2006 Peugeot 604 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi, I have a 2.0HDI Expert which was doing the exact same thing as yours, blowing thick black smoke, sluggish and loss of power on gradients, a hissing sound and surging. I replaced the air flow meter but that didn't help. I was told to replace the turbo but a turbo expoert told me not to as it would blow white smoke if it was faulty. I was then told to replace the injectors but a diagnostic test showed them to be functioning fine. I was then told to look at the intercooler which had thick sludge at the lower left pipe. I replaced it today - Sunday 12th July and it is now driving like a new van. It now pulls me up gradients with ease in 4th and 5th instead of having to drop gear to get to the top. I got a replacement from Euro Car Parts for £147 inc VAT. To tell if this is your problem, look through the gaps in the lower section of the bumper at what looks like the radiator and look for sludge over the inside of the bumper and all over the pipe where it joins the back of the radiator (intercooler). Also open the bonnet and look down behind the grille for the same sludge. Hope this sorts it for you. Barry, Newtownards, Northern Ireland.

Try blanking off the EGR valve where it mounts on the exhaust manifild, they dont do much usefull but are unreliable and leak ehaist gasses into the inlet, also they take pressure off the torbo leading to over fuelling.

Sounds like you could have a blockage or thermostat in backwards blockage to the radiator or the head gasket was pinched while putting it back in and it's just overheating real bad having it come out through the reservoir tells me that the cap is blowing off steam usually that happens when you don't have enough circulation through the radiator I don't know what condition the water pumps in or what not but check those things first make sure that you have flow going through the radiator never open your radiator cap when it is hot like that you'll have to let it cool down and don't add cold water after does cooldow and don't add cold water after does cool down to a hot engine you can crack the block let it cool down then protect yourself open the radiator cap very slowly look inside and if your radiator is empty after it's cooled down you can add some water first because if it's leaking you don't want to put coolant on the ground being as it is poisonous and can kill animals with one sip and not very good for humans either, you can feel about half way up with water then start the engine and then continue to add water until you have waterfall in the radiator now this point do not rev the motor just leave the cap open and look inside wear safety glasses it'll be cold for a little while and it starts to heat up you can see if it starts to flow through the radiator cuz it would be going through the bottom of the radiator into the motor through the motor and will return to the radiator at the top so you can see the water flowing by then you know at least that you have water pump working and that the flow is flowing through the block and the thermostat now if it starts to get hot right away and it's not flowing and starts to boil over new thermostats not opening in your head gaskets probably toast because sometimes when you put water back in the thermostat won't open you think that you have a full radiator and you close the cap and start driving and then the thermostat opens and now all the sudden you don't have a full radiator anymore and starts to heat up right away so check those things always be safe and good luck

This sounds like it is a fuel supply problem NOT an exhaust issue. It will be worth you getting a good garage to check the whole fuel system. "Back firing" is a loud bang caused by too much fuel passing all the way through the engine and exploding when it hits the hot exhaust. It is NOT very common in modern cars so get a good mechanic to check the car.

get the factory manual from the given link and easily fix the problem http://toolsnyou.com/

auxillary where might this be?

Have it scanned for error code. Idle Air system may foul up. Coolant temperature sensor giving wrong readings will confuse the ECU. It may use 'warm' setting for cold starting, thus fuel would be lean. Ideally it should use 'cold' setting which provides richer air/fuel mixture.

use a scanner to reset the CPU program as it may be corrupted from the battery change.

Black smoke is an indication of too much fuel-running rich-in the cylinders. The air/fuel mixture is way off-too much fuel. Possible causes are cylinder misfires (runs and idles rough, a noticeable miss), leaking fuel injectors, or a failed fuel pressure regulator. Take off the vacuum line to the regulator (on the fuel rail?)-if there is evidence of gas in the vacuum line, the regulator has failed and excess gas is being sucked into the engine through the vacuum line. You should take a fuel pressure reading to check pressure against the specification for your car. Also possible that the fuel metering is correct, but the air being supplied to the cylinders is lacking. A clogged air filter could cause that, but you would also experience a rough running condition. Since you didn't mention that, I would think the fuel metering is wrong-too much gas.

Top off coolant. If thermostat and coolant are over 2 years only then you should replace them.

hi the first thing you need to check is the fuse in the fuse box if this is ok then the chances are the brake light switch needs replacing or it may have come loos what you need to do is get down on your knees so you can get a close look at the brake pedal then if you follow the brake pedal all the way to the top just before it goes through the bulk head into the engine you will then see a switch attatched to the very top of the brake pedal it will have 2 or 3 wires coming from it so check if this is fitted correctly also you could remove it and press the switch by hand and then see if the brake lights work that way.

If they do then try fitting it again and you may be able to adjust it slightly so check this if on the other hand it still dont work then you need to get it replaced.

Let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

up behind your dash follow from your engine bay through the bulk head

Had the same-problem with the peaugot 807 giving out black smoke, I was fueling at morrisons regular was told to change petrol pump so I start using shells and the black smoke stopped compeletely. Try using a different petrol pump if that dont work than take it to the workshop.

which is standard or the best motor oil for HDI?

it will be your low volume pump in the tank

i have a new van but need to remove dent in bumper

quality of products used. these cars really do work better with manufacturer parts. 1 other thing they can try is dot 4 or even motorcraft high performance dot4 brake fluid. i would use this on HUMMER H1 because of the high heat situation and weight of vehicle. if all brackets have been lubricated properly, it comes down to quality of parts.

i presume its a diesel

i reckon its the glow plugs get them checked i am sure a new set will cure your problem

Deep joy. This can be a royal pain. The only way I have successfully done this is to put a battery charger on the car overnight, locked, and then when the battery is sitting at about 15v unlock it with the remote - when the lazy deadlock is stirred into action. It can take a couple of attempts. It really is incredibly difficult to get to. Otherwise, its most easily a case of breaking the unit...though you could try taking the leads off and applying 18v to the solonoid directly. That was my next move, but never needed to get there. You can however stop the deadlock from locking, by cutting one of the wires, test using a multimeter which one is live when you arm the alarm/deadlock the car. Thats also the one to apply 18v to if you want to.

EGR is located at the back right hand side of the engine follow the silver pipe from inlet manifold , back and where it joins at the back of the lump , thats the egr!! 2x 8 mm bolts hold it in place + 5 mm allen screw if present secures a braket for wiring