20 Most Recent 1993 Toyota Celica - Page 8 Questions & Answers

You have to make sure that the coolant fan is operating. If it does not come on at idle or in traffic then you will have an overheat problem. There are a few things that control the fan. Temperature sensor, cooling fan relay, and computer.It could also be the fan itself. Get 2-3 estimates for fixing the problem.

If the check engen light is on, it's probly the idle air controll valve. The only way to know is to find a shop with an old scan tool (almost impossible). The controll valve is not servicable.

there is no safety on these cars. some cars have an interia switch these do not. look for blown fuses

you lost all your freon or they didnt plug the ac pressure switch back in!

if you get a quote through e-bay's system that tells you the factory spec alarm and imobilizers specs.

check the efi fuse in the engine compartment fuse box if its ok check the the efi relay in thesame box. give update after this so i can help

call around to your local junk/recycling/wrecking yard... some specialize in imports

That particular light indicates that you have a burned out taillamp or brake lamp.

Hi. Here are the Steps you requested.

Step1 Park the vehicle on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Place the vehicle in gear or park and apply the parking brake. Step2 Place a wheel chock behind a rear tire (or front if you're doing a rear hub bearing assembly). Break the lug nuts loose of wheel of the hub bearing you're replacing with the breaking bar and a socket; just loosen-- do not remove them until the wheel is lifted off of the ground. Lift the wheel with the floor jack in a safe and secure manner. Support the vehicle on a jack stand, preferably on the frame rail if present. Remove the lug nuts and wheel. Step3 Locate the caliper bolts and remove them with the ratchet and a socket. Pry the caliper off gently using a large straight edged screwdriver and support the caliper on the coil spring with a bungy cord. Do not allow the caliper to dangle on the rubber brake hose. Step4 Locate the caliper bridge bolts (if applicable) and remove them with the ratchet and a socket. You may want to break them loose with the breaking bar first if they're really tight. On some vehicles, the brake pads will remain in the bridge and can be removed by prying out with the screwdriver. Other models, the pads may stay intact and clipped to the caliper. If you have to remove the pads, do so by taking note how they were placed in the bridge and be sure when it comes time to put them back in, that you do so in the same manner they were extracted. Step5 Remove the rotor. If it is stuck to the hub, you may have to hit it with a large rubber mallet. Only use a rubber mallet if you're not intending on replacing the rotor so you do not damage the surface of it. It may require a degree of determination to break it free. Step6 Remove any ABS wires attached to the hub bearing assembly (if applicable) or unclip the wire and trace it to the plug. In many applications, if the ABS wire is integrated with the wheel bearing hub assembly, a new one is going to come with it. If you're not sure, check the box of the new bearing and if there's an ABS wire, follow the wire until you locate the plug, unplug it and simply unclip it from it's mounts. If ABS is present but not integrated with the bearing assembly, remove the sensor from the bearing with a ratchet and socket. If you do not have ABS wires, you can skip this step. Step7 Remove the spindle nut with the breaking bar and a spindle nut socket. Remove the washer behind the spindle nut. Step8 Locate the wheel bearing assembly bolts behind the knuckle. Loosen them with the breaking bar and socket. The location of these can sometimes create a tight area to place a socket and tool on to remove them with. You may have to apply some ingenuity. Once they're loose, replace the socket on the ratchet to extract the bolts more quickly and much easier. Most hubs have three or four bolts. Step9 Install the slide hammer onto the lug studs and secure with tightened lug nuts. This may take several attempts and a couple of breaks in between to remove the hub bearing from the knuckle. Pay close attention to your progress and try to determine when the bearing will separate so you do not hurt yourself while slide hammering. Take note how the backing plate is installed between the knuckle and the bearing to replace it in the same manner. Step10 Using a fine to medium grade sand paper, sand off the rust and corrosion around the knuckle. You'll have to strategically move the drive shaft spindle around to get it out of your way. Take your time when doing this because you want that as clean as you can get it before installing the new bearing. Step11 Place the backing plate back in it's original place and place the new bearing onto the knuckle. You'll have to manipulate the drive shaft spindle splines correctly into the center of the hub bearing. Push the bearing on as far as you can but be sure to line it up correctly if ABS lines or plugs are present. Once it is on far enough, replace the wheel bearing assembly bolts. They're pretty long, so as soon as you can thread them into the new bearing, then start to tighten them. Pull the bearing in by tightening the bolts a little bit at a time and then switching to the next bolt. This will make sure the bearing assembly does not shift in the knuckle and cause damage. Once the bearing is drawn in flush, tighten the bolts one last time with the breaking bar as tight as you can get them. Step12 Replace washer and spindle nut and tighten to proper torque specifications with the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and spindle socket. Step13 Replace the brakes in the same manner you extracted them. You may need to push the caliper piston in a little bit with a C-clamp to get it over the rotor. Plug in the ABS lines or reattach them to the bearing if applicable. Step14 Replace the tire and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can get them, then lower the vehicle and tighten them in an alternate fashion with the torque wrench and socket at the correct wheel nut specifications torque setting. Step15 Pump the brake pedal if you had to push the caliper piston in with a C-clamp to restore hydraulic pressure to that caliper piston. Remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake, and test drive.

