20 Most Recent 1993 Toyota Celica - Page 5 Questions & Answers

There is a bushing in the transaxle. If the bushing has worn through you may need to replace the transmission housing.

Poor accelleration, stalling, running rough at idle, low power are symptoms of poor spark. With engine running, remove and replace spark plug wires one by one. when you do this you may note that the engine becomes rougher or quits on certain plugs, and does not seem to change at all on one of them. the long plastic boot has a rubber insulator at the end of it. Spark has been known to jump from this seam over to the metal tube, effectively killing that cylinder, making it seem as though you have a fuel problem. If it is really a fuel delivery issue, the pump is accessed by removing the rear seat. under that is an panel that gives acess to the pump/level indicator assembly. The fuel filter is typically on the firewall, left side (follow the tubing going to your fuel rail , you'll find it.)

There are usually 2 leads going to the battery clamp on the positive terminal. check both for tightness and corrosion. Check post clamps on battery also.

Water pumps on front wheel drive toyotas are typically driven with the timing belt. You will have to support the engine weight from below and remove the upper right engine mount. The external belt driven alternator and A/C pump belts are in the way and they must be loosened and belts removed to pull off the plastic timing belt access covers. Once you pull the top cover off, you will see the water pump. Be sure to set your timing right after your pump replacement. The idler pulley tensioner often does not provide enough force to maintain tension on the timing belt, so you will have to pry on it before you tighten it's bolt. If you don't, then the belt may slip and your car will not run.

With the wheel removed, look behind the caliper there are 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place. Completely remove the lower bolt and loosen the top. The caliper will then swing upwards exposing the old pads. Remove cover off master cylider reservior. Leave both old pads in place for now. slide the far side pad over to the near side pad and using a channel-lock wrench, squeeze slowly and steadily. this will cause your brake cylider to retract, pushing the fluid backwards through the line and into the reservior. Once the cylinder is retracted, remove old pads and place new pads on either side. Align caliper and swing it down. Replace lower bolt and tighten upper.

Pull back trunk interior trim material. You should be looking at the rear of the taillight assembly. The lights are attached to plugs that twist about 90 degrees CCW to remove. All lightbulb access is from the inside of the trunk. If you need to replace all lights please do so one by one so you don't lose track of which one came out of it's place.

If it is getting hot when you stop - it could be a bad fan motor..
If it gets hot while moving - it could be a bad thermostat or a sensor..
Dont allow it to get to hot or it will cause costly damage to the motor..

Good luck

There a number of reasons an engine could experiance a rough idle. The first are that will need to be inspected are the spark plugs and all secondary ignition components as well.
Engine size and mileage? Recent service intervals?
Is there is a DTC (trouble code) or Check engine light that is lit?

your description sounds like master cylinder failure. But, get under the car and see if any action is happening at the slave cylinder, if not replace master and slave.

make sure there is no battery fluid around were the battery sits check the ground cable that is on the battery houseing clean it

On a '93 I would say that you could get the entire steering rack from a salvage yard with any parts that you would require for a few hundred dollars.

I'm going to guess TIMING BELT. Fairly common with this engine. Thankfully, they are a "NON-interference" motor so it didn't do any damage when the belt snapped. Just need to replace it. Should cost around $300-$400 depending on where you are. Good luck!

You could, theoretically, weld the centre differential closed so that it acts as a locked unit, however you'd still end up with drive train losses. Might be easier to swap back to your 3S-GE's box...

check the Transmission Speed Sensor. sound like a bad ( TSS).

Hope this can hep.

it might be the ignition switch i would have to say from experience. i would check it out. the is the main switch for all the relays

It could be the valve cover gasket that is out

air filtre also make sure your oil level is good check first thing in morning before starting car
to much oil can cause it to smoke

the hole is there to let you know that the water pump is defective, you need a new water pump, normal this hole is filled with wax, when the pump over heats due to the bearings wearing out the wax melts,

My experience with Bosch ignition system (found on european cars) is the spark control is sent by the ignition module. The ignition module has to receive an input usually from a crankshaft sensor. This is usually near the crankshaft pulley on many cars. I am currently working on a 04 Toyota RAV4 and it has exactly that. If your sensor wiring gets loose or a bad wire then the computer won't signal for spark. This may not be your problem but it sounds like it probably is.
(By the way on my Alfa Romeo it is a sensor around the bell housing that senses the teeth on the flywheel) Good luck!