20 Most Recent 1986 Toyota Pickup 4WD Questions & Answers

If I am not mistaken there are two. One under the drivers side dash. The other is under the hood. I think that there are two fuses up under the passengerside dash that go to something, but I cant remember off the top of my head. If I had a wiring schematic in front of me it would help. What kind of problem are you experiencing?

Cheapest way would be to really look for a locksmith that can either reproduce your original keys manually(handmade) or through machine that can regenerate your original keys otherwise you'll have to replace new sets of door keys locking mechanism and new set of ignition switch that may be adopted to your steering columns locking devices.

Have you had the battery tested?

try here Ford Workshop Manuals

Take the transfer case apart and find out what is broke.

Your noisy throw out bearing probably came apart, changing the distance you have to move the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch.

Replace starter

ALTERNATOR PROBLEM /THERMOSTAT PROBLEM

red fuses 10 amp ,blue 15 amp 25 amp yellow and 30 amp a buff colour so check teh 25 and 30 amp fuses to find the feed ,pull the feed off the fuel pump and check for a short again

Is your ac fully charged?if not, your compressor won't lock up and engage...

BAD RELAYS

have you tried to find a manual for your car at the library. they do have an auto section that has manuals. you may have to go to more than one library. this way you will have the diagram in front of you any time you work on the car.

if it wont start then the battery is dead from not charging is my guess. so now the question is why wont it charge. that's simple the alternator is not working properly and will need to be rebuilt or replaced. and they are not cheap. you will need to remove the alternator and take it out to get tested. my guess its going to need to be replaced. advance napa autozone and many other parts stores have the equipment to test it. then you need to charge the battery and it should start once you get it all back together. if you cant do the work. a shop will do it all and it will need to be towed if it wont run.

Get someone to try and lift the bonnet whilst you pull the cable and see if that helps!.

You may have an issue with the alternator going bad on you. Have it checked.

I've seen from 500 to 1500 RPM in all the manuals I've been through, depending on the year and application (truck/car). In personal experience, 650-800 RPM is acceptable warm operation range. This will also depend on elevation. Will go up to 1200-1500 RPM for cold starting. I live at about 2000ft and my '86 Pickup 22RE idles at 725-750 like a top after about a 3-4 min warm up @ 1250 RPM if it's cold (<45ish).

Start with the fuse. If good, then check the wire. It is a single brown wire, horn is grounded at it's attachment point to the body, between the front grille and radiator on the driver's side. Starting there is easiest. Use a test light at the connector clip while pushing the horn button. If the circuit is good, but no sound, you need a new horn. Often times, wear and tear will cause the clip to fall off the blade contact. If the circuit is no good, pull the center plug from the steering wheel and check the circular contact ring and tab. The ring can build up gunk and also wear through, then not make proper contact with the horn button contact tab.

bad battery cables with a bad connections. too much current draw I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/christpher_f760d0f18f8eedc3