a garage mechanic would move the tires to see if there is any slop in the tierod. and some times its easy to see or feel. the parts you can get at any parts store and prices vary on brand and quialtiy. as for labor most garages charge by the hour and it will take an hour to do both sides and then you will need to get the car aligned. my suggestion is if you take it to an alignment shop and they don't need to be done they will tell you. at least if they know what they are doing. some shops will do better work then others. when you find a good one or hear of one. try that one. some shops will inspect at a small price depending if you don't need an alignment. and most will change the parts and do the alignment and I suggest getting the old parts and see the wear for yourself. some can even show you before the work is started. but some shops don't allow customers in the garage so each is different.
on Fixya you wont to learn swaps, really?
why not a real forum with sections on swaps.
like (random)
toytotanation (google that or google "toyota forums" bingo?
open the driver's side door and look on the side of the dash. If it's not there, check the passenger's side on the center console. If not there, check under the hood.
very good, that is a bad blower block resistor.
(or wires fell off, etc)
this speed resistor on all cars is mounted to the blower case
(there the blower blades are) its AIR cooled is why.
According to Don r : "The relays are in the fusebox under the hood. There's a fusebox on the driver's side kick panel, there's another one behind the change drawer on the left end of the dash and there's another fuse and relay box behind a panel on the passenger side below the dash. Chilton's Auto Repair manual will show you these. Look in your owner's Manual too. " According to mtran2988: "So I know this sounds very silly, but I had this problem for a while as well. What I did to fix it for a while, was open the fuse box in the car (under the steering wheel) and remount the fuse for the power lock. After that all the door's locks started working again. Like I said, i know it sounds very silly... but that's what I did and it started working. I feel like trying this might save people some hours. Mind you, I don't have very great technical knowledge of the mechanics of a car.. just a persevering DIY'er." I hope that helps!
all engine have this number
all engines in a different spot or different by COUNTRY (LAWS)
so, no engine stated, nor country, FAIL.
the FSM covers this on page 1
factory service manual.
if luckly , alldata.com has this.
log in and read;.
Gen 9 car
E120? or 130?>
now the line up ,just gen 9 , engine line up ( showing many there are)
1.4L I44ZZ-FE
1.5L I41NZ-FE
1.6L I43NZ-FE
1.6L I41ZR-FE
1.6L I43ZZ-FE
1.8L I41ZZ-FE
1.8L I42ZZ-GE
1.4L I41ND-TVD-4D diesel
2.0L I41CD-FTVD-4D diesel
posted 100s of times, not one person
ever disclosed, country of engine
nor opened hood, looked up , saw , EPA sticker and engine size in plain view. not one.
cars really are not simple , and 10x that on a world scale.
sorry
all radios work if not OEM and bricked (code secret lost)
they sell an adaptor for your car that fits the stock harness, at
all autostores and even walfart.
buy that ,read the instructions, easy peasy city,
the phyiscal , i refuse to guess, only electronics.
no my answer, dont buy that $500 PCM yet.
the Gauge fuse , see bottom left, above. runs lots of things,
the FSM covers this, fully 100%
it runs the Flasher module, the ECM, the integration module (BCM like) that runs interior lighting and many things off the IM.
if the fuse only blows, while blinking , id inspect all 4 corner lamps
id check the wires there and then replace all 4 lamps. if you
dont know how to bench test a lamp. then just replace them.
Gauge , (funny huh) runs the Alternator, if it shorts, boom the Gauge fuse blows. as you can see finding a short is not easy,
you never said how soon it blows. so,,,,, if quicky, id run it
with no alt connected. rear plug IG Plug pulled. do so for no more
that about 15minutes, the battery will drain fast (no head lights please,or fans for heater, no electrical things on, flashers on for sure.)
see???
there are 30 pages, to see all IG1 power feed wires.
i didnt try to find them all.
but that is my point, if you dont have the book or alldata.com login
then all this is pure wild speculation and guessing.
I did this for a living, so ,know the ropes.
once I have this information, i then use my ammeter to find it.
see a area MASTER here, do that.
Duane
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZrCrBx4uFY
and chris.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5FJDgcdii8
in your case you know what fuse blows. (stated wrong)
and with that , fact i can attach my ammeter, and the pull
modules to find which one has the active short.
in the case if the blinker module is passing excessive current
I then drop off the lamps loads from the flasher module
if that shows that my short is gone then the lamps are shorted.
i can even measure all 4 lamp wire feed to read this short with my ammeter and my CB.
using this.
http://www.fixkick.com/tools/25100B.jpg
http://www.fixkick.com/tools/25100.jpg
below.
this the red fuse below is GAUGE. the module on the right is the Flasher module.