20 Most Recent 1987 Toyota Tercel Liftback Questions & Answers

If you want to solve your problem, click on the link I attached https://www.reliable-store.com/products/toyota-tercel-1983-1998-workshop-service-repair-manual

using a mega on rectifiers can damage them you should take the alternator to an auto electrician for a proper bench test

sounds like the cold start injector

try unplugging it

here is a general picture of the location .HERE

I found this on ebay.

just need what engine is there??? alldata.com has it. look.

toyata post are vast , big sales, 100s millions of cars... on the road no engine option stated, so no real help here. but id never do any SOHC or DOHC , guessing. not me.,I know better. why do I, easy, some engine are INTERFERENCE. and those get kid gloves, ASK? got a book must be a Haynes/clymer/chilton rag? I use those to start fires. they are filled with lies, they mix 1 engine facts with 3 more others. all a travsity. why cheap out? why not get a real FSM or login to alldata.com, so you get the TRUTH. NO ENGINE NO JOY, sorry !!!! what engine, what country, USA> if in USA< say, my car was sold new in USA. ill answer only for there, as other countries use even MORE engines here we go, id hate to see you scrap a car just for no FSM. "factory service manual" 87 is a very old car, some even have carbs back then, here, very old. Generation 3 Tercel. in usa "12-valve engine which featured a variable venturi carburetor and later models with EFI." ( a big transistion year) quote wiki) 1.5L 3E 78 hp (58 kW) I4 the 3E engine was here i USA, for EPA reasons.... some have 3A engines.. so.....???? our engine page shows, just 1 belt change method and how to lock the cam, with only a monkey wrench.(adj.spanner0 has all the photos and steps, i can post these CR photo but here are the steps. Removal

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the radiator.
3. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the drive belts.
4. Remove the rocker arm (valve) cover.
5. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to the TDC position on the compression stroke for No. 1 cylinder. Insure that the crankshaft marks align at zero and that the rocker arms on No. 1 cylinder are loose.
6. Remove the timing belt covers using the procedures described earlier in this section.
7. Remove the timing belt guide.
8. If reusing the belt, make matchmarks on the belt and both pulleys showing the exact placement of the belt. Mark an arrow on the belt showing its direction of rotation.
9. Loosen the timing belt idler pulley mount bolt, push it as far left as it will go and temporarily tighten the bolt. This will relieve tension from the belt.
10. Carefully slip the timing belt off the pulleys.
11. Remove the idler pulley mount bolt, pulley and return spring.

Do not disturb the position of the camshaft or the crankshaft during removal.

1. Use an adjustable wrench mounted on the flats of the camshaft to hold the cam from moving. Loosen the center bolt in the camshaft sprocket and remove the sprocket.
2. Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of cracking or deterioration. Pay particular attention to the area where each tooth or cog attaches to the backing of the belt. If the belt shows signs of damage, check the contact faces of the pulleys for possible burrs or scratches.
3. Check the idler pulley by holding it in your hand and spinning it. It should rotate freely and quietly. Any sign of grinding or abnormal noise indicates a need to replace the pulley.
4. Check the free length of the tension spring. Correct length is 1.512 in. (38.4mm) measured at the inside faces of the hooks. A spring which has stretched during use will not apply the correct tension to the pulley; replace the spring.
5. Test the tension of the spring. It should have 8 lbs. (3.83 kg) of tension at 1.976 in. (50.2mm) of length. If in doubt, replace the spring.

INSTALL

1. Align the pin of the camshaft with the hole in the sprocket, then install the camshaft timing belt sprocket. Tighten the center bolt to specification.
2. Before reinstalling the belt, double check that the crank and camshafts are exactly in their correct positions. The alignment mark on the end of the camshaft bearing cap should show through the small hole in the camshaft pulley and the small mark on the crankshaft timing belt pulley should align with the mark on the oil pump.
3. Reinstall the timing belt idler pulley and the tension spring. Pry the pulley to the left as far as it will go and temporarily tighten the retaining bolt. This will hold the pulley in its loosest position.
4. Install the timing belt, observing the matchmarks made earlier. Make sure the belt is fully and squarely seated on the upper and lower pulleys.
5. Loosen the retaining bolt for the timing belt idler pulley and allow it to tension the belt.
6. Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crank clockwise two full revolutions from TDC to TDC. Insure that each timing mark realigns exactly.

Always turn the crankshaft clockwise! (or risk bottom bolt gets loose)

1. Tighten the timing belt idler pulley retaining bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
2. Measure the timing belt deflection, look for 0.24-0.28 in. (6-7mm) of deflection at 4.4 pounds (2 kg) of pressure. If the deflection is not correct, readjust the idler pulley.
3. Remove the bolt from the end of the crankshaft.
4. Install the valve cover.
5. Install the timing belt guide onto the crankshaft and install the timing belt covers.
6. Install air cleaner assembly and the accessory belts.
7. Adjust the accessory belts and install the radiator.
8. Refill the radiator. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Plus 10 photos. all from the orig. factory FSM , buy one used on fleabay? holy mackrel, i get the 1st google hit here, I get: the same alldata page at autozoned. i googled like this "toyota 3E engine cam timing" amazing, if you know what engine you have google finds anything. all for free, just finger pressing... http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280051e70 does this help if really savvy? i discover, interference or not , first. (or blow up a good motor) id log in to alldata.com and look, not use store rags (chiltions) not web rumor. or buy the FSM amazing, dirt cheap and old here http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Toyota-TERCEL-Service-Manual-/200715146856?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item2ebb8e1668&vxp=mtr

Check the distributor cap and rotor first then plugs and wires, vacuum hoses for leaks and the fuel filter

Is your key the coded/chip kind? That could be out of code.

Vacuum leak somewhere. Take some carb cleaner or wd40 and spray it around all the ends of the vacuum hoses. If you spray an end and the idle speed gets even higher, then that's the hose with the leak. That's where i'd start. If you can't find a leak, the idle air controller could be messed up and making your car run lean

with the engine OFF, look at the belt(s) going to the alternator. it is probably loose. if so, then it is likely that the idler/ tensioner pulley is bad (the clicking is the bearings inside the pulley rattling around inside the pulley wheel) the clue is clicking + charge light ON.

A common problem for this model is dust from a dull chain getting into the fuel system and blocking the check valves. Recommend checking with a local dealer like www.arcolawn.com to get a new carburetor since prices dropped last year.

good luck

I would double check the muffler side of the piston and make sure it is not scored up like this:
Remove the carburetor and make sure the intake side of the piston is not worn (missing more than 10% of the machining marks )like this:


If you do not see these failures and you have good spark the carburetor is the problem. see a local dealer like www.arcolawn.com for parts and support.