20 Most Recent 1997 Toyota Camry - Page 9 Questions & Answers


battery neg lug pulled or if you short it , you get a nice acid bath.
or worse, (eyeprotection)
alldata.com its all there
so true too for a real FSM.

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Apr 03, 2014


An easy waty to find out if your exhaust is blocked is to remove the front oxygen sensor. Once you start the car you will notice an immediate improvement. I do not recommend driving the car as more internal damages may occur.

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 31, 2014


if your going to replace the rack and pinion make sure you pull the screw completely out of the rack. there actually is a place on the round splines made to receive the screw. you should see a place rounded out for the screw to go through. if you still have problems with getting it out you can try to use two flat screw drivers to pry up on the rack where it goes down on the splines. make sure that you have your wheels straight when you put the new rack back in so that the rack will turn the wheels properly to the right and to the left the same amount of turns each way. keep your steering wheel straight so that it is in the right way that your able to see your speedometer and dash lights or gauges. make sure that your steering wheel is straight across horizontal. let me know if this helps you. god bless

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 31, 2014


on the rod in question hooks to a plastic holder that pops into a round hole on the latch. you should be able to look at the latch and see a round hole where the plastic keeper for the rod has fallen out look for this plastic holder in the bottom of the door usually that's where this plastic keeper falls. if you cant find it go to Toyota service desk and let them know that the rod has fallen out of the latch and you don't know what you call it. I believe if you ask the service person will come out to look at the latch and they will actually show you where the rod hooks up. and if your missing the plastic keeper they can write what you need and then while your there go to the parts dept and see if they have that part you need to put back into the latch should be a round hole in the latch where the plastic keeper will go. if you still cant figure it out go back in to Topeka Toyota and ask if they would come out to show you where it goes. if they don't want to help you then see if they can print out a picture for you that shows the latch and where the rod goes. all else fails go to the library and find a automotive manual for your car on door latch and handle. I also bet that you can go onto u tube and search for what you need to show you where that plastic keeper goes and where the rod hooks up we as mechanics can tell you how to do this and that but if you don't have a mechanical understanding of what we are telling what to do step by step to fix your problem it may be hard for you to understand. and that's understandable so I hope this will give you some more options for you. let me know if I can help in any way. god bless you steve

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 31, 2014


You're looking for a loose wire or a break in one of the tracks on the circuit board of the instrument cluster. Good luck mate. It's a horrible thing to find. All the best. Adam

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 28, 2014


that is an emmisions code and toyota did fix for free before but i doubt it will still be covered. could be purge valve or canister or gas cap etc

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 28, 2014


check for hoses off center

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 27, 2014


speed sensor could be going bad

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 24, 2014


I think you are talking about the sun visor for the windsheild, most cars of this erra the visor is held in place by 3 screws. after you take them out if there is some kind of light there will be a plug to unplug.

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 21, 2014


Get in car with right hand put key in ignition and keep slight pressure turning ignition switch toward on position. At same time turn or shake steering wheel from left to right to get the pressure off lock assembley. Once the pressure is off lock assembley you should be good to go.

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 19, 2014


Check brake booster (the big round drum on the firewall where the brake master cylinder attached to) for any vacuum leak.

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 13, 2014


is it turning over at all ?? or just not firing ,if not turning over it could be immobilisor so try spare key first

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 12, 2014


check all fuses first !
1st fire your tech. he/she is a failure.
the cars failure is catastophic and constant.
they should hang up their compression gauge.

CAN I assume you reset all codes and they come back.
(pulling sensors ,etc. running will cause many errors)
so reset it and see real DTCs , not false.
(on scan tool press reset, then drive ...errr attempt to drive)

141 is a dead o2 heater, probably been like that for a year ignored.
p0325 means noise. excessive, or is knock.
a lean hot engine advanced too far can knock. (ping/detonation)
my guess its from misfiring cause by below. 340.