Yes, those are the hoses that go to the heater core. Just wondering, you didn't say that air is blowing, is it? You also have other components that "decide" your heat into the cabin of the car. What were the symptoms leading up to you deciding to change the thermostat.

hey rebecca, 1st thing to check is the battery cable connections to make sure they are clean, and tight. If the battery is fully charged, and the connections are good, you should probably take out the starter and bring it to a parts store to have them check it out. Most stores will do this for free. So, check those connections, and then see if the starter is shot. Your distributor shouldn't have anything to do w/ what u describe. Let me know how u make out. Curt

No it's not the starter, how about a broken timing belt?

THE LENS ON THE MR2 HAS TO BE PULLED OFF TO GET TO THE BULB, MAY BE THE SAME ON YOUR CAR , USED A PLASTIC ROD AND CARE TO LIFT FROM THE OUTSIDE, CHECK INSIDE THE BOOT BEHIND THE MAT FOR RECESSED HOLES AND YOU MIGHT FIND 8mm NUT'S HOLDING IT ON

you didnt do anything wrong it was the companys mistakke so you should return the thermostat and get your money back

Theres gotta be a sorting wire somewhere in the car. Since it stopped for a while after the alarm was disconnected, I would think its under the dash somewhere

The low port is in front of the passenger side strut tower. The high side is on the receiver/dryer.

1. Set timing belt tensioner.

(a) Using a press, slowly press in the push rod using 100 - 1000 kg (220 - 2,205 lb, 981 - 9,807 N) of pressure. (b) Align the holes of the push rod and housing, pass a 1.27 mm hexagon wrench through the holes to keep the setting position of the push rod. (c) Release the press.

1. Install timing belt tensioner.

(a) Turn the No.1 idler pulley bolt counterclockwise to obtain the specified torque toward the left as far as the No.1 idler pulley will go, and temporarily install the tensioner with the two bolts Torque: 18 N.m (180 kgf.cm, 13 ft.lbf)


NOTICE: To apply the correct torque, apply the torque wrench along the axis through the bolts of the No.1 idler pulley and exhaust camshaft timing pulley.


(b) Slowly turn the crankshaft pulley 5/6 revolution, and align its groove with the ATDC 60° mark of the No.1 timing belt cover.
NOTICE: Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.





(c) Insert a 1.90 mm (0.075 in.) feeler gauge between the tensioner body and No.1 idler pulley stopper.
(d) Turn the No.1 idler pulley bolt counterclockwise to obtain the specified torque.
Torque: 18 N.m (180 kgf.cm, 13 ft.lbf)
NOTICE: To apply the correct torque, apply the torque wrench along the axis through the bolts of the No.1 idler pulley and exhaust camshaft timing pulley.

(e) While pushing the tensioner, alternately tighten the two bolts. Torque: 21 N.m (210 kgf.cm, 15 ft.lbf)



(f) Remove the 1.90 mm (0.075 in.) feeler gauge. (g) Remove the 1.27 mm hexagon wrench from the tensioner.


(h) Slowly turn the crankshaft pulley one revolution, and align its groove with theATDC 60° mark of the No.1 timing belt cover.
NOTICE: Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.




(i) Using a feeler gauge, check the specified clearance between the tensioner body and No.1 idler pulley stopper. If the clearance is not as specified, remove the tensioner and reinstall it.
Clearance: 1.80-2.20 mm (0.071 - 0.087 in.)

1. Check valve timing.

(a) Slowly turn the crankshaft pulley two revolutions from TDC to TDC. NOTICE: Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.




(b) Check that each pulley aligns with the timing marks as shown in the illustration. If the marks do not align, remove the timing belt and reinstall it.

location

did they change the fuel filter??? if so then i would check to see if you have a miss in one of your cylinders this can be chacked as easy as turning your car on and going around the the muffler and listening to see if it makes a funny noise something like a low cough nothing loud just a little cough. if you cant hear anything like that take it in to a mechanic and have then check the pressure in each one of your cylinders
if it is not either one of those that i am not sure either hope it helps

A 50/50 mix will get you enough protection for all but probably the most extreme climates. You can go into just about any place that sells anti-freeze and get it already pre-mixed 50/50. Its actually better to do it that way because its precisely mixed and used pure water for the mix rather than tap water.