1993 Toyota Land Cruiser - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Try cleaning your ground cables from battery to engine and from battery to frame.

hello, there is another speed sensor in the speedometer, replace the speedometer to resolve this.

possible faulty flasher or relay, check all signal light bulbs and wires for damaged or burnt sockets, do you have trailer hitch wiring, if you do look for damaged wires etc., It sounds like a grounding issue.

Before you get involved with the starter ... look at the earthing lead from the battery to to the engine/bodywork. A poor earthing strap is a classic symptom of the problem you derscribe

Just two possibilities. First would be the air wasn't purged completely out of the system. Second is a blown head gasket. And yes, I have seen a good pressure test on the coolant side (15 to 18 PSI). But the pistons throw out 100+ PSI. Check or have checked, the coolant system for exhaust gas. There is a test for it.

Hi Jessica: If this is the straight 6 cylinder motor, they were basically very similar to the chevy. The firing order was 1 5 3 6 2 4 If you look at the distributor, find the number 1 plug wire, and then check from there it should confirm it for you. Gotta love old chevys!

Inspect the plugs and see if any of them might have a hair line crack on the porcelain and make sure you have your wire routing correct and inspect compression on each cylinder

The lights need to be grounded as well and there could be a bad ground in the harness but you could always put a ground from the lights to a good clean spot on the chassis.

if the hose is about 1/2 inch and about afoot long and has oil inside of it probably is an oil return line back to the sump. If it is clean inside it will go to a item requiring vacuum like a governor or a brake booster.

run fault codes and check for TCM problem. Have the fluid changed and the filter cleaned out and while the pan is off have the bands and clutch pack adjustments checked.

this will be the de-dent spring and ball that holds the ignition in the correct position for off-accessories-run . For them to fall out there must be a bit broken off the back of the switch or the switch is loose.

ya mum

Water is essential to the to the life of an engine and running it without water will cause internal damage. the length of time is of no importance as you have hot moving parts with no cooling . How long was it running with the front end damage as the damage could have been done then. Have a compression test done

Check Idle Air Control Valve. Similar problem on my '94 LC. Part is expensive @ $660 but solved my problem as it was getting stuck.

crankshaft sensor

The only way pressure can build up in the radiator is for combustion gasses to leak into the cooling system. This is usualy from a blown head gasket, a cracked cylinder head or a porous block. These things should have been checked for when the engine was rebuilt. Assuming it was done by an engine reconditioning service.

sounds like main 50 amp fuse has blown

It sounds as if the clearance that the bearings normally run in have been surpassed and need to be replaced. Higher engine revs will supply extra oil which will overcome any small discrepencies but constant running at this stage will result in faster degradation of all engine components concerned resulting in a more expensive repair. Shes basically worn out.

I don't mean to sound sceptical, but how have you concluded there is not any head gasket problem? Do you mean a compression test is good? Because that will not show up any leak between the water jacket and the oil passages, via the head gasket joint. Only a pinhole leak is needed because water is, well, watery. Has a radiator leak down test been done? This will show up water jacket leaks (there may be more than one), and give you some idea of the size.http://www.benplace.com/pressure_test.htmI don't know your engine well, but I cannot think of another ready way for water to get in the oil or v-v, except a cracked block, which is rare. I have read of a leaky intake manifold gasket causing it, but I can't picture that one myself.

• Changing the fluid on this is fairly easy.

1. Pull the fill plug.
2. Use a manual pump to evacuate the old fluid.
3. Fill the rear pumpkin until the 75W - 90 synthetic gear lube just barely seeps out the fill hole.
4. Wipe any metal shavings off the fill plug.
5. Insert the fill plug in the hole and snug it up, not to tight, just nice and snug.

• Hope this helps.