20 Most Recent 2006 Peugeot 604 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I do not understand the question sorry.

check charge of battery......put a volt meter across it ,,,should be above 12.3 volts.
2.check to see if alternator is working correctly........put 1 probe on the of alternator and the other probe to the body of the alternator....the reading should be 14v with the car engine running .if not then your alternator needs replacing.
3.with the car running probe your battery...should be reading above 14v.....this means alternator is working .
4.personally i think your battery is not holdng its charge,i would renew it,they cost

usually 1 of 2 things-lack of lubrication or a foreign object in the intake.at turbo speeds,the smallest object will wreak havoc.

hi.you have a red button/switch under your hood,try to push this down.this switch is mountet to cut the engine if the car tilt´s over

no i dont think so ,more than likely its ERG valve ,thats the valve that open and allows exhaust gas into teh inlet manifold ,pull the rubber vac pipe off of it and try that next before you spend any cash .If it wasnt smoking before you changed the turbo then it shouldnt smoke now unless you have a faulty ERG valve or you have managed to manually open the operating mechanism and after my joey doing the same thing on a citreon (same engine) and giving me a proverbial headache till i noticed what he had done he had fitted the operating arm on the side of the movement so it was open when it should have been closed ,boy did he get the proverbial verbal ,a so called apprentice trained peugeot mechanic ?? he hasnt lived it down yet and i wont let him because he winds me up about the time i put the oil in and no sump plug .Or the time i the phone rang and i didnt tighten the wheel nuts.

its in series in the exhaust system, but check you have particulate fluid in the vehicle first before replacing the filter
regards
roger

Borrow one with known code, start and unplug.

it sounds like the catalytic convertor is blocked

at this age i would reccomend using semi synthetic 10/40 or even 20/50 as the mileage gets higher it starts to use oil.so using a thicker oil when cold helps.

it may require an ecu upgrade which requires a trip to the main dealers im afraid

if this helps let me know
cheers
big mike

Junk it. Unless your that attached to the car, it's not worth it.

This could be coming in from a few places. As well as checking seams, i would suggest checking your floor pans... Many times rust will slowly eat thru the floor pans, and allows water to be soaked up... Get the car up in the air ( or climb on under it). Tap on the "floor" from underneath where the rear Foot area would be. If it seems rusty or weak or you can see visable damage. this could be your culprit, even if it isn't rusted through completely. This is a very very common problem with cars in my area , as I live in northern USA. Alot of snow = alot of salt on roads = alot of rusty floor pans :)

This could also be coming from your B - Beams. When your tires displace water. it splashes them against the inside wheel well and tire guard.. Under that guard lies your car body. If this has rust in /on it that has penetrated all the way through, the water is getting thrown "into" the body panels, which is leaking through to your seats. Hope this gave you a little more information on places to look.

it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer but typically it is recommended to be replaced between 60K - 100K miles. A visual inspection of the belt for cracks, missing teeth, or parting will also help you determine if the belt needs to be replaced.

you might have a blown fuse, or maybe a short circuit sometimes the circut goes out and the heater and all else will stop working.