20 Most Recent 1998 Toyota Celica - Page 3 Questions & Answers

simplest test to do next is to locate another relay ans swap it for this one

if the fan starts working then you need a new one
if not, update this post with more information like engine size and type of trans PLUS weather the fan will run when you turn the a/c on

If you check the fuses, I suggest check the Brake Switch, in the back of the brake peddal, its possible that you need any adjust.

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first thing i would do is to check for a feed to the motor ?? then if need be run a power feed to it to close the roof .then work backwards to locate the lack of feed .could be an earth issue as well but you will need to check it out with a meter to see if earth is ok or just run another earth as a good measure then when you know earth is ok put a power cable from the battery to the motor to make sure its working ,then as stated work backwards looking for the feed so the next thing is to check for a feed from the switch which should run to a relay then on the relay you will have a permanant 12v feed to the relay and the 12v feed from the switch if you have this and the relay isnt clicking check the earth on the opposite side to the switchable feed ,the other side of the permanant 12v feed will run to the motor ,simple but be carefull because the relay will reverse the current flow to lower the hood so you will have one feed but the relay will throw another contact to reverse the feed but if you play with this with the test light you should be able to work out the wiring ,then when you have worked out the wiring you should be able to locate the fault .Now some types i have worked on use a sort of circuit on the motor to reverse it like a wiper motor self pàrk mechanism ,wher eit will go one way then when it reaches the end it will lift the contact and go the other way ,with two set of contacts one the feed and another for the earth .if you disconnet the wiring plug to the motor and use a twin flex cable from the battery + and - to the motor then if it will not close just reverse the cables and it will go the other way and close

there are ussually rubber plugs in the bottom,if not use shop vac to remove water and fix leak check antenna if its metal and at the rear panel,other areas to check are the rear tail light gaskets.also look at tail mounting holes.

check the marks at the camshaft pullies.

Yes, the brake shoe clearance has to be set at the minimum and the brake edges should be chamfered (angled) where it contacts metal in either direction, the shoes get hung in reverse if they are loose because of the movement of the entire brake assy, and they kind of get cocked & locked until you apply the brake. Once the brakes are adjusted correctly, there is no room for them to lock.

Try & pull up a hair on the handbrake lightly when this happens & it should remove the bind by centering the shoes within the drum.

Minimum brake clearance is the cure. Sometiimes if parts aren't replaced, the fit isn't perfect due to the lip remaining which prevents intalling the part at minimum clearance.

good luck

The latches are adjustable.
The top will not come all of the way forward because you may below on fluid.
Behind the rear seat is your motor/pump/reservoir combination.
With the top down, fill the reservoir to overflowing with ATF.
Cycle the system a few times and repeat.
Do this till the reservoir will take no more fluid.
Check the lines and cylinders for leaks. The fluid must be going somewhere.
If you replace any lines or cylinders, always do them in pairs.
Karl at Topgunwon.com

the fuse boxes should be labled on the under side there should be one under the hood and/or on the left side of the dashboard if not it could just be the pump

YOU COULD HAVE BLOWN A FUSE CHECK FUSE BOARD .

ask auto zone for the diagram in which the belt goes back in it should also be under the hood by the radiator

If you have power or heated or lumbar supported seats then you will have extra plugs to disconnect. If not any of these then the only plug you need to worry about is the seatbelt plug. This is what makes the light come on the dash.

look bottom of rad.

Remove the plastic covers around the ignition switch, insert the key in the ignition and turn the key to ignition on position (just before start position) now locate the pin on the side of the ignition switch which is flush with the aluminium housing holding the barrel,the pin is about 3 mm in diameter.Gently press the pin inwards (which is spring loaded) with a sharp pointed object e.g small screwdriver and at the same time while holding the pin, pull on the ignition key as if you want to remove the key, and the barrel will slide out completely.

Regards
Phillip

Try this link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-Toyota-Celica-Owners-Manual_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem29fd81f4beQQitemZ180346811582QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature

Are you saying you only had front brakes with the back brakes removed? The hand brakes would have been null. How could it pass inspections ?
A quick trip to the library will help. Ask for the auto service manual.
You can also check eBay for a Service Manual.

sounds like you are on the right track, the battery you have in it has done well to last that long but it sounds like a fell cells have decided to call it quits

The turbo never "engages". The turbo spins all the time, but the amount of exhaust gas driving it is adjusted by the wastegate.

The problem you are experiencing could be due to the wastegate's vacuum tube being disconnected. The wastegate is meant to open as the inlet manifold pressure increases, so that the turbo spins less and doesn't compress the air too much. It could also be the result of a faulty sensor, but check the vacuum tubes first. Your wastegate actuator is fitted just behind the turbo. If the pipe has come off recently, you should be able to see a clean section where it's meant to be joined to the actuator. The disconnected pipe should be fairly close by. Again, the pipe should be connected to the inlet manifold though from memory I think this is one of the difficult to reach pipes on the back of the engine.

As a side note, the turbo guage on the dashboard is very poor. Even if only for the sake of diagnostics, you should get a cheap direct vacuum driven guage.

You must have not plugged a wiring harness back in some where. Go back over the area you worked on and see if there is any wires lose or hanging or not plugged in all the way.