20 Most Recent 1991 Toyota Previa - Page 10 Questions & Answers

well if they say they did not do its a hard thing to fight all you have to do is bleed the brakes and that does not cost anywhere near 2000 try a small garage

Turn Signal/Marker Light REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the one retaining screw from the upper corner of the lens.
2. Tape the end of a pry tool, then carefully extract from the bottom of the lens in a rocking motion till the stud is loosened from the retainer.
3. NOTE: Do not pry from the back of the lens, this will crack the lens or damage the paint.
   
4. Pull the lens assembly straight out from the body towards the front of the vehicle.
5. Twist and remove the wiring from the back of the lens.
6. Twist the bulb and remove it from the socket.

Fig. 5: Once the bulb is removed, inspect the socket for corrosion
To install:

Before installing a light bulb into the socket, ensure that all electrical contact surfaces are free of corrosion or dirt. NOTE: Before installing the light bulb, note the positions of the two retaining pins on the bulb. They will likely be at different heights on the bulb, to ensure that the bulb is installed correctly. If, when installing the bulb, it does not turn easily, do not force it. Remove the bulb and rotate it 180 degrees from its former position, then reinsert it into the bulb socket.

Insert the light bulb into the socket and, while depressing the bulb, twist it 1/8 turn clockwise until the two pins on the light bulb are properly engaged in the socket.

To ensure that the replacement bulb functions properly, activate the applicable switch to illuminate the bulb which was just replaced. If the replacement light bulb does not illuminate, either it too is faulty or there is a problem in the bulb circuit or switch. Correct if necessary.

Install the socket and bulb assembly into the rear of the lens housing; otherwise, install the lens over the bulb.

Insert and secure the lens assembly into the body of the vehicle.

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Toyota-Wiring.pdf  Here is a link that should help you get some sound booming. Keep me posted, be glad to help.

Yeah you can remove the hood and enginge but it's much harder that way! Just kidding the dash is notthat hard to get out one speedo cable and four screws witll get the speedo head out so you can change the bulbs, they are miniture bulbs to.

Check all electrical current lines, make sure your ground is connected. Check starter fuses and I would check through all of them. If you can hear it turning over, then it could be several different things, maybe the position of it is not right, or the wrong type. If you hear grinding then STOP, there is definitely something wrong. SO if you dont hear anything when you go to start it, but your dash lights are on and ready, its very likely you have an open circuit, meaning a blown fuse or connection. hope this helps =)

Nope you have a shot head gasket or a cracked block

Fill the radiator with water and run the engine with the filler cap off

If there are lots of bubbles coming out of the radiator or the water flows right out of the top the head gasket has popped.

You can try the liquid cooling system repairs from Holts such as Radweld or there is a powder called Ce-lit

Both are stop gap repairs

The head needs to come off be skimmed and pressure tested

If it passes that then it is a new gasket and a re-build

check the wiring connections at the starter. They are near the back and rear of the engine.

on the inside of the door, directly inside where the mirrors are there should be a triangular piece of moulding (plastic). Take a straight screwdriver and gently pry this piece off. Once that is off you will see..probably 3 nuts, 7 or 8mm.... all you have to do then is just tighten them up until they are snug, and replace the piece of moulding that you took off.

THE PLUGS AND DISTRIBUTOR ARE UNDER THE HOOD. IF SOMEONE TOLD YOU THAT THEY ARE UNDER THE PASSENGER SEAT THEN THEY WERE JUST KIDDING IM SURE. ON TOP OF THE ENGINE IS THE DISTRIBUTOR AND THE SPARK PLUGS ARE AT THE ENDS OF THE WIRES THAT COME FROM THE DISTRIBUTOR. HOPE THIS HELPS, LET ME KNOW. THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR AN HONEST RATING AND FOR USING FIX-YA.

SOUNDS LIKE THE SWITCH ON THE COLUMN IS MALFUNCTIONING. BUT FIRST I WOULD CHECK THE WIPER RELAY TO MAKE SURE IT IS NOT STUCK IN THE CLOSED POSITION. SWAP THE RELAY WITH ANOTHER ONE TO SEE IF YOU GET THE SAME RESULTS. I HOPE THIS HELPS. THANK YOU FOR USING FIX-YA. BEST OF LUCK. AND THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR AN HONEST RATING.

Look the engine over and see if you can find any external leaks, change the thermostat and make sure that fan(s) are operating.
Check the oil for water...loosing that much, it has to show up somewhere. Blown headgasket usually puts oil in coolant or coolant in oil, causes an external leak from between head and block or goes out through the tailpipe as steam.
look carefully and you will find your problem!!

remove the the diff unit and refit into your casing ,,,easy job,Preload on pinion bearings and set crownwheel backlash to a very small wiggle woggle.handful of LM grease in unit before you refit cover then use ep90 gear oil .job done shouldnt take more than a morning to do.

Usually this will be a 15 amp fuse, and usually blue. This should narrow it down. Pull one out, see if its blown. If you can't tell, put a new one in, and move the old one down to the next blue one. Eventually, you will figure it out. Then I would get an owners manual in english, or buy a dash cover at junkyard, so you will have it for future information. A dealer should be able to print, and give to you a fusebox diagram, then you can glue it to the inside of the fuse box cover. There are also some master fuses under the hood, 30 amp and above.

Let the engine run, turn on heater, and get out and open and close the hood a few times, slamming it. If it starts to blow, you got a bad heater blower motor, with bad brushes. The resistor you are talking about, is about the size of a pack of cigarettes, with 2 screws, and has some white plaster looking stuff on the other side. I would replace that too if you get the blower out, because I do not think it will come out without first removing the blower. Resistor is about $20-25.00. Blowers usually go bad between 120-140k. I change the resistor every other time. The switch goes bad too, and it will only work on every other position. To change that, disconnect the battery, and take out the fuse box, and all the faceplate screws, and that will get you started. The switch from a dealer comes with the led lights and is $40. If you buy aftermarket, you may not get the lights. I have 2 1991 models, one with 360k, and one with over 500k. This has been my experience with the heating system.

this will help you through it

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?chapterTitle=Engine+Mechanical&partName=Engine+%26+Engine+Overhaul&pageId=0900c1528008a038&subChapterTitle=Water+Pump&partId=0900c1528008a01e

Brake hose..Depending what side your on it will be drivers side brake hose or passenger side brake hose..Hope this helps you and have a great day I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joe_a3369546f8067589

sounds like you poped the main fuse in the under hood fuse panel. before that the battery light on in a toyota pretty much points to an alternator problem.

Check all your fuses, and the Headlight bulbs

the oil should be black,brown or gold(new) with no other colors in it. shouldnt be milky or streaky. the trans fluid should be light red or semi light red.as for the engine being oily its hard to discern unless you rinse it off to metal and drive it. if you mean the oil pan has black oil on it then it may be ok.