20 Most Recent 1998 Toyota Camry - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I think you should make quite certain at the mechanics' that it is the struts and mounts knocking, and not the lower main ball joints. However worn strut top mounts are the most likely cause.You don't say where you are but in the US $1000 should get you new struts and mounts both sides, albeit not a top name brand, and a necessary wheel alignment also.You should not just replace only one side as that will degrade the handling and steering of the car.

heater core or heater hoses cheap parts are from the wreckers /junk yards

Diagrama de encendido toyota camry 1998 3.0

1-4 , 3-2

First thing i would do is try having the transmission serviced. New filter and fluid. If it is to far gone after the service it may need rebuilt. The price depends on where you have it done. It may be cheaper to buy a rebuilt one from jasper engines and transmission than having a shop rebuild yours.

Should all be the same fuze. Check the bulbs and whether the harness to the rear lights that usually runs through the trunk hasn't been pulled.

Just remove the mechanism (solenoid) that locks the shifter in the console. Its not cost effective to repair.

It could be the immobiliser but the anti-theft device usually prevents some essential engine ingredient from working and so prevents the engine being started. Sometimes more than a single thing is disabled. The mechanic would surely have detected if the spark or injector pulse was absent. Often there is a visual indication of whether the immobiliser is disarmed via a flashing led. The vehicle handbook should give details about this. You are in fact saying the engine is starting but cutting out immediately. I wonder if it keeps running if the key isn't released from the start position. I wonder if it cuts off when the key is released from the start position and it returns to the on position? If this is so it might indicate an ignition switch problem . If it is wired to boost the spark during cranking it could also indicate a broken wire, fusebox or relay problems. A wiring diagram would be necessary... To take it further the spark, injector pulse and fuel pressure would need monitoring during the starting of the engine and the moment it cuts out in order to discover what is absent and then use the wiring diagram to trace it backwards to find a reason. The immobiliser key transponder chip is quite robust and draws no power from the fob or plip battery. If the immobiliser is giving trouble it could be an expensive repair but the alternative is to have the engine management ECU decoded so the car would then start from the key as in the old days...

possibly coil pack

I'd speculate the ECM has failed. These symptoms appeared in my 95 V6 Camry, and at first we thought it was one or more bad injectors, then we replaced the whole ignition lead set, and eventually it was a fault in the ECM. It was found by substitution.BTW to be certain if you try the ECM, get one from the same body Camry with the same engine and transmission. The ECM programming is peculiar to all those.The only other thing I can think of is an intermittent contact in the base of the EFI main relay. These are known to develop that fault..

Thats default position and means switch is worn or blend door has issues

any light on dash?

is it manual transmission?? sound like clutch slipping