up to 50 reasons. (flooding and misfire huge list ) ill just post the basic physics reasons. (Classic, good compression, spark and fueling) no fuses blown?. and 12vdc reaches all EFI parts. (weak battery is no go) In generic form as there many engines used on corolla world wide. 1: low compression , less than 150psi on all 4. (if not V6) if engine has cam belt? it slipped. 2; weak spark causing misfire, tune ups never done each 60k miles. 3: bad fueling. (too much is flooding misfire, if too little it starves) 4; EGR stuck open , we clean these ever 60k mile. if it sticks open, idle will fail. (goes low) for sure.....! 5: the ISC sticks closed, same deal; so it gets cleaned. The first thing to do is a tuneup per the FSM and operators guide. the 60k it's called, do that and spark is good and fuel pressure returns. this post assumes engine has full power at all times. if not , better explain that, in details. there are simple tests for all the above, $100 max i tools.

Engine missing is a vast subject and calls for number of things to examine. What are the problem symptoms? Is it concerned with one or more of the following? - Rough idle, stalls or misses. - Engine hesitates/ poor acceleration. - Engine diesels (runs after ignition switch is turned off). - Muffler explosion (after fire) on deceleration only. - Engine backfires. - Engine rattles at idle speed only. - Engine rattles at all speeds. Please mention if there is some other symptom. Thanks.

runs hot,ok, restarts hot ok just dont start , cold, but it must because how do you get to 2hours? from hot? my guess, is it sometimes does start cold. ever tune it up at the critical 60k mile service, ever, this decade? that covers 99% bad cold starts. so , we do that first. diagnosis is like 10x a tune up, so........ $$$$$

ok , can I assume you run green, yellow, orange ,pink antifreeze in the radiator, not pure water, and check AF every fall for 50% consenstrations? yes. then that water is normal Airconditioning condensate water that all cars drop to the ground. pure water it is. THE A/C runs when you ask for COLD or Defrost.(front) and works just like a cold beer glass in a humid tavern. it drips.

The reasons for poor acceleration could be as under: 1. Fuel pump control circuit. 2. Spark plug. 3. Ignition system. 4. Fuel Injectors. 5. MAP and IATsensor. 6. Electronic throttle control system. 7. Air induction system. 8. Cylinder compression.

It might be mass air flow meter.im working for Lexus.lol.hoped help.of course if u have a scanner ,its better to be confirmed.good lucj

All Toyota vehicles with electronic fuel injection utilize the Toyota EFI or TCCS engine management system. This system incorporates many features to enhance performance, emissions, and drivability. One feature is the Self Diagnostic System. The self diagnostic system monitors engine operations and when a particular sensor or input varies out of specified operating parmeters, the "Check Engine" will be illuminated. READING THE TROUBLE CODES Reading the diagnostic trouble codes is very easy. You will need a paper clip or auto wire to short the check connectors of the diagnostic connector. The diagnostic connector comes in two types. The early system is located on the inner-left fender well and is a round, green connector, usually located near the air cleaner. Simply jump the two terminals in this connector with the ignition switch in the "ON" position and the engine off. Later models, '87 and newer use a multiple terminal "DIAGNOSTIC" connector which is a small, rectangular-shaped grey "box", usually located near the right fender in the enigne compartment. To get codes out of this type of connector, jump the "TE1" and "E1" teminals. Finding these terminals is easy as the inside cover of the diagnostic connector contains a schematic of the connector pinouts. If the underhood emission decal (VECI) is still intact on your vehicle, the proper pins for this are outlined there as well. The trouble codes will appear as flashes of the check engine lamp. Be sure the ignition key is on, the engine off, and your foot off of the accelerator when reading the codes. Two different codes may appear: One-digit and two digit. One digit codes have an approximate 4.5 second delay between flashes with the check engine light illuminating for about a half of a second. Mulitiple codes have a 2.5 second delay between them. For example a code two flashes the check engine lamp two times in a little over one second: I I. If two codes are stored, such as a code two and a code four, the lamp may flash as such: ....I I....I I I I. Crude examples but you get the idea. Two digit codes are similar but will flash the lamp with the first number first and the second number last. An example of a code twleve is I ....II and a code twenty four is I I..IIII.

To start with please do the following: - Check the spark plug cord's resistance. (8 K Ohms- 25 K Ohms). - Check spark plug gaps. (0.7 mm - 0.8 mm). - Check reluctor to pick-up air gap. (0.30 - 0.40 mm). - Check distributor cap for cracks or water accumulation inside. - Check ignition timing. (10 - 12 degrees at idle speed). - Adjust engine idle speed to 650 - 750 rpm. - Check the valve timing.

you want all the itty bitty stepswell go to Utube and search there, i bet you there are 100 of examples. im sure.its there.its 10,000 times in any google searchand in the FSMand at alldata.comwhich ever works best for you, do.