20 Most Recent 1990 Toyota Pickup - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Change the speed sensor if you have the electronic speedometer. If you have a cable driven speedometer, buy a new cable, and replace the old cable if it has been broken.

Change the speed sensor if you have the electronic speedometer. If you have a cable driven speedometer, buy a new cable, and replace.

if rough idle goes away after releasing brakes, suspect faulty vacuum brake booster check valve or booster

Have you done a tune up recently? Maybe the vacuum lines are routed wrong. Need some more information

Make, model and year???

from autozone.com

ADJUSTMENT

22R and 22R-E
See Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6

1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Turn the engine OFF . Remove the air cleaner and housing, along with the hot air and cold air intake ducts.

CAUTION Components will be hot. The engine head, block and radiator will be very hot.

1. Remove any other hoses, cables, or wires attached to the valve cover. The valve cover (or cylinder head cover) is the domed steel item with the oil filler in it.
2. Remove the small nuts holding the valve cover, then lift the cover off. Retrieve the rubber gasket and put it aside; it can be reused if not damaged or crushed out of shape. Beware of hot oil dripping from the inside of the cover.
3. Use a large wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt to turn the engine clockwise until the timing mark on the pulley to 0 on the scale. Turning the engine will be easier if the spark plugs are removed, but this is not required.

CAUTION Do not attempt to align the engine by using the ignition switch to turn the engine. Doing will splash hot oil onto everything in the area, including you.

1. Check that the rockers on No.1 cylinder are loose and the rockers on No.4 are under tension. (No.1 is closest to the radiator; No. 4 is closest to the firewall.) If this is true, the engine is aligned with No.1 piston at top dead center. If it is not true, turn the engine one full revolution clockwise and realign the timing mark at zero; recheck the rockers.
2. Adjust the clearance 0.008 in. (0.20mm) intake and 0.012 in. (0.30mm) exhaust. Insert a feeler gauge and check for proper clearance between the top of the valve stem and the bottom of the rocker arm on the No. 1 intake valve. To adjust, loosen the locknut on the end of the rocker arm and turn the adjusting screw until the clearance is correct. Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance; there should be a slight drag felt when the feeler gauge is pulled through the gap. Repeat the procedure for No 1 exhaust, No 2 intake and No. 3 exhaust.

Fig. Fig. 3: Adjust the clearance of half the valves, do the arrowed ones first

Fig. Fig. 4: Use a gauge to measure the distance between the stem and the rocker arm

Fig. Fig. 5: Hold the adjusting screw in position, then tighten the locknut

1. Turn the crankshaft pulley one full rotation clockwise until the marks align at 0 and for the remaining valves.

Fig. Fig. 6: Adjust the second set of valves the same as the first

1. Clean the valve cover thoroughly with a lint-free rag. Wipe any oil off the cylinder head edges in the area of the valve cover gasket.
2. Fit the gasket into the valve cover, making sure it is not crimped or twisted. If the half-moon rubber plugs came out of the valve cover, clean them and apply sealant to the part of the plug contacting the valve cover; install the half-moon plug.

The use of sealants on the valve cover gasket is not recommended.

1. Install the valve cover onto the head. Make certain is squarely seated and not pinching any adjacent wires or cables.
2. Install the valve cover retaining nuts. Tighten them to 43-60 inch lbs. (5-7 Nm) This is little more than finger-tight; overtightening will deform the cover and cause leaks.
3. Connect the lines, hoses and cables which were removed for access. Make certain electrical and ignition wires are firmly held by their clips or brackets.
4. Install the air cleaner with the hoses and duct work.
5. If still in place, remove the wrench and socket from the crankshaft pulley.

Underneath the intake. If you're going to change the knock sensor, change the wire too. You will have to get new intake gaskets and replace those. Make sure your timing belt/marks are lined up before you remove the intake.

Probably forget to reattach the inside door rod to the latch. Remove the latch and make sure the rod is secure in the latch and the clip is locked on

Water pump is timing belt driven. Change your timing belt too. Drain the coolant/antifreeze and everything on the front of the motor has to come off. Make sure you have the timing marks lined up

One screw and you have to "pop" it forward. It started to slide out and find the locking climate on the top that holds the latch release rod. Its a turn clip. Turn it and pull the rod up and that should be it.

Take the dash apart like you are removing the stereo. Then the black bezel in front. 3 screws on the top recessed into the bezel in front of the instrument cluster. 2 behind the air conditioner/heater panel and it should slide out. 4 more screws holding the instrument cluster in place.

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what year is the truck?
I can get all your info and free online repair manual at www.autozone.com

check ignition module on top of steering colum

It's a hydraulic clutch, so you can only adjust the screwed on connection from the master cylinder to the clutch lever. No adjustment for slipping. You clutch is worn out if it's slipping

Could be the blower motor resistor is burned out as they do that. It's located after the blower motor on the side of the ventilation tube with a connector on the end.