20 Most Recent 1990 Toyota Camry - Page 2 Questions & Answers

for better result download the pdf file http://www.reliable-store.com/products/toyota-camry-service-repair-manual-1987-1988-1989-1990-1991

Hey Penny, there could be a bunch of things going on , try disconnecting the battery ,negative first then positive and let it sit for a few min. 10 or so then reconnect and see if every thing goes back to normal ,do you have any check engine lights on ? or stored codes in the OBD computer.?

is the timing back to the factory setup? sometimes if the timing is still off from what it should be, then it can cause problems like poor acceleration or running at high idle.

TOYOTA CAMRY SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL 1988 1989 1990 1991 DOWNLOAD for the easy solution download the pdf file

Check fuel pump and filter,is it a camry or a truck..

window relay switch if none of the window switches are working. note:if you have door switches and console switch (you probably have 2 relays, locations may vary)

Replace the motor that moves the belt in the track.

There is no adjustment on the hydraulic clutch. If it is not working properly either bleed out the air in the system or replace the clutch master cylinder.

Most common problem is old/defective distributor cap and ignition wires. Use a spray bottle with water and spray distributor cap and ignition wires with vehicle running. If they are causing your problem you will see arcing from the wires and the vehicle will stumble/stall when the cap/wires get wet

No damage will occur. This is a non-interference engine so all you will have to do is make sure the timing marks on the cams and crank are set properly.

You are right, it could be almost anything. The first thing would be to check the trouble code readout to see if that gives a clue. My 94 did this twice at different times. The first was fractured contacts under the base for the EFI main relay. Thus the fuel and spark would sputter on and off. Older Camrys develop this fault commonly. You can see it when you turn on the ignition, (but don't start it) and the trouble light on the dash does not show up The second time the ECU (computer) itself had become faulty. The car would start, then not, then run rough. It is not an expensive repair with a ECU from the wreckers, and it can be tested on a diagnostic machine.

Hi Paula, As both the battery and alternator have been replaced, there are only few remaining reasons why the alternator will not charge. Make sure of the socket connection being fitted correctly and that there is a good connection on each of the connectors inside the connector. Check and make sure the earth earth connection between the battery and the engine is correct and that both ends are tightened correctly. Inspect the 'Alt' fuse in the fuse holder and also the fusible link. Also make sure that the belt is tight. Regards John

you got to make sure you putting it back in the same way you took the old 1 out. that or you got the wrong cylinder. match it up

Best plugs to use are the manufacturers. Found this to be true on my Toyota 33re engine and various Fords. Also read over the years tests and reviews and they all came to the same conclusion- OEM plugs (and brake pads) work best.

Hi Mark ! Why are you looking for a repair book since there is a large technical information about-not only for your vehicle - on the Internet -Google- and autodata information. Just try and see.

Could mean a stretched timing chain or belt.

Check the timing belt is tight.