340s are catastopic, and is a bad cam sensor.
500 means the car was moving but the speed (MPH) was not showing speed. (another sensor bad, but not near as important like 340.)

P07xx is tranmission errors. A/T only.

the one thing you forgot is this, it takes 3 things to move (beside bracks not locked up (ice frozen)
1: the engine must start and run, does it?
2:the engine must make full power, (tranny stall test proves that) ask
3: the transmission must not slip. (fails stall test above)
if the engine rpm will not rise in drive or 1st gear, that means,
the engine power is lacking, (340s fill do that)
if the RPM in gear, rises real fast (&high) and you dont move that means
the transmission is bad and is SLIPPING ((a system, not a part)

it's that simple. the key is RPM.
if your mech, can't notice that the engine is dead, (or totally weak)
he needs to get a new job. sorry,
if even hand pushed a car to make sure it can move
or spin all tires, off the ground, if #2 fails above.
eg hand brake stuck on or???? can must be free to move. so......

id work 340s, like bird dog, my guess.
is if real, (did you reset the ECU with a scan tool and 340s come back?
Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit

A: on this engine , i'd do a full compression test WOT, to make sure
the cam /chain, (no engine stated) has not slipped.
wot = wide open throttle.
if i get 150 psi or more, on all cylinders. that is good.
I do that so the i know the cam i spinning right, and that it is still timed RIGHT, then if you get 340s the cam sensor is bad.
i think that is it. replace cam sensor
and the bad 02,

then move on to the transmission issues.
on the trans, key off unplug the main side connector , electrical
clean it with electrical spray and put it back.

fix 340s first, for full engine power
then fix transmission to get power to wheels.
there are 50 reason so lose engine power.
and the transmission is more.

to fix 773,
read the fsm on that topic, it shows all test to be done.
or at all data.com./
fsm quotes
Engine started, engine running during normal driving conditions, and the PCM detected the Shift Lockup (SL) control circuit voltage was "high" with the solenoid "on", or the SL control circuit voltage was "low" with the SL commanded "off" during the CCM Rationality test.
Possible Causes:
  • * SL control circuit is open or shorted to ground
  • * SL control circuit is shorted to system power (B+)
  • * SL is damaged or has failed (an electrical fault)
  • * PCM has failed (very very rare)

in geek this means, the PCM cant see the solenoid action or is shorted.
my guess is bad connections to this solenoid or the solenoid is bad.

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Mar 06, 2014


Here ya go. Good video using ammeter to find a short. Starts at 10:58 (Also check for a bad ground) sometimes that creates problems you described.
Finding active short

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Feb 28, 2014


2 fans behind RAD
is 1MZ engine, the 5s is different. 1fan

1mz engine has 2 switches.
the twin fan engine is 1MZ (bingo)
the 1mz has 2 switches. a real pain when know one posts engine.
FSM data: ECT switches.
sw1--opens >208f closes < 190f
sw2.-opens >199f closes < 181f

i see the PCM has CF cooling fan control too.
my online source has 30+ pages of schematics
and covers it all but skips the fan wiring.
on the right fender fues box is the 4 or more fan /AC relays.
if you unplug the ECT sw1 or 2, or the relays im sure
you will find how is missing up and work from there.

it looks to me , (A/C drawings) that the PCM and A/C amp can both
control all fans but has 2 ways to do that.
PCM can see engine heat (ECT EFI) and activate fans when engine overheats, (normal at long idle times as stop sigs)
and the 2 , SW 1,'2 temperature switches are a backup i think too
all this and is staged, first 1 fan then next,
too bad the fan relay schematic is missing..

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Feb 21, 2014


P1133 refers to the air/fuel ratio sensor bank 1 sensor1 (This is the first O2 sensor in the exhaust). the code indicates that the circuit is either open, shorted, or has a poor connection. Most of the time this can be fixed simply by removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the sensor (checking the connections in the process). if after reinstalling (and having the code cleared from memory) the light comes back on you should replace the sensor.

1997 Toyota... | Answered on Feb 08, 2014

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