2004 Toyota Avalon - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

could cause problems later on down the road with your bearings and syncros in your tranny,

lower the glove box and its forward of that, should be a plastic panel to remove.

Any certified can replace it, it does not have to be changed by the dealer. In fact any ASE certified mechanic can do this without losing your warranty if it has one, they an also do other work as well. Normally the independent shops charge slightly less than the dealer. If it's under warrenty yo could take it in but they will charge you for it and they are not cheep.

They usually take a watch battery, You should be able to get one at "Batteries Plus" or some place like that.

replace the room fuse.

You could check if current runs to the horn wires when the horn switch is pressed. If ok, then the horn itself may be old. Next thing is the fuse, the grounding source, the horn-wire plugs.

scan tool

I would suggest to you to have the spiral cable (or 'clockspring') replaced. This is the electrical unit that transfers power to the air bag, the horn and the cruise control.

It is located right under the seering wheel.

Your description of the issue indicates to me that your spiral cable is loose, and making intermittant contact. If the vehicle had an air-bag deployment, this cable-device should have been changed.

broken switches or switch,remove globe covers and remove the globes probably need to replace the assembly which should clip out

Big job to do......You begin by draining the coolant into a container, removing right-front tire, crank-pulley straight up, taking-out the belt-cover...etc....why not get the popular Hanyes repair manual sold for under $20/copy? Timing-belt, alternator, a/c it explains it all. Or better still, avoid possible engine damage, take to shop.

If the fuel gauge is lowering as you drive,and the fuel is still in the tank,then I would gather that,the fuel gauge sending unit in the fuel tank is not working correctly,and needs to be replaced.Brake repair comes in replacing ,both front,and then both rear.The brake pads are purchased in sets,front set,and rear set.These sets service one axle.To inspect the brake pads,the brake pads will have a sensor,made of steel,that will move closer to the brake rotor as the brake pad has worn down.If the sensor(made of steel)touches the rotor,it will squeal.If it does this,it is time to change the brake pads.The sensor does not always work correctly,and will not squeal,or can not be heard.To look at the brake pads,to see if they are ready to be changed,there will be about a 1/8 inch of pad left,and it is time to do a brake job on that axle.Check both sides,left,and right wheels,if one side is worn more than the other,do the brake job.Removal of the brake pads is a good idea.This way,you can see if there is any cracking in the brake pad itself.This is to be done for the front,and the rear.The front brake pads will where out two,to three times compared to the rear.This would be normal.As respect to the horn sounding upon remote unlock,well,it should be operational,make sure the horn works,I hardly ever use mine,so I would think you would not either,but depending on where you live,right? So if it is not sounding upon key less remote,then The control box may have a bad circuit for that out put.Replacement of the control box might be the thing to do.To install the hardware to do this,would only take wire.Come off the actuator controlling the door lock on the drivers door,and go directly to the horn,you will get a short burst from the horn.The actuator in the door only requires one wire to unlock,and lock the door,this is all you need to sound the horn one time.The short beep beep,would require a delay relay to be installed. I hope this is what you needed as far as information,and if it was at all helpful,please let us know,thank you.

if it only does this when its cold its normal, the car is just setting a higher idle to warm up the engine

Is Google broken in your country? It's 18.5 gallons

this is a problem i have had in my shop and there has been a few different issue's but none the consumer can do. first ting is that is has to be put on the computer to see if there is communication and if there is the trouble code will be in there if not the nav computer will need to be replaced. the nav computer and the backlight for the screen are the two most common issue's they have. thats about it other than the fuses but you said you check them but if you want to double check them let me know and i can help. good luck and please let me know if you have any more question i will be glad to help.

The float on your fuel pump is not working right the only cure is to replace the float not pump just the float and you will need to drop the fuel tank to do so.

It can only be replaced. The charcoal canister is just like a filter. Usually, emission parts have a warranty and that it's suppose last a certain amount of years. I would check with the dealer with this issue.

The first thing to do is try another key. Perhaps your transponder key has failed.
You can identify a 'transponder key'; it has a wide part wher you turn it.

Cant tell without having a scanner hooked up to read out what the computer found as an error, but...their is speed sensors on each wheel, and if one has failed, or reads a different speed than the others, this will turn on you "lights"

First of all,did you replace any tire in your car? if so,make sure they all are the same,otherwise those lights will light up,make sure all the abs,sensors are clean,some times they pick up dirt,and that's enough to turn those lights it may be also a wiring problem did they check that? let me know...good luck

you probly do not have one . un less you bought life time warranty struts