1991 Toyota Camry - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

that means you have a dead short, remove dome lite asembly and disconect, then place a new fuse... did not blow, ok you need a new dome lite assembly good luck

By your description, I would guess your temperature sensor.

On a car, Remove, Disassemble, Inspect (I think)

No clicking sounds that means when your contacts touch to ignite your starter it is not working your starter is broken

It certainly could be the sensor and it is mostly cheaper and easier to replace it as a first step. Bear in mind the temperature gauge can only be reasonably accurate if it is supplied by the correct stabilised voltage and sometimes the instrument voltage stabiliser does cause problems...

Yes. It is screwed into the termination piece of the upper radiator hose. See here p44 and 169 http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/eg1.pdf

Try looking at color codes for the year before and the year after, just never know.

Check Your Ground Cable And Contacts And Connections Also Check Your positive terminal !! The Battery Corrodes Just Like All The Connections On DC Voltage!! Hope This Helps!!

hi sean. see if this link helps you out. 1991 Toyota Camry Lost Power and now won start Google Search

I think your vehicle speed sensor has become faulty. It is on the transmission casing. See here p80 http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/ax1.pdf Another possibility is the shift solenoids see p15, p86. This was a common problem in Camry autos. The car needs to go up on a hoist and the tranny pan removed for this repair, although the part is inexpensive. For that fault though the O/D light really should blink to tell you a trouble code 63,64,65.

I would check to see if the shifting rod is connected to the tranny, you shouldn't be able to shift the car unless you had your foot on the break. IF the rod is connected then there is something inside the tranny that isn't right.

Maybe you were given the wrong info. They are 2 different relays.

This can be caused by deposits on the back of the engine intake valves and dirty fuel injectors, another culprit is the throttle valve being sludged up. I suggest you try cleaning the throttle valve and idle speed control valve by following the instructions below. If this fails to help then you should get the fuel injectors professionally cleaned (not the junk you put in the fuel tank, a waste of money).

Throttle Body Cleaning on vehicles without electronic throttle control (most 2000 and down)

You can in most cases repair this slow speed stall or unstable idle by cleaning the engine throttle valve and the idle speed control valve using a product called CRC Spray Throttle valve cleaner. Spray the cleaner into the air intake of the engine with the hose removed from the throttle body, the engine will try to stall so hold up the idle speed manually. Once you have used up about 1/2 can of the cleaner stall the engine out while spraying and turn the key off, disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 minutes and then reconnect and drive the car for a about 25 miles of varied driving modes. If this doesn't cure the problem you may need the fuel injectors professionally cleaned by the dealer service dept.

Sounds like you have a wiring problem. May want to begin by determining which circuit is causing your fuse to blow. If you are not mechanically inclined, I recommend you take if to a trust worthy repair shop.

Fuel injectors may need cleaning.

The cooling fan is controlled by a temp switch in the bottom of the radiator, try6 replacing this switch.

you need to set cylinder 1 to TDC. to do that you need to align the crank pulley's grove with the "0" on the cover. then you need to check your camshaft gear. it will have a pinhole in it that will align with a mark on the bearing cap behind the camshaft gear. if they don't line up you need to rotate the crank shaft 360 degrees and recheck.I can email it to you if you wish.

change fuel filter

If it had a bolt, I'm assuming you have removed it. Some do, some don't. The only things holding it in is rust and an O ring. First lube it at where it goes into the block. Start twisting a bit and pulling it up. keep adding lube. Be patience, it will come out.

Check the transmission control module and the shift solenoids inside the transmission. They mount on the valve body.